LATEST NEWS

Thursday, 24 September

Simon Lorenzi doing Quoi de neuf 8B+ (C)

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Thursday, 24 September

Petting with an alligator 8A+ by Mia Krampl

Mia Krampl, #2 in the Lead World Championship last year and who later qualified to Tokyo, has done her second 8A+, Petting with an alligator in Maltatal.

I tried it few weeks ago and I loved it. So many different type of moves and heel hooks, knee hook... when I saw the boulder it seemed so difficult to me but with some help of my friends who have already sent it and told me the beta, I liked the line even better! Unfortunately I was falling from the last move for the several times on that day. This sunday I went back to Maltatal without the plan of trying Petting... but during the time I was waiting for the colder temperatures to try something harder with the other guys, I decided to give it a go! I've send it in few tries!

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MORE NEWS

Vuelo a ciegas 8b by Geila Macia (12)

Thursday, 24 September

Vuelo a ciegas 8b by Geila Macia (12)

Geila Macia, daughter to famous Spanish climbers Berta Martin and Israel Gacia, has done Aribaba 8a in Montserrat, (c) Israel, as well as her first 8b, Vuelo a ciegas in Totxo del Macana. Interestingly, it was put up in 1986 as the first 8b in Spain. Berta did it ten years ago and comments,

"It is a short and explosive route with a decisive dynamic move at the beginning from two-finger-pockets. Last autumn Geila tried it once and then we went to Hueco Tanks for three weeks, where she did three 7C's. Once we returned she tried it again but then there was the lockdown and we just trained a lot at home. It was the only thing we could do...train. During the summer we focused on easier routes in Montserrat where she also did 8a and 8a+. On September 12th Geila did Arribaba, a very explosive and resistant 8a and we saw that she was very fit she returned to the 8b.

Geila was extremely motivated to go to the project because she was determined to do the dynamic move. The rest of the route is more controlled moves but requires a lot of precision on feet, and there are a couple of more controlled dynamics but she had them well-rehearsed. Many failed tries but her motivation never gave up. Eventually, she coordinated the dyno very well with the movement of feet and hips and went to the anchor... with determination and enjoying the moment."

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FA queen Isabelle Faus puts up 8B+ and 8B's

Wednesday, 23 September

FA queen Isabelle Faus puts up 8B+ and 8B's

Isabelle Faus has added yet another very impressive FAs to hard scorecard; Sinwav 8B+ in Pine Cliff, Get Laid 8B in Scoop and Glitter addict 8B in Pine Cliff. In total, she has now opened 19 boulders 8A to 8B+ FAs which makes her totally superior in the FA game. (c) Chad Greedy

"For me exploring and cleaning is a constant, I like repeating boulders too, but doing a first ascent is a contribution to the climbing community so for me it’s more satisfying. It also makes the whole experience of projecting harder.. finding, cleaning , figuring out the beta, but I love the challenge. Finding beta is my favorite part, it’s super creative... there’s no videos or pics for beta, so you really have to figure it out... Doing a first ascent means you have to have vision, know how to clean boulders, figure out your own beta, be willing to get dirty, and have faith in yourself that your doing things right and that your project is worth your time. It’s a lot harder! Process is always work, but it’s great to transform something and give a little to the community. Very grateful for all the people who showed me how to open boulders. We have endless projects and I know from exploring that we always have things to do :)

Doing Sinawav was scary! I found it in a solo mission and it’s my favorite thing I’ve found so I really wanted to do it. The day I sent I was in a bad mood, but I finally made it to this ledge before the highball ending.. I normally would have been scared cause I was sweaty and tired but... that day I gave zero fucks... It helped haha :) I definitely tried it with a rope, I always rehearse sequences on highballs. It’s hard climbing and high consequence. It breaks down like 8B to the ledge, after that you really don’t want to fall, and it’s 7C to the top. Bad slopey crimps and huge moves."


Sinawav was put up some two months ago and has not been repeated although Daniel Woods has been close. Two weeks the boulder FA queen repeated Creme de la Crumb 8B+ after some seven sessions of projecting. In the 8a ranking game she is #2 after Alex Puccio.

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UPDATED - Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9b by Dani Fuertes (39)

Wednesday, 23 September

UPDATED - Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9b by Dani Fuertes (39)

Dani Fuertes has done Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9b in Rodellar. More info in spanish on his Insta. "For me it is a dream to achieve this difficulty, specially because I’m not a professional climber. I have my full time job as a fire man and my family! Besides it’s a route for younger climbers haha and I’m a little bit old 🙄. But I will go on there! Doing that is my passion with my family, Sílvia and Africa! I have not done any specific training, I have only climbed the route and I have worked it by sections, doing boulder in the crux and training resistance in the last part. I have learnt a lot on a mental level. The route requires to always be very concentrated because you can fall in many sections if you are not focused. Next? Climbing climbing climbing bolting climbing all time!!!🤣🤣🤣."(c) Carlos "citro" Logroño

Originally Dani Andrada did the FA of Ali Hulk sit start extension 9b back in 2007 which has only been repeated by Magns Midtbö. Then last year, Jonathan Flor added some 15 mainly crimp moves and "total" to the original name, keeping the grade. Jorge Diaz-Rullo and Laura Rogora have previously repeated it. In total, the hybrid boulder route has over 100 moves and it took the 39-year-old around 20 minutes to climb including four very good rests. It starts with a around 15 moves sist start boulder followed by some 35 moves before you tie in, then you traverse out of the cave and in total, the overhang should be like 30 meters.

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Wednesday, 23 September

Sep 23-26 Austria Summer Series Finals

The Austrian Climbing Summer Series Finals in Innsbruck is live Sep 23-26 on EpicTV

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Gondor 8c and Der Seewächter 8b+ by Eva Hammelmüller

Tuesday, 22 September

Gondor 8c and Der Seewächter 8b+ by Eva Hammelmüller

Eva Hammelmüller has done Der Seewächter 8b+, (c) Andre Costar, and Gondor 8c in Ötztal. In total, the 20-year-old has now done six 8c's in 2020 and she is #5 in the 8a ranking game.

"Gondor felt really hard when I tried it for the first time, but I made good progress from each try to the next. I struggled a bit on the lower crux, so I changed my beta slightly. On the next go, I climbed through these hard moves and could send the route straight away! As university starts again in October, I will climb a lot in Ötztal, but I would also like to go to Arco and maybe Tessin or Magic Wood on long weekends. Definitely a lot of outdoor climbing!"

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Tuesday, 22 September

Ten 8a and 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (55)

Cathy Wagner has during the last six weeks done eight 8a's and two 8a+;
Campagne in Arudy, "Small sector of great quality! Exceptional route very overhanging in a compact pebble! Climbing sections and knees to temporize, all I can do! In agony in the heat of Thursday, almost "easy" in the fall conditions of Saturday. In 3 days."

Quand la folie des hommes gronde in Revilla, "Magnificent route mainly on colos, and about twenty movements, which leans very strongly like all the others in this sector to the right. A saving knee separates the 2 sections for which I had to do my own way because Seb's methods are classy and beautiful to look at from the bottom but just ultra-physical ..! In a pure fight 🤪 to my 4th climb in 3 days."

The 55-year-old has now done 777 routes 8a to 8b, which should be most in the world for a female. Interestingly, Cathy has performed more or less the same during the last twenty years. It should also be noted that around one third of her ascents are done second go so there should still be room for an 8b+ personal best if she started to project one.

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Super Power 8C/+ FA  by Aidan Roberts

Monday, 21 September

Super Power 8C/+ FA by Aidan Roberts

Aidan Roberts reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Super Power 8C/+ at the LandStones, which is a sit start to Manpower 8A. He started trying it four years ago and in total it took him some nine sessions. (c) Sam Pratt

" In terms of pure difficulty and minimalism, this one takes the top spot and undoubtedly barges it’s way to my hardest climb to date whilst also aligning perfectly with my style. Steep, body tension, wide moves and small crimps and, from my experience, possibly one of the best of it’s style I’ve come across."

In regards why he did not go for 8C+, he comments Insta, "I’m not yet so willing to commit to this new territory with so little experience so, despite it’s slightly lame nature, will propose the annoying slash grade of 8C/+. Perhaps some more clarity will arise once I’ve developed a little more experience of cutting edge climbing."

It should be noted that the 21-year-old one month ago did the FA of Outliers 8C at Trowbarrow and one week ago did the FA of Copperline 8B+ in the Coppermines. Five years ago he won a Euro Youth Cup and among the seniors, his best result is #19 in the World Cup.

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Monday, 21 September

Ondra downgrades to 9a by kneebars

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