EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Jonathan Siegrist does Kinder Cakes 9a+

"Intense and very physical roof climbing from the depths of the Skull Cave. A significant step up from D-Mouth. This was my main goal for the summer and an excellent challenge for me. Rifle summer camp is in full effect with a slew of good friends always around! Respect to JK, this one is brutal."

New Boulder and Lead score to be tested in Japan

IFSC reports that the combined scoring system for the Boulder & Lead World Cup in Moriaka will be modified. In the European Championship, 3 points were given to the first zone and 6 points to the second zone. Now, instead, 5 and 10 points will be given to the first and second zone. In reality, t…

Silence 9c tutorial by Ghisolfi

Adam Ondra started a trend by commenting his climbing videos but now Stefano Ghisolfi takes it to a new detailed level. The holds and sequences on Silence (9c) just look amazing. If somebody could pull me up and I could try to hang-dog some of the easier sequences high up in the cave, it could turn …

MORE NEWS

Honour and Glory 8c+ (9a) by Mike Doyle (44)

Honour and Glory 8c+ (9a) by Mike Doyle (44)

Mike Doyle, who has previously done two 8c+ routes, has sent Honour and Glory (9a) in Echo Canyon, giving it a personal 8c+ grade. "What a fight to the finish! I'm really stoked to have managed to take it to the top the first time hitting the big flake! An endurance monster and masterpiece. Found really good beta (double kneepads) through the bottom. IMO 8c to the flake then 8a+/8b to the summit. That can take it up a grade but there's probably still better beta to be found. Lots of options and I really loved that about this route." The picture is from his Insta

Mike did his first 8c+, by the FA of the classical Lucifer (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY) back in 2007.

Cabane au Canada 9a (8c+) by Thomas Joannes

Thomas Joannes, who previously has done five 8c+, has done Cabane au Canada (9a) in Rawyl, giving it a personal 8c+ grade as it only took him three tries. Adam Ondra onsighted it in 2013 and last year he updated his scorecard by calling it 8c+. Thomas comments, "Pure line, 100% competition climbing style. 🙂 Soft 8c+ in my opinion."

The 27-year-old has been an active competition climber until 2018. Seven times he has made the final in a Lead World Cup including once being #3.

Der heilige Gral 9a by Maxi Karrer

Der heilige Gral 9a by Maxi Karrer

Maxi Karrer has done Der heilige Gral (9a) in Frankenjura. It is one of the longest routes in Frankenjura following a big archway and everyone has given it five stars in the 8a database.

"I started thinking about the route when I began my studies in Erlangen 6 years ago. From there it is just a 30 minutes drive to the crag but I never felt strong enough to climb a 9a. Over the years I could climb some 8c routes and 2 years ago the FA of Laktatsturm (8c+) was my first 8c+. From that time the route “Der heilige Gral” was back in my mind!

After checking out the moves I was sure that it was possible for me. In the next season 2021, the crag was often very wet! This is one of the main problems while trying the route. So no chance for me to climb it. This year, after my exam, I felt good and had the time to try it again. The route was dry and with a very fast send of I bleed black (8c+) 3 weeks before, I was super motivated! The route starts with some easy moves in the overhang. After that, there is a hard mono section which is followed by a crazy no-hand rest. From this point, you have to climb 8c to the top. All in all, I needed around 10 sessions doing it. For sure one of the best lines in Frankenjura 😊."

Margo 8B FA by Jane Švecová

Margo 8B FA by Jane Švecová

Jane Švecová (Vincourkova), who did her first 8B+ this spring, has made the FA of Margo (8B) in Moravský kras, video.

"I was originally trying Janja SD (8B+) from Martin Stráník. Unfortunately, I couldn't reach most of the holds and the major parts of the moves were impossible for me. While my husband kept trying Janja I decided to entertain myself and kept trying it, I found a completely different way for the crux. The first three to four moves are the same, but then I continued with the moves further up in the roof, so I decided to make a new boulder from it. I've been struggling with one, I would say, the crux move, but then Lucie Hrozová visited me and she came out with a very different beta which suited me even better. Then there was a really hard foot exchange which took me most of the time, to do it.

It is crazy to say but even in the summer, there could be close to five-degree celsius by the boulder, so for many days, I was struggled with cold, or with a wet rock because of the moisture coming from the cave below the boulder. On day eight or so I finally saw some progress. Then the weather was really poor and I had a lot of work, so I was just hang boarding a lot. After a month I got time to get back, and we came to the crag, I warmed up in some easy boulders and sent the project first go. I didn't expect it, everything was just perfect, I just kept going and all of the sudden, I was at the top. So yeah, it was very fast send that day, I decided calling it Margo as it is as well an iconic climber as Janja and the style of this climb is similar to what you can see from Margo, for-example in LaRambla 🙂"

Four 8B+ ticks by Yannick Flohé in Magic Wood

Four 8B+ ticks by Yannick Flohé in Magic Wood

Yannick Flohé, who has been Top-7 in all eight WC's he has done in 2022, has been on a quick trip to Magic Wood where he did four 8B+ boulder problems. In the 8a ranking game he is #4 and that is also his position in the IFSC Lead and Boulder rankings 2022.

"It was my first time in Magic and I really enjoyed it. The first three days started with rain so I checked out Ill Thrill (8B+) and did The Never Ending Story (8B+) and Power of Now (8B+) which stay dry except for the last hold. Power of Now only took a couple of tries but Ill trill felt hard for me because it’s so technical with lots of heel hooks. On my last day, I made a quick ascent of Believe in two (8B+). It’s a rarely repeated 8B+ that shares the same start as Steppenwolf. I also tried In search of time loss in the Darkness cave but It was too hot to try hard. But luckily I’ll come back straight after the Koper WC in two weeks 😄."

Four 8As by Camilla Moroni

Four 8As by Camilla Moroni

Camilla Moroni, who recently was #9 in both Lead and Boulder in the Euro Championship, has done four 8As while on a three day trip to Silvretta.

"After the European Championship in Munich I went three days in Silvretta for a little break before my last international competition of the year, the Lead WC in Koper. Since my trip lasted only three days I decided not to try too hard boulders and to enjoy the new place. It was really good climbing some beautiful lines at 2000 metres surrounded by mountains. During this little break, I managed to send Diamond Nuts (8A), Pretty Belinda (8A), Shining (8A) and Niviuk (8A). I climbed the last two boulders on the same day but I had already tried them on the first day. In the next month probably I will come back to Magic Wood to send some old projects of the last year. And this winter I'd like to send some hard boulders in Ticino like Heritage (8B+)."

Sofa Surfer 8A (+) by Lilli Kiesgen

Sofa Surfer 8A (+) by Lilli Kiesgen

Lilli Kiesgen has done Sofa Surfer 8A (+) in Magic Wood. "Our trip was only eight days long and we had two rainy days. On this trip, I was motivated to try hard stuff for the first time. I checked out many different boulders. On Sofa Surfer the single moves felt doable in my first session. I came back two days later and it went down pretty fast☺️ I think the style and the moves suited me very well."