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Anesthésie 9a+ FA by Loic Zehani (19)

Anesthésie 9a+ FA by Loic Zehani (19)

Loic Zehani has done his fourth 9a+ FA in 2021, Anesthésie in Fetid Beach, which is a 60 move link up of old routes he has done. The 19-year-old, who did his first 9a in 2015, has done 35 routes 9a to 9b.

"Anesthésie is a resistance route on one and two fingers pockets. The feet are rare. It starts with "Corrida", crosses "Genocide", goes up in "H5N1" and crosses on the beautiful pillar of "Syndrome". "Corrida" is a 9a bolted and climbed by my father in 2010. It is very violent on the fingers. In 2019 it took me 6 sessions to get to the anchor and I found it hard! Note that there is still the possibility of "playing" again by starting with an 8a boulder or an 8b boulder in a roof with one-finger pockets."

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1. Kokoro Fujii JPN 44
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 33
3. Manuel Cornu FRA 23 (2)
4. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 23 (7)
5. Nimrod Marcus ISR 2 (9)
6. Anze Peharc SLO 2 (10)

Men's Boulder final highlights

1. Kokoro Fujii JPN 44
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 33
3. Manuel Cornu FRA 23 (2)
4. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 23 (7)
5. Nimrod Marcus ISR 2 (9)
6. Anze Peharc SLO 2 (10)

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MORE NEWS

1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 (7)
2. Camilla Moroni ITA 44 (13)
3. Stasa Gejo SRB 24
4. Elena Krasovskaia RUS 23 (2)
5. Brooke Raboutou USA 23 (3)
6. Andrea Kümin SUI 13
Complete results

Highlights female Boulder finals

1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 (7)
2. Camilla Moroni ITA 44 (13)
3. Stasa Gejo SRB 24
4. Elena Krasovskaia RUS 23 (2)
5. Brooke Raboutou USA 23 (3)
6. Andrea Kümin SUI 13
Complete results

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Zimalis Alexandra 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber

Zimalis Alexandra 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber

karoline sinnhuber has done her 34th 8A+, Zimalis Alexandra in Silvretta and there is a great video on her Insta. In the 8a ranking game, the former competition climber is #3. "Nice one! Morphooooo, but climbs nice with the short girl beta‘. Left crimp needs so much skin :(" (c) Fabian Leu

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Puro Dreaming 8c+/9a by Gianluca Vighetti (13)

Puro Dreaming 8c+/9a by Gianluca Vighetti (13)

Gianluca Vighetti, who two weeks ago become the youngest in the world to have done a 9a, has done the Puro Dreaming 8c+/9a in Arco.
"Last weekend, after TCT (9a) went to Arco to try Puro Dreaming. I thought that route would have been kinda my style because it is endurance with good rests in between. After my first try, I understood that it was absolutely possible and easier than TCT. Today the weather was terrible, all the holds were humid. Anyhow, on my first try, I fell higher than all previous attempts but the hold was completely wet, so I tried to dry it with some paper towels and it worked. Two hours later I did it in the rain. I'm really happy because I did this dream line in only two weekends."

What are your plans for this autumn and winter?
Maybe Thunder ribes 9a. It starts with Puro Dreaming's first crux and then there is a boulder at the end. This Winter at Sessi, a crag near my house, there are some bouldery routes that I want to free, from 8b+/8c to maybe 9a I also think that Pure Dreaming plus (9a+) is possible but really hard.

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Team frisouille 9a+ FA by Mathieu Bouyoud

Team frisouille 9a+ FA by Mathieu Bouyoud

Mathieu Bouyoud has done the FA of Team frisouille 9a+ in La Balme. "It is a very old technical project bolted by Cyrille Bouchard, a local climber. It is 30 meters long and shares the first five bolts with an 8c. I tried it for the first time in 2013 and since I have tried it every September when it is all dry and have cold conditions. So happy to finish the job 🙏"

Previously, the 31-year-old has done 27 9a's and one 9a+. The latter was a FA he did in 2015, which is still unrepeated and that goes also for some of his 12 9a FAs.

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Male finals

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Wild West 9a/+ by Ramonet (39)

Wild West 9a/+ by Ramonet (39)

Ramon Julian Puigblanque, one of the best Lead competition climbers in the history, reports on Insta that he has done Wild West 9a/+ in Margalef. The 39-year-old has previously done 73 routes 8c+/9a and harder meaning he is #4 on that list. The 158 cm tall is well known for his hard gradings and in his scorecard he has just 51 routes 9a and harder recorded.

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New base line 8B+ by Katie Lamb

New base line 8B+ by Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb has done her second 8B+, New base line in Magic Woods. In the 8a ranking game, the 24-year-old is #2. "Changed shirts and found some try hard. Perfect finish to a week in the woods with keen and the euro trip. Scalers gon scale." (c) Keenan Takahashi

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Natalia Grossman is the Boulder World Champion

Natalia Grossman is the Boulder World Champion

Natalia Grossman, who won the qualification and the semi, is the new Boulder World Champion after having topped all boulders in seven attempts. Three of the boulders she flashed and she was actually in another league and as usually smiling her way up to the top. Runner-up was Camilla Moroni who needed 13 attempts and she was so happy so she started crying. Overall it was possibly the best female Boulder final for many years and Stasa Gejo got the bronze by doing two bronzes. Chris Danielson and his route setting team were again spot on creating spectacular boulders where we often did see different beta. (c) Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 (7)
2. Camilla Moroni ITA 44 (13)
3. Stasa Gejo SRB 24
4. Elena Krasovskaia RUS 23 (2)
5. Brooke Raboutou USA 23 (3)
6. Andrea Kümin SUI 13
Complete results

It should be mention that Natalia is also #1 in the Boulder World Cup when only one event remains and her worst result is #3 in Boulder. In the Lead WC, she was runner up after having been Top-3 in the last four competitions. Add to that eleven boulders 8A to 8B and it is easy to already say who have made the biggest breakthrough in 2021. Here is a video presentation of the smiling climber.

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