LATEST NEWS

Fred Rouhling put up Akira as the world's first 9b in 1995. The first repeats were done by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez last November and they thought it was 9a.

As other Fred 9a routes like Hugh from that time have been confirmed, he had a hard time understanding the down grading. "I don’t know but limestone cracks. Perhaps the holds became bigger. When Yuji Hirayama and Dai Koyamada came to try. They thought there was a very big difference between Akira and Hugh...😭."

Fred thought the starting boulder was 8B meanwhile the repeaters thought 7C. It should also be noted that they respected Fred's style by not using knee pads but said it could be even easier with it. Last week, Fred reflected about the downgrading on Insta (in french). In general, he thinks that grades are so vague so you should not confirm or downgrade. Akira is not 9b or 9a, instead, anyone can suggest a grade.

Akira 9a (b) by Seb Bouin

Fred Rouhling put up Akira as the world's first 9b in 1995. The first repeats were done by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez last November and they thought it was 9a.

As other Fred 9a routes like Hugh from that time have been confirmed, he had a hard time understanding the down grading. "I don’t know but limestone cracks. Perhaps the holds became bigger. When Yuji Hirayama and Dai Koyamada came to try. They thought there was a very big difference between Akira and Hugh...😭."

Fred thought the starting boulder was 8B meanwhile the repeaters thought 7C. It should also be noted that they respected Fred's style by not using knee pads but said it could be even easier with it. Last week, Fred reflected about the downgrading on Insta (in french). In general, he thinks that grades are so vague so you should not confirm or downgrade. Akira is not 9b or 9a, instead, anyone can suggest a grade.

Read more
Crystal Ship 8C by Cameroni FA and Lechaptois

Crystal Ship 8C by Cameroni FA and Lechaptois

Clément Lechaptois has done his third 8C, Crystal Ship in Cresciano, after five sessions. Giuliano Cameroni did the first ascent in January and actually, Lechaptois fell on the last move three times on the same day. Video is coming up on Mellow.

What is next?
Lechaptois (pictured): To pursue the development of my company SmartBoard. We plan to go back to Swiss for 10 days, and some nice projects in Rioupéroux and Chamonix in France.

Cameroni has previously done 17 boulders 8C and harder out of which seven FA, including two 8C+'. In other words, he is one of the most profiled FA boulder in the world, although just being 23-years-old. He is also one of the founders and editors of the Mellow Youtube channel.

Read more

MORE NEWS

Adam Ondra comments his FA of El Potro 9a in the Laboratori sector in Margalef. It shares the start of Chris Sharma’s First Round First Minute 9b and Ondra describes a potential 9c link-up.

El Potro 9a by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra comments his FA of El Potro 9a in the Laboratori sector in Margalef. It shares the start of Chris Sharma’s First Round First Minute 9b and Ondra describes a potential 9c link-up.

Read more
Le Cadafist 9a/+ by Cedric Lachat

Le Cadafist 9a/+ by Cedric Lachat

Fanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done Le Cadafist in Saint-Léger. It was FAed by Gérome Pouvreau in 2017 as a 9a but later a tufa broke. (c) Julia Cassou
- JuliaCassou.com

Noteworthy is that Cedric was one of the best lead competition climbers in the world in between 2001 to 2013. He has won one European Championship as well as two World Cups. The best result in a World Championship is #3. In other words, the 36-year-old should be considered as one of the best climbers in the world during the last 20 years, as he also has done 40+ routes 9a and harder.

Read more
Super Samson 8c by Théo Blass (11)

Super Samson 8c by Théo Blass (11)

Théo Blass, who last year became the youngest ever to send an 8c at age 10, has done his third, Super Samson in Claret after some eight sessions. His father Vladimir Arnaoudov, also an 8c climber, gives us the story.

"Theo decided to try the route after sending his second 8c in January - Guere d'usure at the same crag (Claret). Super Samson is quite different from the two previous 8c routes he did: it has a short and very bouldery crux (about 5 moves V10 boulder about 20 meters from the ground). As there were no intermediate holds Theo had to use largely the same holds as grown-ups and had to do some big moves but his relatively small fingers and height were an advantage for some of the moves.

Theo could do the bouldery crux after 2-3 sessions and after checking out all the sections and trying all the falls (which he generally does on hard routes to avoid bad or uncontrolled falls) he got very close to sending the route, however, the send turned out to be a bit more elusive due to bad conditions. The route became a bit of a mental challenge and Theo had to take a couple of weeks break before returning to the route and sending it quite easily.

This route demonstrates one more time that grades are relative, especially for kids. Adults can come up with some sort of consensus most of the time, but the further you get from the average adult climber's morphology, the more relative grades become. Guere d'usure, which is supposed to be an easier 8c took Theo much longer to send (the crux of Guere d'usure largely consists of compression moves on good sloppy holds with bad feet).

We regularly try to tell our kids that grades are not that important and that it is all just a game, and what really matters is to try hard, enjoy climbing, and be the best of oneself, but the message is somehow inconsistent and I don't think they always believe us because most adults that kids look up to seem to take grades very seriously. Never mind, we will keep trying:)"


Article after sending Guere d'usure, where Vladimir explains the background starting climbing regularly at age 8 and 18 months later doing his first 8b. Here he explains how he belays him after he did his first 8b+ at age 9.

Read more
Baumwesen 9a by Roland Wagner (41)

Baumwesen 9a by Roland Wagner (41)

Roland Wagner has done Baumwesen 9a in Salzburger Land. "Brilliant route. Took a bit longer than anticipated. 12 days this year plus 14 days in 2018/19. Using the momentum of “Sehnsucht”, I felt it could go down rather quickly. Baumwesen (“the tree being”) is a bit of a peculiar route since it’s right behind a massive tree. It’s nonetheless awesome and for sure one of my harder ones.

The route was FA’ed by Jakob Kronberger in 2017 and hasn’t seen an ascent since. I feel very privileged that with climbing we get to choose our "battles". Life’s been really good up there with no end in sight! Onward!”
(c) Chris Krah

Interestingly, the 41-year-old had only done one 9a prior to 2021, and in January he did his Sehnsucht 9a/+. Then he also provided five reasons why he thinks he could send his hardest route by the age of 40+:

1. Motivation/Obsession 2. Hard structured multi-task training 3. Injury-free 4. Lucky with conditions 5. Inspiration.

Read more
Hugh 9a by Noé Moutault (18)

Hugh 9a by Noé Moutault (18)

Noé Moutault, who has won one Euro Youth Championship in Lead and gotten the bronze in Boulder, jumps three grades and does Hugh 9a in Eaux claires."This route was totally my style, holes and dynamic pockets ;). I made it in my third session." Video on his Insta

How have you been training the last year?
My dad manages a climbing gym so it's like my second home. I trained six days a week and I was with a friend who had nothing for training at his home. I did two sessions per day, one of climbing and the second of the hang board.

Read more
Nihilist low 8B by Karoline Sinnhuber

Nihilist low 8B by Karoline Sinnhuber

Karoline Sinnhuber has done her sixth 8B, Nihilist low in zillertal. "Somehow I got fit over winter without being able to visit any gyms... weird things happening atm :D super psyched anyway! Let's go for the sit!"

Why are you using different shoes?
I used two different shoes because you have to make a foot swap on the big and slippery hold in my hands. Somehow the Drago sticks a bit better for the swap than the Instinct 😅.

How many sessions did it take and what about the sit start?
I did the ‚normal‘ Nihilist 8A a few years ago. Came back for the low start in autumn and had 2 sessions before it became too cold. This spring I spent another 3 or 4 sessions on it for the send. The Sit 8B+ adds another 2 moves, which are suuuuper hard.

Read more
9a+ and 8c+ FAs by Seb Bouin

9a+ and 8c+ FAs by Seb Bouin

Sebastien Bouin reports on Insta that he has done the FAs of Oppression 8c+ and Les gardes fous 9a+, both in St Guilhem. The latter took some ten days and 25 tries. "I am preparing myself for a project in Spain, and I have the opportunity to mix outdoor and indoor climbing at home. So these routes were perfect. Waiting for good conditions in Catalunya, it was a good excuse to jump on these projects."

He is talking about Stoking the fire 9b in Santa Linya. "I would like to try the direct which could be a 9c project. But the first step is the 9b 😁."

The 27-year-old did his first 9a in 2011 and now he has done 65 of them, meaning that he is #5 on that list. His hardest are three 9B/+ out of which two FAs and Adam Ondra's Move. (c) Sam Bié

Read more
Third 8c+ by Mattéo Soulé (14)

Third 8c+ by Mattéo Soulé (14)

Mattéo Soulé has done his third 8c+, Le blond, la brute et le manouche in Joncasses, after six sessions. "Awesome. Thirty movements without ever being able to put on chalk. The perfect route of resistence. Really fingery."

Already in 2017, he did his first 8b and later he has also flashed ten 8a+ and onsighted one. Last June, he did his first 8c+, Dieu merci and that one is still unrepeated.

Read more