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Kingda Ka 8B by Marine Thevenet

Sunday, 9 August

Kingda Ka 8B by Marine Thevenet

Marine Thevenet, #7 in the World Cup in 2014, reports on Insta that she has done the FFA Kingda Ka 8B in the San Gottordo pass up at 2 100 meters. In total, the lawyer working full time, has done some 50 boulders in the 8th grade out of which almost half of them during the last 18 months. (c) Clement Lechaptois

"I tried it during a weekend last summer but I could not do the first part of the boulder. The last week, surprisingly, I did the first part of the boulder and I felt reaching the underclings at the first try, so I spent two sessions to find my beta on the rope and two more sessions to send the boulder. The process was really exciting :)"

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Saturday, 8 August

Las meninas 9a/+ FA by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, #1 in the ranking game, has done the FA of two hard core routes in Rodellar.

Las Meninas 9a/+: "Super line of pure resistence bolted by Gonzalo Larroccha!"
La menina sixtina R2 9a: "Super nice! How cool and very logical! Endurance and a very tricky final stretch. 9a easy?"

In total the 20-year-old has done 27 routes 9a to 9b out of which 12 the last 12 months.

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Black Cobra 9a by Niki Rusev (14)

Saturday, 8 August

Black Cobra 9a by Niki Rusev (14)

Niki Rusev, who previously this summer did his first 9a, has repeated Adam Ondra's Black Cobra (2) 9a in Herculane in just five tries.

"Much easier than my first 9a - Napred i nagore. My couch (Faza) bolted third extension on Black Cobra and its very hard, but is possible do it, because I did all moves, but only I didn’t do one jump for small pinch, but will be fine. It will be a big project for the future."

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Bibliographie 9c FA by Alex Megos UPDATED with comments

Friday, 7 August

Bibliographie 9c FA by Alex Megos UPDATED with comments


Alex Megos has done the FA of Bibliographie 9c in Céüse after around 60 days of projecting. The 35 m route was bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009 and the 26-year-old has tried it actively for three year. In the video from 2019, some of the sequences are included. (c) Jenya Kazbekova

The crux consists of 4 moves in the middle of the route. Approximately 8a+ boulder. You have a relatively good hold and you need to do a big gaston move to a crimp, from there you match on top of the crimp as a pinch. You do a dead point move into a bad two finger pocket and from there a long move to a crimp. Ideally you climb the boulder problem without cut loose, but sometimes my feet cut going from the pocket to the crimp."

Visa det här inlägget på Instagram

Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean you don't have a chance. Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it definitely wasn’t looking good after messing up the first (and only) try I wanted to do that day. I fell relatively low on the route though, so I decided to give it an infamous “one last go”. I passed the crux in the middle of the route, and found myself on the poor rest before the final hard section. Twice prior to this burn I had fallen on the last hard move of the route, so I wasn’t feeling super confident. Nonetheless I started off after the rest with full pace and only briefly slowed down to adjust one hold and to get it perfectly. I passed my ‘trouble move’ seemingly effortlessly and despite being completely pumped out of my mind, I was able to pull off the sequence of the last four moves. After clipping the anchor it seemed like all of the days of work I have put into the route were passing in front of my eyes. With approximately 60 climbing days over the past three years "Bibliographie" has been by far my longest project to date. I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. My personal suggestion for the grade is 9c (5.15d). Considering the fact, that "Perfecto Mundo" (9b+) has taken me 16 days of effort, "Bibliographie" with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder. Of course, as the first ascensionist you don't have your perfect beta from the start, you have doubts whether it is possible or not for you, if you are completely missing something, or if you are just not in the best shape. It is always harder to grade something without any other opinion. I am very curious about what the future of the route will look like, and grateful for other people's opinions. Independently from the grade, this has been a very valuable experience for me. It marks a personal milestone in my climbing life, one I would have not been able to complete without the support and help of all of my friends and family. Deep gratitude and thanks goes to all of you! (And yes, there is send footage 😉) Pic @ken_etzel

Ett inlägg delat av Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos)


In 2009 and 2010, Alex won eight out of ten Euro Youth Cups he participated in and in the remaining two, he was runner-up. He stopped competing in 2012, after having tried the World Cupo with not much success. In his comeback in 2017, he was #2 in the Euro Bouldering Championship and later in his second Lead WC, he was also runner up. In 2018, he begun his Olympic dream and won one event in Lead and got a bronze in the World Championship. Last year, he qualified to Tokyo by and he was #2 in the Lead World Championship.

Outdoors, Alex created history in 2013, with the first ever 9a onsight. In total he has done some 90 routes graded 8c+/9a and harder including his FA of Perfecto Mundo 9b+. Interesting is that his trainers Dicki Korb and Patrik Matros, have said that they deliberately have tried to hold him back and instead more focusing on a holistic approach.

"It is about balancing all things out and working hard, for a long term progress. Motivation, having fun and being creative are most important and I am not fan of strict systematic programs where you should doing fixed seconds on a hang board. Sure we sometimes do hang board excercises and we have a general plan but it can always be changed based on current feelings and almost half of Megos training is non-climbing exercises."

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Le lézard à pompe extension 8b+ flash by Oriane Bertone (15)

Thursday, 6 August

Le lézard à pompe extension 8b+ flash by Oriane Bertone (15)

Oriane Bertone has flashed Le lézard à pompe extension 8b+ in Roche de rame and last week she did L'extremacura 8c in Gravere. She got the beta by her little brother Max (13) who earlier this summer did three 8b+'. Earlier this summer the 15-year-old did her first 8c+ as well as her first 8C boulder. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4 in Lead and #3 in Boulder and consequently #1 overall.

They live in Reunion, a small island outside Madagascar but due to Covid-19, they have been caught in Europe since the start of the lockdown. Here is an interview from last month.

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Illusionist 9a by Stefano Carnati

Wednesday, 5 August

Illusionist 9a by Stefano Carnati

Stefano Carnati has done his fourth 9a during the last ten weeks, The Illusionst 9a in Flatanger. "Perfect rock, crazy holds, bizarre movements. Definitely climbs way better than looks!!! Tried some days last year in the worst possible conditions and sent today after falling off the upper crux." (c) Marcello Bombardi

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Nathaniel Coleman, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, skips 8C and does The Grand Illusian 8C+, in the middle of the night, with support from Drew Ruana.

Wednesday, 5 August

Coleman does 8C+ at 3am with support from Ruana

Nathaniel Coleman, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, skips 8C and does The Grand Illusian 8C+, in the middle of the night, with support from Drew Ruana.

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Two 9a FAs by Iker Pou (43)

Wednesday, 5 August

Two 9a FAs by Iker Pou (43)

Iker Pou, who did Action Direct 9a in 2000 and has ever since been one of the best rock climbers out there especially in establishing new big walls up to 8c, continues to deliver. After having trained, together with his brother Eneko, hard during the lockdown, "Dominated, push-ups, abdominals, etc. combined with the roller (bicycle) at home", the 43-year-old came out in excellent shape, making the FA of Free Full 9a and La Ware 9a. The latter is 35 metres with old school action in the last ten moves including two dynos into one-finger pockets. ©HermanosPou

We would have loved to go on an expedition now, as we did last year to the Peruvian Andes, but this is not going to be, we will have to reinvent ourselves at home, and strengthen the local economy and security. I think we will surprise with something very cool in one of the mountain ranges around us. There are still very interesting things to do here."

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Seven 8A's and harder by Charlotte Andre in Magic Wood

Wednesday, 5 August

Seven 8A's and harder by Charlotte Andre in Magic Wood

Charlotte Andre, who earlier this summer flashed an 8A+ in Fontainebleau, reports on Insta that she during a hot and rainy 10 days trip to Magic Wood has done seven 8A's including Foxy Lady 8A, 2nd Go, and Jack's broken heart 8A+. Furthermore, the medical school student flashed four 7C's and The Right Hand of Darkness 7C+ (8A). (c) Vladek Zumr

"My trip was really nice! I managed to tick a lot of classic boulders. Next time I have to find a harder project ;-) but this time I wanted to discover the forest and all the « jam » so I didn’t try a really hard problem. Nevertheless I had a lot of fun and I enjoyed it a loooooot. I met many awesome people. That’s why I love climbing to. Right now I have to switch to comp mode for the Tout à bloc. If there are some comps I will do the bouldering season."

Your flash record is really impressive. Any special strategy?
I most of the time try to make a good flash attempt but I'm not preparing myself really. I check one or two videos or sometimes I just ask the beta from the people who are trying the problem. I really take it easy and cool. If it’s work it’s cool, if not, no big deal.

You seem easy going?
Outside yes but in comps I’m really stressed. Climbing outside is just climbing for "pleasure" and fun. But as comps are my "main goal", it’s harder for me to take a step back and just enjoy and do what I’m capable of.

What is your training background
Three years ago I had to stop the comps because the first year of medicine school is really hard in France. I studied almost 12h/day from September to May. I could climb once a week for maximum 45min and that was all. Then I succeed my exams and the year after I started to train again and during the last two years I have been training very hard also during the lockdown. I’ve done a lot of physical training because it’s a big weakness for me :-). I’m doing a lot of super short training session like 30 minutes. I train mostly alone because where I live there is not a lot of strong climbers. I was super excited for the World Cups. I was ready and super motivated but unfortunaltey all the comps were cancelled because of the COVID. Consequently I started to climb outside. I went a bit to the local crag and then one week in Font and now the Magic Wood trip.

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