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Le Cadre Nouvelle Version 9a by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Le Cadre Nouvelle Version 9a by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who previously has done 59 routes 9a and harder, has done Le Cadre Nouvelle Version (9a) in Céüse. Adam Ondra did the FA in 2010, avoiding a chipped hold of an 8c. (c) Adri Martinez

Last summer I gave the route a lot of tries being in very bad shape and I always fell at the cross over. This season, in my most tired session and in my 4th try I could do that dynamic move and reach the chain.”

To Do List 9a FA by Mathieu Bouyoud

Mathieu Bouyoud, who previously has put up 15 routes 9a and 9a+, has done the FA of To do list (9a) in La Balme. “I bolted this line last year just after I climbed Team frisouille (9a+). A white wall very technical. I made around 30 sessions on this one.”

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Slovenia #1 in ECH in Munich

Slovenia, a country with just over 2 million inhabitants, was overall the best performing nation at the European Championship in Munich. Besides Janja Garnbret’s two gold medals, they had four more finalists out of which Luka Potocar placed second. Runner-up was France with five finalists including …

Mens' Top-8 into the Combined final

Mens' Top-8 into the Combined final

The male Combined finals will start on Thursday at 15.00 with Boulder followed by Lead at 17.00. (c) Petr Chodura 1. Adam Ondra CZE 690 + 1 000 = 1 690 2. Luka…

Womens' Top-8 Combined on Wednesday

Womens' Top-8 Combined on Wednesday

Based on the Combined "World Cup" points, the Top-8 females will compete in the new (Olympic) Combined format on Wednesday. If you have not participated in both…

Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Nicolai Uznik won by doing two boulders in six attempts out of which one flash. This was just one attempt less than Sam Avezou. In the live streaming they give …

Janja superior once again

Janja superior once again

Janja Garnbret climbed with ease passing Jessica Pilz high point. The biggest drama was actually Janja’s big whipper partly upside down, having done a big diago…

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Ratstaman Vibrations 9b FA by Alex Megos

Alex Megos, who was #3 in Briancon, reports on Insta that he has made the FA of Ratstaman Vibrations 9b in Céüse. The steep, 35m line was bolted by Chris Sharma some ten years ago and has been tried by many top climbers. Last year, Alex tried it but the actual process started three weeks ago after the Chamonix WC. After five projecting days, he took a break in order to do the Briancon WC. Upon returning to Céüse, he did it on his second day.

The route is relatively short. Only about 25 moves until it's basically over. It starts with tensiony moves on crimps and gastons which lead into this crazy sideways dyno from a toe hook. After that you have a small rest and a few more hard moves leading up to the second crux. The second crux is a low percentage move from an undercling to a small 3 finger slot. I think I fell there 10-15 times.”

What is next? European Championships 😂. Professional preparation here in Ceüse 👌🏼.

Avenida Brazil 8c MP FA by Felipe Camargo

Avenida Brazil 8c MP FA by Felipe Camargo

Felipe Camargo has made the FA of Avenida Brazil, a 280m route with difficulties up to 8c in Gruta Casa de Pedra (BRA), the largest cave mouth in the world. The Brazilian had to wait four years to get official permission to bolt and then he and a selected team started bolting and cleaning it ground up. The ascent took 18 hours with no falls and there is a 26 min. documentary coming soon. The grades are 6, 6, 8b, 8b+, 8b, 8c, 7c and 7b+. " I started climbing at 9 pm to avoid the heat and I climbed till 3 pm. We slept on the top of the 4th pitch on porta ledges, where we also waited for the sun until 12 am to leave the wall. We finished climbing at 18:00." (c) Gabriel Tarso

They have bolted another six routes and the potential is almost endless as there are several similar caves in the area. The only problem is that the walk-in is nearly 90 min uphill. Others teams will also be able to bolt once regulations with the Park administrators are ironed out. The 31-year-old has previously done seven routes 9a to 9b, a couple of 8Cs and also some hard multi-pitches including Corazón de ensueño (8c). As a 16- and 17- year old he participated in seven World Cups and one WCH always placing within the top 35. In other words, Felipe's overall skills and talent as a climber have been vetted. His impact on the Brazilian scene has been profound thanks to his efforts bolting routes and exploring new bouldering areas.

La prophétie des grenouilles 8c+ (9a) by Max Bertone (15)

La prophétie des grenouilles 8c+ (9a) by Max Bertone (15)

Max Bertone, who did his first 8c+ at age 12, has done La prophétie des grenouilles (9a), giving it a personal 8c+ grade. “A bit deceived that it couldn't be my first 9a but still a great line ! Thanks to Jorg Verheoven for the support at the previous ascent when I fell on the last move. This morning it was dry and windy. Good vibes! The second session was the good one. Between the two sessions Jorg Verheoven and Jules Marchaland sent the route and called it 8c+. Having little experience in this grade, I proposed 8c+ too.”

Could you tells us a little more about climbing this route and what's next on your agenda?
I started this project last year. I had little time and managed to send the first section of this route which is a 8c. Than I spent two more sessions in the second part and I fell on the crux at the top. This year, I knew I would succeed because I quickly managed to pass the crux at the top of the route.

I only have 2 days left in Briancon because I have to prepare for the European Bouldering Championship in Graz, so I will do some easier routes :)

Hard Twisted 9a+ FA by BJ Tilden (41)

BJ Tilden, who previously has put up seven 9a FAs, has done the FA of Hard Twisted (9a+) in Wolf Point. "A connection of Lions share and Dire wolf with a significant section of new hard climbing. Very psyched on this one!!"

Impressively, the 41-year-old does normally manages to climb only two days a week as he is a full-time carpenter/construction worker.

Condé de choc 9a by Killian Chabrier

Condé de choc 9a by Killian Chabrier

Killian Chabrier, who until three months ago a had 8b as his route PB, has done Condé de choc (9a) in Entraygues.

This summer I wanted to do a trip mixed with 2 weeks of lead climbing in Briancon and 3 weeks of bouldering in Magic Wood, with the the objective of doing 9a lead climbing and 8C bouldering. So I decided to try Condé de Choc which I tried last year, this year I did 2 sessions trying all the moves and a third one where I sent it on my 5th try . The route consists of two sections and a rest between them. The first one is a 8A+ Boulder and the second one is like a 7B+ Boulder. The first goal of my trip is done and I am very excited to go to Switzerland and try new projects!”

La Terza Via 9a FA by Pietro Radassao

La Terza Via 9a FA by Pietro Radassao

Pietro Radassao has done his second 9a FA, La Terza Via in Frosolone. In total, Pietro has put up more than 100 routes and surprisingly, none of his 8c+ and harder (6) have been repeated. Almost all his hardest routes have been established during the last four years when he started to train harder and more frequently. The 26-year-old lives a couple of hours south-east of Rome and has only four times been on climbing trips abroad. The last time was in Spain in 2018. (c) Constantin Esposit

"🌞 These days are hot, very hot even for Molise and so I thought "why not try the route early in the morning?". I woke up at 4 and we met at the crag at 6, and by 7 I was on the wall feeling good and I managed the first free ascent of this project! 🙏 It was bolted a couple of years ago by Giorgio Ferretti, whom I thank for having equipped a logical and natural line, as hard as it is beautiful. It has the first part in common with "Homo Vitruvianus" with which it shares the first boulder problem (8B/+ so far) and after a decent rest it continues on the left on a strong overhang where you have to face another 30 movements without rest (for me this part is not less than 8c). It took me much more effort than "Homo Vitruvianus" (8c+), despite being currently in better physical shape. I propose the grade of 9a, waiting for future repetitions that will certainly better define the difficulty of the line."

Nuthin But Sunshine 8B by Alex Johnson

Nuthin But Sunshine 8B by Alex Johnson

Alex Johnson has done Nuthin but sunshine (8B) in RMNP (CO). Impressively the 33-year-old is peaking having done nine boulders 8A+ and 8B over the last 20 months after having had a five-year break from doing boulder problems of that grade. (c) Allison Vest

"I had a friend recently ask me “you’re on one lately, what’s the secret?” I immediately responded “happiness.” there’s no substitute for real happiness. I’m training, climbing, and spending time with people who push me to be better, try harder, work harder, and be kinder to myself. A lot has changed in my life in the last six months, and all I can say is I’m physically and mentally the best version of me that I’ve ever been. It feels really good."

The 33-year-old first made headlines on 8a in 2008, when we followed up on her victory at the Vail World Cup 2008 in an article. The same year she did her first 8A+ and was also #1 in the 8a ranking game. In 2010, she was overall #4 in the Boulder World Cup including winning one event. She stopped competing in 2015 and took it up again in 2019, trying to qualify for the Olympics.