Andrea Chelleris (15) onsights Abregenief (8b) and much more

Andrea Chelleris has been on a trip to Saint Léger focusing on onsight. During three climbing days, the 15-year-old onsighted eight routes 7c+ and beyond including Abregenief (8b). Three years ago, he onsighted his first 8a+ as well as redpointed an 8c+/9a. In the last season, he won the Italian Championships in Slalom, Lead and Boulder.

Which were your most memorable onsights and did you come close on other harder routes?
I think the best onsights were Abregenief and Le placard (8a+) because these were the most classic but I enjoyed a lot all the other onsight in La baleine. I came close to onsight Collection automne hiver (8b+) and also Le mur des cyclopes (8b).

How long do you observe to find the best beta?
When I onsight I do a long observation, possibly more than 20 minutes, to find out the best beta but sometimes I miss some holds like on le mur de Cyclopes. This trip I became better at it but in some situations, I still changed the beta because the way I planned to make the move was impossible.

What are your autumn and winter (skiing) plans?
From this year, I decided not to ski anymore and focus on climbing and competitions. It was too hard to do both and I wasn’t enjoying that at all because in ski and also climbing I was really bad at first comp because I didn’t have time to get into shape. I chose the sport that I liked most.

From the fifteen of October I will be in Villanueva del Rosario and there I would like to try La Planta de Shiva (9b) and some other hard routes but anyway I will climb onsight as well. Maybe, I will also make a quick stop to Margalef.

How much and where do you train?
I train 6 days a week mainly at Climbing Ranch. To train comp boulders I go to other nice gyms in Slovenia or Austria.

What about school?
This is the third year of homeschooling for me and I study from home. My mum helps me with this.

Ludivine Balbi, 15, does Amadeus (8c)

Ludivine Balbi has sent Amadeus (8c) in Sabart, uncut video. The 15-year-old did her first 8b at age 12.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
I started climbing very early thanks to my parents who took me to the crag since I was young (I took my first steps in the Finestra sector in Margalef!!! 😊). When I was 8 years old, I discovered competition by chance thanks to my instructor at the time Mathieu (Gallo-Lavallee also called Mr. MA.GA.LA). I quickly managed to rank well on the local and regional circuit.

In the summer of 2021, at the U-14 French Championships I was number two. In 2022 at the French Difficulty Championship in Le Pouzin I won the title of French Champion and this gave me access to the French Team and to international competitions.

Today I share my passion for climbing between the cliff and competition. I have the chance to travel to the major spots in France, Spain, and Italy. I have already done some 8b in climbing trips and I wanted to try a harder project close to home. That's why I chose Amadeus. I am so happy to have done it in 10 days and about 25 attempts and especially before my 16th birthday (at the end of October). I wanted to thank the Block Out Toulouse club for their support and especially my coach Guillaume Mauss for his kindness and cheerfulness.

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