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Falshiv geroy 9a by Niki Rusev (16)

Falshiv geroy 9a by Niki Rusev (16)

Niki Rusev, who did his first two 9a's in 2020, has done Falshiv geroy (9a) in Vratsa. Last year, the 16-year-old won both the World and the Euro Championships in Boulder. Impressively, he also won one Euro Youth Cup in Speed.

Can not describe how happy I am about this one😌. Back in 2020 @fazabrushes bolted a new line in the crag and it seemed to be a hard one💪. We did all the moves but for me, it was crazy to connect all the parts together 😲. The bad thing is that the route gets wet easily so we couldn’t improve more💦😩. Last month Ivailo fazata did FA 🫡. (Surprisingly fast he got back in shape after being a Bg national team coach the whole comp season).

For me it took me a month and a half to send Falshiv geroy (translated - Fake hero)👀. Every next try was better than the other until I stuck on the last hard move of the route, maybe because I underestimated it. I did try a lot of things like doing leg days in the fitness🦵(to rest more with my knees) or just training endurance in the gym but the final conclusion is I got better when I was on the route🤝. After another fail, I decided to change my beta by skipping one move and making a bigger jump and it helped🤔🤠🔥. I don’t know when but we have to go back to try the second part of Falshiv geroy. It continues directly through the roof of the cave and finishes on top of it🤯.

Moonlight Sonata 8C+ by Matt Fultz

Moonlight Sonata 8C+ by Matt Fultz

Matt Fultz, who previously has done five 8C+’, has done Moonlight Sonata (8C+) in Joes Valley. Taylor McNeill made the FA last year and there is a sit start project. (c) Insta

Could you say something about the ascent?
Moonlight Sonata is a very unique boulder FA’d by Taylor McNeil last year. On my first day, I did each individual move very quickly, flashing all but one of the moves. I expected it would be a fast send for me, but that ended up not being the case. The big surprise was that all the hand moves weren’t too bad, but the foot moves and transitions posed some serious problems. In the end, it took about 12 sessions in all. Half of those last Spring and the other half this Fall.

Are you doing any supplementary training?
I train flexibility through strength training. Squats, deadlifts, overhead press, and bench press are my main staples.

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by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Interview with Anak Verhoeven (updated)

Interview with Anak Verhoeven (updated)

Anak Verhoeven is historically speaking one of the best female Lead competition climbers. She made finals in the WC 36 times in a row. In total, she made the po…

The Polish Youth National rock climbing team

The Polish Youth National rock climbing team

Mateusz Haladaj has just been on a trip to Osp/Misja Pec with the Polish Youth National rock climbing team. We asked him if he could tell us how this team is se…

Bike to 8a

“Bike to Eight” is the name of the project created by Grenoble climbers Romain Noulette and Tanguy Topin joined by videographer Thibault Cattelain. Their project? Climb at the crags around Grenoble to tick off mythical routes in 8a grade by reaching the sectors by bike. As the first episode of their…

Complete closure of the ‘Badener Wand' (Battert) in Germany - sign petition!

Complete closure of the ‘Badener Wand' (Battert) in Germany - sign petition!

On the 9th of November 2022 the regional council in Karlsruhe, Germany announced that the crag ‘Badener Wand’ at the ‘Battertfels’ close to Baden-Baden will be …

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Noia 8c+ by Michele Reusa (16)

Noia 8c+ by Michele Reusa (16)

Michele Reusa has done Noia (8c+) in Andonno. "Noia is the first 8c+ in Italy, freed by Severino Scassa in 1993. The route is made up of the first part of an 8b+ (Noi) plus a traverse and the last part of 8b (Cobra). I did it after some five sessions plus attempts also on Noi."

Michele's younger brother Matteo and their father Iuri both climbed 8c+ last year at age 13 and 47 respectively. "This year was a year full of competitions and we did not climb so much outdoors. Matteo did one 8c. My father injured his knee this January and hasn't climbed that much afterward."

Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9a+ (b) by Gonzalo Larrocha

Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9a+ (b) by Gonzalo Larrocha

Gonzalo Larrocha has repeated Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9b) in Rodellar, giving it a personal 9a+ grade. "I use two kneepads, and that's why I think it is easier than the version that Andrada made. There is also a new hold on the last part of the boulder where you can cross instead of taking three small holds. Please add thanks to Dave, Alizee, Pol, Andrada, Silvia and Blakpad. Without them, none of this would be possible."

The hybrid route starts with a boulder that Gonzalo was trying for five days. The day before the send he did, Ali Hulk Extension Total (9a+), which is the standing start. Gonzalo has previously sugggested some personal downgrades of other hard core routes. The 38-year-old also spent a lot of time shovelling dirt to raise the soil (40+ cm) so that the falls would be better. In total, this was the tenth sit start ascent, including Dani Andrada's, a bit shorter, FA, meaning it is the most repeated 9b in the world.

The Multiverse 8C by Eric Jerome and Daniel Woods

The Multiverse 8C by Eric Jerome and Daniel Woods

Eric Jerome, who previously has done seven 8B+', has done the third ascent of James Webb’s The Multiverse 8C. It was put up in 2014 as an 8B+ but later 8C has been suggested by the two repeaters as well as others who have tried it. "8 days this season and one terrible solo sesh a few years ago. So insanely scrumptious this one!!!"

Could you say something about your ascent?
I first tried Multiverse in Oct. 2020 but at the time I couldn’t convince anyone to go with me, and I didn’t have enough pads to climb on it safely. Additionally, there are tons of options for beta, so it’s really helpful to have people to work with. This year Taylor McNeill was finally finished his Joe’s project and was motivated for Multiverse. He started trying it the previous spring. I was pretty exhausted after having spent a few weeks finishing a project of mine in the Tetons, but I wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to try with him. We stayed in an Airbnb nearby for a week and had 3/4 sessions that week.

Taylor sent it and I made some good links. I took a couple of weeks to train in the gym and recover from the Tetons and returned with Isabel Faus for another few days of attempts and got two big overlaps. We thought the season was over and it would be too cold for the long problem, but we miraculously got one more day of great weather. I drove out to meet Daniel Woods, Isabel Faus, Arjan De Kock, and Davin Bagdonas who had found the boulder. Fortunately, I was able to take it down that day before the winter weather rolled in.

Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he did the fourth ascents also confirming the upgrade.

Omaha Beach 8b+ onsight by Nolwen Berthier

Omaha Beach 8b+ onsight by Nolwen Berthier

Nolwen Berthier has made the third female onsight, after Katie Brown and Sasha Digulian, of Omaha Beach (8b+) in Red River Gorge (KY). "With feet everywhere and thousands of crimps, I have to admit that the climbing in RRG suits me well. The Motherload sector and its “Madness Cave” is one of the longest and steepest in the valley, which reminded me of my beginnings in climbing and the hours of training spent in the 45° overhang of M’Roc (a gym in France). On my first visit, I did my first 8a+ on sight: “The Madness”! And its left neighbour “Omaha Beach” was calling me." (c) Pete Whittaker

Full interview on Fanatic Climbing.