Kyra Condie started to climb at age 11 and almost directly it was discovered that she had severe idiopathic scoliosis. In 2010, she did spinal fusion surgery to correct her more than 70-degree curvature and the doctors did not think she could continue to climb. In 2019, she qualified to Tokyo in Toulouse by being #7 which was quite a sensation as she previously the same year, only once had been Top-13 out of 18 World Cups. Last December she was listed on the Forbes30 under 30 list.
How much does the spinal fusion surgery affect your climbing nowadays?
Basically, it affects my climbing all the time and it is why I climb the way I do. The entire section of my back can not bend or twist at all. I think if you watch me climb. I tend to stay really straight on the wall. I do not twist a ton and I do not climb super gracefully. I usually have to muscle through moves that most people would be able to bend or twist and that makes it looks nicer.
Could you please explain a normal training week?
Let’s see, a normal training week consists of five days of training and two full rest days. Each day I have to do double sessions where one session is a workout and the other session is climbing. Sometimes the workout it weights or cardio, sometimes it’s more climbing-specific like campusing or hangboarding! We also make sure to do speed once a week as well as specifically competition boulders
Who are your training partners and what do they mean to you?
I’ve been training a lot with Allison Vest who’s also my roommate! She moved down from Canada so we could train together. I also have been on the same schedule as Nathaniel Coleman so we’ve been doing a lot together, which I think is awesome for our team camaraderie and for the psych! There’s also a big group of younger girls here who are incredibly psyched and motivate me every day!
How do plan to compete before Tokyo?
The plan is to go to as many world cups that I can go to safely! As well as continue doing mock competition rounds and prepare as best as possible in Salt Lake.
Elias Iagnemma has previoulsy commented to 8a, "I only used the new method with the knee pads but it exactly respects the line and the original grips." Christian Core put it up in 2008 but around 2015 a new crimper appeared. Previously also Adam Ondra, Nalle Hukkataival and Niccolo Ceria have repeated it.
Solveig Korherr, who has been on a climbing trip in Turkey for three months, has done Turkish Moon 8c in Datca. The 22-year-old is #1 in the 8a annual ranking game, and during the last months she has only three males ahead of her.
"It is a very unique line in the Can Baba cave and unlike most of the other routes, it is less kneebar intense and more finger strength dependent. I tried this route at the beginning of our trip here in Datça, but unfortunately, with wet holds and bad conditions, it was almost impossible to move off these small holds. After having done most of the classics, I finally came back to this one!
It was really nice to get my fingers on some crimps! After I found all the beta, it came rather quickly together. It took me four redpoint tries to get to the anchor. "Turkish Moon" suited me a lot more than some of the other powerful climbs in the cave! I’m glad that after climbing with so many kneebars in the last month, I was still able to hold on to some smaller holds :)"
Andi Stull and Richelle Hepler have done their first 8A+, Lethal Design in Red Rock. Both have their ascents on Insta; Richelle and Andi.
Richelle (32): "I love this boulder! So sick! So perfect! Crimpy and multiple variations for all sizes! I can't wait to try "for the children" because this boulder is so rad!"
Andi (23), pictured: "I started climbing at a local gym in May of 2016 and have been psyched ever since. I first looked at Lethal Design two years ago and pulled on to some of the moves, but my physical abilities were nowhere near where they needed to be in order to do it. Since then, this rock climb has been in the back of my mind and one of my biggest goals within climbing. After having two more sessions on it over the weekend, I was able to tick the climb off my bucket list. After sending this rock climb, I feel more motivated than ever to continue to train and push myself to see what I can accomplish."
On her Insta, Andi has also recently talked about the challenges of starting climbing coming out of an eating disorder. "Over the time I have been climbing, I have recognized that being strong and healthy is far more important than being "light” and will lead to greater physical and mental victories."
Elias Iagnemma reports on Insta that he has done Christian Core's Gioia in Varazze. The 25-year-old has previously done four 8C's saying Gioia is harder, suggesting the grade 8C/+. "I used knee pads which transform an extremely powerful move into an extremely technical one."
This route was put up in 2008 and Adam Ondra did the first repeat three years later suggesting an upgrade to 8C+. Core has later also said that this was correct, comparing it to other 8C's and before a new chipped crimper appeared in 2015. Full story of Gioia including comments from Core from last December.
Elias tells 8a that he needed 20 to 25 sessions over two years to take it down. "I only used the new method with the knee pads but it exactly respects the line and the original grips."The last picture shows his knee pad sequence avoiding the red dotted chipped crimp. There will be a video out tomorrow and later a longer video showing the entire process and some other boulders done in Varazze. (c) Simone Antuzzi
Andrea Kümin has done her second 8A+, Frank's Wild Years in Cresciano. The psychology student has been an active WC climber for seven years, with #10 as her best result yet.
”I tried the boulder once a few years ago and could not do a single move. It wasnt until last december I touched the holds again. Last year I tried it twice and fell on the last hard move a few times. After that I did not get outdoors until two weeks ago, because I studied a lot for my exams. When I tried it again and did it, it felt pretty good😊 I am really happy I climbed this boulder, because it is imo a powerful problem and it showed me that I made big progress in the last years😊
I hope that competitions will be back. So I am training for the BWC in meiringen and Innsbruck and the WCH in Moscow😊 Meiringen is my favourite comp🤩 And successfully finish my bachelor degree🤓
My thesis is about therapeutic climbing with depressive patients. Atm I am studying fulltime, which is a bit stressfull at sometimes but I generally really enjoy it😊 ”
Yannick Flohé, who got the bronze in the Boulder World Championship of 2019, has done his first 9a, Wild Publico. "Bouldery crux with dynamic moves on mono and crimps then going left into Pal Publico 8c. For sure one of the best lines in Marglef." The video is not the footage from the send but a clip as he did not have a camera man.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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