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by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Underweight is really common among climbers
Based on 700 unique votes - How common is underweight in Climbing? we can see that only 10 % have said they have never seen it. Actually, 8 % of the voters say …
47 % have almost not climbed this winter
The results of the 8a Poll, with almost 1 000 unique votes, "How has your Covid-19 training winter been like?", is quite chocking. 25 % did answer - "Almost no training at all" and 22 % answered - "Mainly hang boarding". In other words, half of the poll participants have had almost no climbing at al…
Work steep dynamic cruxes with rope drag
Doing a steep dyno means that your feet cut loose and it is all about stopping the swing. The most effective way of doing so while working the crux is simply by having tight belay in order to reduce the swing. The belayer can then give more and more rope for each try, until you make it without assis…
BMI monitoring by IFSC
During the last month, several top climbers have come forward talking about their eating disorder. IFSC have for several years been aware of the problem and there is a medical commission which has the goal, "to protect Sport Climbing from deliberately induced underweight climbers - associated with e…
How to reduce the underweight problem?
Lately, many athletes have spoken out about their previous eating disorder problems. Such information campaigns are good but the question is whether this will have enough impact making successful super skinny climbers gain weight? Alizée Dufraisse has just published her story on Insta, which we foll…
Organic is voted best crash pad again
Based on 1 500+ unique votes in our "Best Crashpad 2021" poll, Organic got superior results. In brackets the result for the 2019 poll, which is more or less the same. It should be noted that in 2015 Organic got 16 % and that all others (except for Flashed) had better results. 30% Organic (30 % in 2…
IFSC ready to decide on two zones in Bouldering
After talking to route setters and IFSC officials this winter it seems they are now close to agreeing that there will be two zones in Bouldering starting from 2022. The advantages are that two zones will make it possible to separate better and also that it makes the comp fairer for the athletes. Fur…
Meiringen 16/4 confirmed
IFSC has confirmed that the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen 16-17/4 will take place. Last year, there were no Boulder World Cups. "The “Addendum to IFSC Rules”, redacted in 2020 by the Climbing during COVID-19 Working Group, is currently being reviewed and updated." One difficult issue to resolve is …