LATEST NEWS

Friday, 27 November

Too easy boulders also for the female

Among the female, the double gold winner Viktoria Meshkova, started out excellent in Speed with 9.40 and fifth place where Patrycja Chudziak won, which most certainly will make her #4 or #5 overall. Then in bouldering, Meshkova was just #6 at 34 behind six girls doing all four including Stasa Gejo, Mannah Meul and Eliska Adamovska, who onsighted them all. Based on the complete results, one can speculate that max 380 points are max making it into the Top-8 final.

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May it be SDS 8A by Chloe Pay (18)

Friday, 27 November

May it be SDS 8A by Chloe Pay (18)

Chloe Pay, who this summer sent her first 8A+, has done her sixth 8A during 2020, May it be SDS, aka "Leave it be", in Snugglers notch. In the Teenager ranking game she is #2 in the world.

"This choss-pile was both my longest and most pathetic project. I started college three months ago and quickly realized I had little time to dedicate to climbing. I went from ticking off climb after climb over the summer to going nearly three months without any big sends. I had never been through this type of hiatus before and, as a result, my psych for the sport waivered.

When I went to college, I knew my time would be preoccupied with school work, but I did not account for the other changes that would limit my ability to climb. My summer climbing squad went their own ways and I was left to train with my new college friends and on my own. Sometimes, just getting to the gym was a challenge. If I wasn’t able to catch a ride, I had to find 90 minutes in my schedule for public transportation to and from the gym. In order to overcome the low psych, I tried to keep my goals in mind, like possible trips, projects, and my nemesis “Leave it Be.”

Over the past three months, during my weekend trips to Smuggs, I threw myself at this chossy mess. I would consistently get through the crux, only to punt off the top of the boulder. I was so consistently punty, my friends made a video compilation of my attempts and added some soothing background music: “Wells Fargo.” Every year, the Smuggs road closes around Halloween due to the winter weather and doesn’t open again until Spring. When I heard that the road had closed for the season, I was mildly heartbroken. My friends had no interest in hiking up the road, and I was left to conquer “Leave it Be” by myself.

Last weekend, I caught a ride with some friends and hiked up to the boulder. Recognizing that winter was well on its way, I knew I wouldn’t have many more opportunities to send. Although my hands and toes were completely numb, I was determined to stop fooling around and just send the climb. I stuck the right-hand throw to a jug, the move I always fell on, and I knew that my battle with this boulder was over. I am happy to say that I never have to hang from that boulder again, and can now focus my attention on bigger and better rocks."

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MORE NEWS

Friday, 27 November

Kruder is probably out from Tokyo

Jernej Kruder from Slovenia, who two days ago become the Bouldering Euro Champion, started up the Combined qualification by possible setting a new PB in Speed with 7.51 which made him surprisingly #8. But then he scored just 34 in Boulder which put him as #13. Now the Slovenian needs the best Lead performance of his life getting at least Top-4 in order to make it to the final. William Bosi is #1 with 10.5 points just ahead of one of the favourites, Sergei Luzhetski at 12 points.

The Speed specialist making it to the final, and most probably will be #4 or #5 there, is Marcin Dzienski who actually made two bonuses. Interesting is that Speed specialist and favourite was just fourth in his best discipline and was possibly the first Speed specialist who made a top in an IFSC Championship. As a matter of a fact, he actually also touched the last hold on one boulder confirming that the boulders were way too easy. In total, ten male topped all four boulders. Based on the complete results, one can speculate that max 380 points are needed in order to make it into the Top-8 final.

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Friday, 27 November

Finals start 15.40

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Meshkova and Lehmann Euro Lead Champions

Thursday, 26 November

Meshkova and Lehmann Euro Lead Champions

Viktoriia Meshkova got her second gold by winning Lead ahead of Eliska Adamovska, being the faster climber touching the final jug. Both had previously topped all three routes. Amazingly, Viktoriia did 18 IFSC World Cups last year and her best result was #16! Molly Thompson-Smith got the bronze. It should be mentioned that Chloe Caulier, who was second in Boulder, topped both qually routes but did not show up for the semi. Most probably she retired due to saving her skin and muscles from the Combined Olympic quest starting on Friday. (c) Nikita Tsarev

Among the male, Sacha Lehmann got the Euro title seeming quite in control the whole way. Runner-up was Nicolas Collins who put up the biggest fighting show in the final. First, he chose to land with just one hand on the big sideways double dyno. Later he started to fight harder than the others and in the end, he was screaming like Adam Ondra for several moves. Noteworthy is that the Belgian is the only male athlete who has participated in all three finals and he showed his fingers for the camera and it will be interesting to see if he can get the skin back until Friday. Third was Dmitrii Fakirianov.

It must be said that overall it was a good show and on the live-screaming, we could follow the results in a bar hold by hold. Overall, the route setters and the organizers have done a great job in Moscow.

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Abaddon 8A+ by Katie Lamb

Thursday, 26 November

Abaddon 8A+ by Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb has done Abaddon 8A+ in Black Velvet and she is #5 in the 8a ranking game.

"Abaddon is my second of the Black Velvet trifecta and a friendly neighbour to my favourite highball, Natasha’s Ball. After doing my usual fifteen lap warmup on Natasha’s Ball (with a sun salutation on the summit each time) I was ready for my project. Abaddon sits right above a Pit of Mordor and I had to be careful not to take the rip of life into the Pit. Luckily two friendly trad climbers passed by and agreed to lie like logs in the Pit, acting like extra pads and being the perfect spotters during the send. With my heart and mind clear, the send felt bang bang!"

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Southern drawl 8C by Nicolas Milburn

Thursday, 26 November

Southern drawl 8C by Nicolas Milburn

Nicolas Milburn, who previously has done two 9a's, has done his second 8C, Southern drawl in Chattanooga. "Definitely my hardest boulder to date! I put about 25 days of work into this thing, but despite all the sessions, it does just feel like another boulder. It's odd to put so much of my soul into a piece of rock in the forest, but I take pleasure from this kind of pursuit. It has been really exciting to mark my progress on this specific boulder. I have been feeling really strong lately, but until now I wasn't really sure where I was at. Now I feel confident I have improved as a climber."

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Wednesday, 25 November

Meshkova is most impressive in Moscow

Viktoriia Meshkova, 20, who won in Bouldering, topped out the semifinal route with ease. Last year, the Russian did 18 IFSC World Cups and her best result was #16. As she also with 9.68 in Speed were among the best, she is now the big favourite to get the Olympic tickets. Eliska Adamovska did also top the nice route as also Daeia Mezentseva did but she was timed out. Noteworthy is that Chloe Caulier #2 and Alma Bestvater #5 did pull out from the semi probably due to saving the skin for the Combined. Complete results.

Among the male, Sergei Luzhetskii #2 and Aleksei Rubtsov #8 in Bouldering did not participate. Seven male got within one hold close to the top. The final starts at 4 pm Euro time.

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Wednesday, 25 November

Bouin - Fred's routes are amazing!

Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez first repeats of Fred Rouhlings Akira from 1995 are all over the media discussing if the first 9b in the world might be just 9a? Naturally, Fred is very surprised about the downgrade as his other two 9a's from the time have just been repeated and confirmed by Bouin. At that time, Rouhling was together with Alex Huber superior in the world and Seb just thinks it is amazing that such routes could have been set up 25 years ago. At that time, crash pads and roof climbs where you could train, both indoor and outdoor, did almost not exist at the time and Fred was by himself pushing the standards. "Fred was ahead of his time and part of the reason for my Vintage trip was to salute him. The difficulty of those routes is amazing! At the same time, I can just say all three routes felt 9a. " Fred is truly happy for the repeats and hopes more will come.

"Seb said that he had a good time in Charente! That’s more important. Climbing is for fun, so have fun and enjoy our climbing life. Repeats are great but don’t forget "to boldly go where no man has gone before!"

Dani Andrada tried the route around 2002 and after three days of effort, he came close and says he at the time speculated if it was 9a or 9a+. At the same time, he today thinks it with kneepads probably would be even easier which goes in line with what Martinez and Bouin think. In any case, it was important for them to do it in the way as Fred did it without kneepads. In any case, besides they and Andrada possibly found better beta, one can speculate if also a broken hold, better shoes with toe-hocking possibilities have had an impact on the grade.

Akira is rather similar to Andrada's Ali Baba hybrid boulder route and he thinks that the reasons for some of his routes being downgraded are that new beta has been found, the use of kneepads and that ladders and fans have facilitated the process of taking them down. Andrada and Rouhling have through their FAs made it to the history books but as it stands they will not be listed to have done 9b.

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Laura Rogora comments her 9a+

Wednesday, 25 November

Laura Rogora comments her 9a+

Laura Rogora is the perfect example showing that climbing is unique when it comes to gender equality. Based on her ten routes 8c+/9a and harder 2020, as well as two 8c+' 2nd, go and 8b+ onsight, she is actually a contender of being #2 in the world, together with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi, behind Jorge Diaz-Rullo. We asked Laura for some comments of doing Ghisolfi's The Bow 9a+. (c) Pietro Bagnara

"It took me 6 days and 17 tries in total. On my second day on the route, I was able to climb it with one resting but the boulder is very strange and risky so I needed some time to make it from the ground. On the day before the send I got super close but then my hand slipped just before the end of the harder section. I was bleeding a lot from my fingers so I decided to stop and try again the day after and on Sunday on my first go I climbed to the top on my first try. I was sure to fall on the last boulder on the slab because of the blood on my finger but somehow I could get through the last crux and clip the chain."

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