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Jakob Schubert wins Lead stage, Mickael Mawem first after quali

Jakob Schubert wins Lead stage, Mickael Mawem first after quali

On a spectacular lead route, Colin Duffy (USA) (c) Jon Glassberg, Jakob Schubert (AUT), Adam Ondra (CZE), Alberto Ginés López (ESP), Nathaniel Coleman (USA) and Bassa Mawem (FRA) have qualified for finals at the Olympics along with Mickael Mawem (FRA) and Tomoa Narasaki (JPN).
The lead stage was won by Jakob Schubert (AUT) who looked quite fresh all the way to the top section, reaching the same hold as Colin Duffy (42+). Alex Megos and Adam Ondra did not have their best day. While Megos seemed to have issues with the heat and struggled early on, Ondra appeared to be motoring right along until he missed the rhythm change and suddenly fell off, looking surprised. Megos missed finals, being ranked 9th. For Ondra, a score of 39+ was enough for finals. Sadly, Bassa Mawem injured himself on the biceps after only a few moves and probably won’t be able to start in finals. Link to official Qualification results

The first half of the route was relatively easy, so everyone climbed up fairly high apart from Bassa who fell due to his injury. Like in bouldering, the routesetters set the stage for a great show. All unused bolts were removed from the wall, and those remaining were protected by plastic covers. The TV presentation was much better than in Bouldering.

Lead Stage Results
1 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 2 42+ (4:02) - [Combined Rank: 4]
2 Duffy Colin (USA) 42+ (4:44) [3]
3 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 41+ [6]
4 Ondra Adam (CZE) 39+ [5]
5 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 39 [8]
6 Megos Alexander (GER) 36+ [9]
7 Pan YuFei (CHN) 36 [14]
8 McColl Sean (CAN) 35+ [17]
9 Hojer Jan (GER) 29+ [12]
10 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 29 [16]
11 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 28+ (2:24) [1]
12 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 28+ (2:33) [15]
13 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 28+ (3:09) [11]
14 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 26+ (2:11) [2]
15 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 26+ (2:29) [13]
16 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 26+ (2:34) [10]
17 Harada Kai (JPN) 25+[18]
18 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 25 (2:48)[19]
19 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 25 (3:58) [20]
20 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 7 [7]

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Combined ranking after 2/3 stages

Combined ranking after 2/3 stages

Michael Mawem and Tomoa Naraski will climb in finals on Thursday independently of Lead results and Bassa Mawem has almost also secured a position. It is also looking good for Colin Duffy (USA), Adam Ondra (CZE), Alex Megos (GER) and Jakob Schubert (AUT). It is predicted that a score of around 400 will get you into the Top-8 final. We have added a speculated result in Lead, getting as close to 400 as possible, in order to see what more or less is needed. Remember that time will be used to split all tied result. (c) Jon Glassberg
Link to official results
1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 (3) | 5.95 1 (1) | 3T4z 4 5 3 pts
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) S: 2 | 5.94 B: 2 | 2T4z 6 7 4 pts
3 Mawem Bassa (FRA) S: 1| 5.45 B: 18 | 0T1z 0 4 18 pts( * 20 Lead speculation for making finals = 360)
4 Duffy Colin (USA) S: 6 | 6.23 B: 5 | 2T2z 17 12 30 pts * 14 = 420)
5 Chon Jongwon (KOR) S: 5 | 6.21 B: 10 | 1T3z 3 10 50 pts ( * 8 = 400)
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) S: 18 | 7.46 B: 3| 2T3z 7 11 54 pts ( * 8 = 432)
7 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) S: 16| 7.23 B: 4 | 2T2z 7 4 64 pts ( * 6 = 384)
8 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) S: 4 | 6.19 B: 17 | 0T1z 0 3 68 pts ( * 6 = 408)
9 Schubert Jakob (AUT) S: 12 | 6.70 B: 7 | 1T3z 2 13 84 pts ( * 5 = 420)
10 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) S: 7 | 6.32 B: 14 | 1T1z 12 4 98 pts ( * 4 = 392)
11 Hojer Jan (GER) S: 11 | 6.63 B: 9 | 1T3z 3 8 99 pts ( * 4 = 396)
12 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) S: 8 | 6.33 B: 13 | 1T2z 5 7 104 pts ( * 4 = 416)
13 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) S: 10 | 6.51 B: 11 | 1T3z 4 6 110 pts( * 4 = 440)
14 Megos Alexander (GER) S: 19| 7.47 B: 6 | 1T4z 2 15 114 pts ( * 4 = 456)
15 Cosser Christopher (RSA) S: 9| 6.48 B: 16 | 0T2z 0 15 144 pts
16 Pan YuFei (CHN) S: 20 | 7.59 B: 8 | 1T3z 2 15 160 pts
17 Harada Kai (JPN) S: 15 | 7.08 B: 12 | 1T2z 4 8 180 pts
18 McColl Sean (CAN) S: 14 | 6.93 B: 15 | 0T2z 0 3 210 pts
19 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) S: 13 | 6.71 B: 19.5 | 0T0z 0 0 253.5 pts
20 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) S: 17 | 7.34 B: 19.5 | 0T0z 0 0 331.5 pts

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Michael Mawem (FRA) wins Tokyo Bouldering Stage, Naraski second

Michael Mawem (FRA) wins Tokyo Bouldering Stage, Naraski second

In a very technical Boulder stage, Mickael Mawem had an amazing round with 3 Tops in four attempts on the first three problems and won ahead of Tomoa Narasaki(JPN) and Adam Ondra (CZE). It also happens to be Mawem's 31st birthday! (c) Jon Glassberg
Alex Megos had a good round, finishing 6th. Jakob Schubert was under pressure after only having 2 zones before the last problem. He kept his cool and claimed a top on the last problem, finishing 7th.
All boulders were extremely technical and all were topped at least twice, with no ties. M1 one was a slab, M2 consisted of a very difficult shoulder/stemming move into a shoulder press. M3 was a jump into a strange press move to hold the top. M4, the steepest problem, feet first started facing the crowd, then a crack move led to the top.
It must be mentioned that the camera work and directing was very poor throughout the round, often focusing on climbers on the mat while key moments were happening on the wall.

Results
1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3T4z 4 5
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2T4z 6 7
3 Ondra Adam (CZE) 2T3z 7 11
4 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 2T2z 7 4
5 Duffy Colin (USA) 2T2z 17 12
6 Megos Alexander (GER) 1T4z 2 15
7 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 1T3z 2 13
8 Pan YuFei (CHN) 1T3z 2 15
9 Hojer Jan (GER) 1T3z 3 8
10 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 1T3z 3 10
11 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 1T3z 4 6
12 Harada Kai (JPN) 1T2z 4 8
13 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 1T2z 5 7
14 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1T1z 12 4
15 McColl Sean (CAN) 0T2z 0 3
16 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 0T2z 0 15
17 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 0T1z 0 3
18 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 0T1z 0 4
19 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 0T0z 0 0
19 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 0T0z 0 0
Link to full results The lead stage begins at 2PM Euro Time.

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Bassa Mawem (FRA) wins Tokyo Speed Stage, Naraski second

Bassa Mawem (FRA) wins Tokyo Speed Stage, Naraski second

Bassa Mawem from France has won the speed stage in Tokyo with a time of 5.45. This means that he is the first speed climbing Olympic Record holder in history. In hot and humid conditions (still well above 30ºC), Mawem has basically secured a spot in the Finals on Thursday. It can be expected that even if he finishes last in the remaining stages, 400 points are enough to make it through. His brother Mickael finished third with a time of 5.95. If he gets a good result in bouldering, we might see both Mawem brothers in finals!
Among the favourites for the gold medal, Tomoa Naraski (JPN) had by far the best result, finishing in second with a time of 5.94. He skipped his second run, which meant that Adam Ondra (CZE) raced alone.
Jakob Schubert (AUT) achieved a new PB (6.70) on every run and placed 12th, Adam Ondra finished 18th, and Alex Megos (GER) placed 19th.
Overall there seemed to be a great atmosphere with many athletes achieving personal bests.
The boulder stage begins at 11AM Euro Time.


Results:
1 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 5.45
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 5.94
3 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 5.95
4 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 6.19
5 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 6.21
6 Duffy Colin (USA) 6.23
7 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 6.32
8 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 6.33
9 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 6.48
10 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6.51
11 Hojer Jan (GER) 6.63
12 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 6.70
13 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 6.71
14 McColl Sean (CAN) 6.93
15 Harada Kai (JPN) 7.08
16 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 7.23
17 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 7.34
18 Ondra Adam (CZE) 7.46
19 Megos Alexander (GER) 7.47
20 Pan YuFei (CHN) 7.59

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How to watch Climbing at 10 am Euro Time

IFSC has put together a list Where to watch Sport Climbing at the Olympic Games 2020

In Germany, ARD Sportschau is streaming the Men Qualifications live.
In Austria, ORF and ORF Sport Plus is streaming the Men Qualifications live. Katharina Saurwein is commentating.
In Poland player.pl has a Eurosport package with full Games streaming.
In Europe, a Eurosport Player subscription also allows you to choose the sport you want to watch (ca. 7€/month) and can be purchased in most countries.
Please post in the comments what the best options in your country are and we will update this news item.

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Male Speed PB's

Male Speed PB's

Offical Speed personal best rankings: (It should be noted that most of the athletes have made faster times during practice and non-official competitions.) (c) Jon Glassberg
5.53 Rishat Khaibullin KAZ
5.57 Bassa Mawem FRA
5.78 Ludovico Fossali ITA (5.65 in Italian Cup)

6.15 Tomoa Narasaki JPN (5.73 in Japan Nationals)
6.25 Mickael Mawem FRA (5.97 in Tokyo training)
6.29 Alberto Ginés López ESP
6.34 Kai Harada JPN
6.45 Jan Hojer GER
6.46 Colin Duffy USA
6.65 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
6.72 YueFei Pan CHI
6.72 Nathaniel Coleman USA
6.80 Jongwon Chon KOR
6.83 Christopher Cosser RSA
6.99 Sean McColl CAN
7.00 Jakob Schubert AUT
7.12 Tom O'Halloran AUS
7.27 Alexsey Rubtsov RUS
7.46 Adam Ondra CZE
7.57 Alex Megos GER

It is expected that most of the ones in the lower part of the ranking will set personal bests. It just might be that some of the ones that are not among the best in Lead and Bouldering will set a new PB with 0.5 seconds. Strategically, they just might have focused most on Speed during the last months as this probably have been their best chance to get a good multiplied overall score. Alexey Rutsov has chosen the other strategy having only done six suns in 2021 including three in Tokyo.

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Time Schedule Men's Qualification 3/8

Speed: 10.00 Euro Time - 17.00 Tokyo Time (GMT+9)
Bouldering: 11.00 Euro Time - 18.00 Tokyo Time
Lead: 14.10 Euro Time - 21.10 Tokyo Time

Wednesday 4/8 - Women's qualification
The same schedule as above

IFSC has put together a list Where to watch Sport Climbing at the Olympic Games 2020

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Jade 8B+ by Katie Lamb

Jade 8B+ by Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb has repeated Daniel Woods’ Jade 8B+ in RMNP after some seven sessions and she is #4 in the female ranking game." I came to Colorado with weak fingers but a strong mind. I knew I could ramp with the moon cycle and then it would be my jah day on Jadé. So heppy! Holy shit. A final gift from the alpine. Battling another crimping testpiece with duke... special mems." The picture is from a screenshot from a video published on her Insta. (c) Duke Lettieri, who sent it a couple of days ago.

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Great 36 min interview with Adam Ondra where he says Tomoa Narasaki is the favourite to win as he says he has no talent for Speed Climbing. Interestingly, Adam also says that he will not do any competition for a year after the Olympics as he has sacrificed so much only been training and being programmed for Tokyo for over two years.

Ondra - Tomoa is the favourite

Great 36 min interview with Adam Ondra where he says Tomoa Narasaki is the favourite to win as he says he has no talent for Speed Climbing. Interestingly, Adam also says that he will not do any competition for a year after the Olympics as he has sacrificed so much only been training and being programmed for Tokyo for over two years.

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Janja Garnbret the big favourite to win

Janja Garnbret the big favourite to win

Janja Garnbret was 2 - 2 - 3 in her three first Lead World Cups at age 16 in 2015. Since then she has won most of the comps she has entered in Lead and Bouldering. In Speed her PB is 7.92 which is best among all the non-Speed specialists. (c) Daniel Gajda/IFSC

Most probably the 22-year-old Slovenian will score 2 * 1 * 1 = 2. It will be sensational if her multiplied score is 10 or more. Her biggest risk would be doing a false start or slip in the first final race in Speed meaning her best result will be #5.

In bouldering anything can happen but even so, only an injury could put her outside the Top-3. In Lead, there are always a risk standing on a bolt or forgetting a clip etc and that would be her only risk not being Top-3.

In other words, she could score 5 * 3 * 3 = 45 points but then we are talking a mental break down due to some very bad luck in the qualification. What strongly talks against this is that it seems she has handled defeats great before. She just loves climbing and the challenging it creates and are happy even if she does not top out.

In reality, the only way Janja will only be runner-up is probably some bad luck in combination with Chaehyon Seo does her best Bouldering and Speed of her life. In Lead, she won over Janja four times out of six in 2019 when the Korean was 15-years-old.

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