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Petrichor 8C by Vadim Timonov

Petrichor 8C by Vadim Timonov

Vadim Timonov has done the first repeat of Dave Graham's Petrichor 8C in Rocklands, in just one session. The video of Graham shows that Vadim is just about to start climbing upside down in a totally unique sequence. Video is coming up in a couple of weeks. (c) Juliet Leonova

"I used 90% beta by Dave. Feels like only one beta for that boulder. It's hard for me to talk about the grade right now. It seemed to me that it is definitely more difficult than Amandla 8B+ and Shakey warrior which I have tried in the last days. I will try a few more 8Cs and I can use their example more accurately grading Petrichor. So far I can say that this is not the most difficult boulder in this grade, but it may be 8C anyhow. 5 stars qualitywise!"

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La force tranquille 8C by Simon Lorenzi

La force tranquille 8C by Simon Lorenzi

Simon Lorenzi reports with an Insta video that he has done La force tranquille 8C in Magic Wood, in just five sessions. Next is Power of now which he was close on already during the first session. The 24-year-old won the Lead Youth World Champion in 2016 and the year after he did Action Directe 9a. Later he focused on comps but without any good results. Then suddenly in 2021, after he had done the FA of The Big Island 9A, he has been 7 - 12 - 5 in the three last Boulder WCs.

How can you explain your sudden extreme progress in the Boulder WCs?
I totally changed my way of training and focused on the technical, tactical and mental aspects this year. I almost did no specific physical training this year to focus on those others aspects. I'm working a lot more on slabs than before, I do a lot of simulation of competition and I'm working with a sport psychologist.

Interestingly, the 168 cm tall says that next is Power of Now 8C which he was close on already during the first session (in spite of not focusing on physical power training :)

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Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a by Stefan Scherz (19)

Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a by Stefan Scherz (19)

Stefan Scherz, who won Euro Youth events in both Lead and Bouldering in 2019, has done his third 9a, Kein Licht Kein Schatten in Ötztal. "Best I've done so far. 4th ascent. Took me quite some time and nerves. Felt harder than anything I've done before." (c) Insta

How was the process taking it down and what is next?
I’ve been trying this route on & off for about a year now. The first few sessions I was on it, I tried the beta of Jakob Schubert which felt hard but definitely doable! Later, I switched beta in two different sections and I felt even more confident to send it. Winter hit Austria and I spent two desperate sessions trying with numb fingertips but realized I’ve to wait until spring to send it. It took me two sessions this year but finally, with good conditions, I was able to send it! Now, WC’s in Chamonix and Briançon are the next goals.

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Ain't no heaven for a thug 8A+ by Alex Puccio

Ain't no heaven for a thug 8A+ by Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio has done her 73rd 8A+, Ain't no heaven for a thug in Wild Basin. Picture form her Insta, where she also comments. "This roof is pretty fun! Kinda like an outdoor gym. 😛".

Including also 8 8B+' and 39 8B's, the 32-year-old has the most impressive female tick list. When it comes to competitions, she has got one silver in the World Championship, two World Cup wins and eleven Nationals. In spite of this, she has had some bad luck with several serious injuries over the years.

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Pressure drop 8A by Pleun Frank (18)

Pressure drop 8A by Pleun Frank (18)

Pleun Frank has done her first 8A, Pressure drop in Zillertal. The 18-year-old is from the Netherlands and has only been climbing outside a handful of times before. Last summer she did three 7C's.

"I initially did not come to Austria for climbing outside. I competed in the World Cup in Innsbruck first. My coach Michiel, teammate Don and I did plan to go climb outside for three days because we were already there. We tried looking for a hard boulder to see what I could do in it, but I never thought I would climb 8A that fast! Together with Michiel and Don I was able to find out the right beta in an hour. The day after I fell from the top hold, took a day of resting and on the third day, it rained so I had no choice but to do it.

Even though the competition didn't go so well, I was able to end the trip with a nice new outside boulder on my list. I hope to come back soon to Zillertal to try more boulders and enjoy the beautiful surroundings."

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Le théâtre et son double 8c+ FA by Antoine Kauffmann

Le théâtre et son double 8c+ FA by Antoine Kauffmann

Antoine Kauffmann has made the FA of Le théâtre et son double 8c+ in Kronthal. It has been a project since 2007 but even so, Kauffmann only needed 4-5 tries over two days. Uncut video (c) Yann Corby, explains that one possible reason for this is that he found a new very good rest due to the use of a knee pad. The difficulty consists of a four moves 7C boulder going into the rest, followed by an 8c. Previously in 2021, Kauffmann has done The Big Island, for which he suggested 8B+, as well as Aloha 9a (+) in Kronthal. The next stop for him is Flatanger.

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Whiskey in the Jar 8A by Lisa Klem (16)

Whiskey in the Jar 8A by Lisa Klem (16)

Lisa Klem has repeated Christof Rauch’s Whiskey in the Jar 8A in Maltatal. The 16-year-old’s previous personal best was 7A+!

I was very excited for this trip. I had only been to Fontainebleau a couple times before. I don’t climb outdoors very often because I’m a competitive climber. Because of the corona pandemic the last time I climbed outdoors was last summer.

Maltatal is located in a beautiful valley with a fantastic view. The temperatures are perfect for bouldering. At the top of the road it was about 30 degrees in the bus. As soon as you walked down and arrived at the boulders with a jacket it was 10 degrees. This was due tot the glacial stream that was next to the boulders, which provided colder conditions.

Actually I didn’t came to Maltatal to do a 8A at all. I never did higher than a 7A+ in one go before. On day 2 I did my first 7B in one go, on day 3 a 7B+ and the day after that my first 7C and on day 5 my first 8A. When I started on the 8A the crux felt impossible. Together with Tiba and Paul we searched for the beta for the crux. After trying all the moves I did the boulder in one go.

When I was little, 8a seemed tot be impossible. It was my biggest goal to achieve this. I worked hard for it and it paid of. ”

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