William Bosi sent Alphane (9A) last November after projecting it a dozen sessions. "A few sessions back I was unsure as to whether Alphane would go on this trip, the temperature has been unseasonably hot, some rainy days had made it really humid and the route was damp in places. However, the crew out here managed to keep the psyche really high and the problem came together quickly. The moves on this line are so good and after a lot of time on the wall, I was really happy to claim the third ascent!"

Bosi stopped a successful competition career in 2021. His best boulder result was a bronze in the World Championship in 2016 and in Lead, he has twice been #4.

Lilli Kiesgen, who last year sent her first three 8A+'s, has over two days in Zillertal managed to send five 8A's; Clockwork Orange (8A), Analdin und die Wunderschlampe (8A), mother firestarter (8A),True Romance (8A) and Jam Session (8A). The 26-year-old is a former competition climber who was #9 in the World Championship in 2016.

Can you tell us more about the five 8A ascents?
We spent two days in Zillertal on our way from Innsbruck to Prague. I’m just on vacation in Prague and cheering for Yannick ☺️. The day didn’t start that well, we parked the van in the wrong parking spot and were pretty lost for an hour. When we finally reached the crag I started to warm up directly in the moves of Clockwork Orange. Surprisingly they didn’t feel hard and I could climb the boulder on my second try from the bottom. Afterwards, we went to Analdin - a real gem in the Forest! The holds and the line is just perfect. It took a bit until I figured out the moves around the sloper in the middle section, but I was still able to climb the boulder within an hour.

We were tired of walking around (and climbing!) so we did a break, cooked some tortellini and napped a bit. In the afternoon I just wanted to take a look at mother firestarter. I got hooked and climbed it after a really short warmup. I think two essential things got together yesterday, I was in the right mood and the conditions were good - not too warm and not too cold.

True romance is right beside the river and has mainly crimps. I figured out a beta with a toe hook so I don’t have to do the powerful extension move. Jam Session is a roof with some heel hook moves and a crimpy top out. The main crux was for me the far move with a bad foot over the edge. None of the boulders I did took long- I think that is essential if you want to climb a lot in a day.

Why do you think you are in such excellent shape?
I think my fitness increased so much because I started to train my weaknesses - steep walls with far moves on good or slopy holds. In the last year, I mostly trained on spray walls and on the Kilterboard and I think that is paying off now.

Matty Hong has sent Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. This was the 19th ascent of Chris Sharma's iconic route from 2001 which was bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1989. (c) Alex Aristei

”I first tried the route in 2017 with Margo Hayes and Daniel Woods. We all tried Biographie together for about a month but were unsuccessful. Falling after the crux on my last day made it hard to leave but the season was clearly over. Since then I’ve been dreaming of trying the route again. I planned a trip with a friend from the States to climb in Spain. When we arrived it was too hot so we came to Céüce. I’ve been here about 4 weeks now trying Biographie. It has been a challenging season with a lot of rain but I knew I didn’t want to leave again without completing the route.

I was very strategic this time with my attempts, I learned a lot in 2017 and felt l had to take a new approach. Balancing skin, fatigue, and weather is one of the biggest challenges of climbing here. Sometimes everything can be perfect except for a small cut on the finger which stops any attempt. This year I really enjoyed the process climbing on the route and when I finally did it, it was a surreal moment for me. Something I’ve dreamt about since I was a young climber and certainly since my trip in 2017.”

How did you prepare for the Euro trip?
Most of my training came from bouldering the past few months and then the time I spent learning the route this season. I didn’t prepare specifically for the route as I thought I would be climbing in Spain.

How did you warm up before the redpoint attempts?
Typically as a warm up I would start on a hand board, this gets my fingers ready without compromising the skin. I would then go up Biographie to brush the holds and get reacquainted with the movements. I find warming up on my project useful as it gives me a good idea of how I am feeling that day. Typically I could give two good tries per day, following the 2 on 1 off schedule. Although weather quickly because of the determinant for our schedule.

How come you think Biographie has become such an iconic route?
This route is not only iconic for its history but also for its notorious difficulty. Despite 15a [9a+] being a commonly climbed grade these days this route has certainly challenged some of the best climbers. I believe the route also presents a unique balance of difficulty which requires bouldering strength, endurance and a strong mind. These aspects all together make the route so amazing.

What's next?
I have another few days here and I’ve begun trying Bibliographie (9b+), the moves feel good and I’m excited to return.

Sam Weir reports on Insta that he has done Foundations Edge (8C) in Bas-Valais. Here is the video.The 32-year-old started climbing in 2012 and within a year he did his first 8A. In total, he has now sent seven 8C’s.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I worked the boulder a lot in 2021 and got really close to doing it but then winter came and was always mentally tired for the last hard move. Must have fallen there 20 times... In 2022 my life got busy with work and moving and I lost motivation for a while only climbing outside a handful times but incorporated some light weight lifting to my normal training (hangboarding and board climbing). The training worked and I managed to send the boulder third try this year first session back. It was really cool to see that year of just basic training paid off. It has been a good 2023 so far. What's next? I am trying Fuck the System 8c+ and would like to do Gioia 8C+ without the kneebar. 2 big goals should keep me busy for a while:)

Silvio Reffo, who has already ticked 16 routes 9a and harder, has made the FA of Super Pit (9a) in Covolo.

"I bolted this route last autumn, but with the arrival of winter it was too cold to climb to in Covolo. Last month after climbing Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+), I went back to try Super Pit. It is a route of 40 movements of power endurance, in fact, in the last few weeks I was falling on the last hold 5-6 times. It’s amazing how this crag still offers many extreme routes. I still have several projects from 9a to 9b that I would like to try in the next season."

Eva Hammelmüller, who last year won a Euro Boulder Cup and this year has sent two 8c+’, has done Moria (8c) in Ötztal. (c) Felix Mast

What's the lowdown on this route and your send?
The send of this technical as well as powerful route was very unexpected! After checking out the moves and trying to dry two holds, I just gave it a try, everything worked out perfectly, and I found myself on top of the route! As there are two other classic routes next to Moria, this line doesn’t get too much attention, yet (if you like tiny holds and some weird moves). It is incredible to climb!

What’s coming up next?
Right now, I am preparing for the Lead World Cup in Innsbruck and after that, it will be decided whether I’ll compete at the next WCs, too. Thus, I focus mainly on climbing indoors at the moment, but every two weeks or sometimes once a week, I like to go outside.

Daniel Fuertes, who has done 17 routes 8c to 9a+ the last year, has sent Apocalipsis de la gioconda (9a+) in Rodellar, giving it a personal 9a grade. It was bolted by José Luis Palao and then Jonathan Flor did the FA.

"Another super route by Primo, I don't know what the “Apocalypto” has [exactly] but I love this length!!! 50 meters!!! The F.A. is incredible. From Jonatan and his courageous proposal, back then it was much harder to do. Today, being able to try the second pitch in different ways, it feels a little easier, regardless of everything, it's an incredible line!!!!"

What about this climb gave you the most challenge?
What cost me the most was getting past the second block [boulder], since it suffered several breaks and forced me to change my "beta". The second pitch was controlled since I had done it on several routes! It's a fantastic route!

Thibault Lair has done Cosi se Arete (9a) in Rodellar. The 30-year-old has previously done seven 9a's and last month he sent Papichulo (9a+).

What's this route like?
It is a 50 m route in the overhang [directly] above the swimming pool in Rodellar, just next to Detectives (9a) which I completed a short time ago. Very quickly I passed the hardest section of the route but I fell in the last 5 movements of the route about ten times, which I didn't really expect. Before there was a rest between the bouldering section and the last movements of resistance but a hold broke which means that there is no more rest and that the sequence of the last movements is really hard. I don't think the route has been repeated since. Really a king line with a super classy crux to climb and beautiful and varied holds. Thanks to Serge for equipping :)

Shauna Coxsey, who just over one year ago gave birth, reports with an Insta video that she has done Flip Flopera (8B) at the bowderstone. This was done on her second session whilst Shauna was filming the top 50 7th Grade boulders in the UK which will be appearing on her YouTube shortly! (c) Ryan Balharry

UKC has the full-length interview with Shauna who in between 2014 and 2017 won 11 World Cups. In the same period, she also did three 8B's and one 8B+.

"It feels so good! I guess I never really knew what to expect from my climbing during my postpartum journey. I knew I really wanted to be pushing into the hard grades again, but I had no idea what my recovery from pregnancy and birth would be like, plus having double knee surgery when Frankie was 6 months old."

Andrew Nimmer, who did his first and only 8B+ six months ago, has flashed Massive Attack (8A+), Steppenwolf (8B), Voigas (8A+), Pura Vida (8A+) and Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood, out of which the last four were done in just the last four days.

"Steppenwolf was the number one problem I wanted to try on my trip to Magic Wood. My friend Matt and I watched countless beta videos and finally got to try it today after we waited 2 weeks for it to dry. He also sent today which helped bring the psych for the flash go.

For Voigas it looked like my style, huge moves on good holds so thought I had a solid chance at flashing. I felt like I was going to fall a few times but kept it together and tried hard for the final big move to the jug."

How have you been able to up your flash game?
I have been very close to flashing several 8A+ in the past, but have always messed up one small piece of beta and never put it together. I knew I was capable of flashing more hard boulders so this time around I am spending more time working out all the beta before jumping on. My friend Matt has also been with me trying the climbs before I do, and seeing someone do it in person really helps. Also, Moonboarding has helped a lot in preparation for this trip.

Your grade pyramid and especially the high proportion of flashes is unique. There should be plenty of room for doing 8C's?
I have been able to flash boulders relatively close to my max level for a while, and I think it comes from having a good ability to visualize climbs and how they will feel before I try them. I tend to climb with a lot of focus and tension, so that controlled style helps for flash attempts. Specifically to Magic Wood, the boulders are pretty straightforward and powerful without too many subtleties, which lends well to flashing. With the current breakthrough in flash grades, I think yes, maybe I can do more 8B+ and maybe 8C if I spend more time projecting.

What's the next plan?
I plan to try to flash a few more classics. I nearly flashed Dark Sakai (8B) today but I dabbed twice near the ending. Ended up sending it 2nd try. I also want to try Power of Now (8B+). A little less than 2 weeks remaining before I go home!

Have you done any stand-out and slightly more moderate problems in Magic Wood?
blue sky of mine (6A+), Höhenrausch (7B+) and Octopussy (8A).