Alizee Blass, sister of Theo Blass, who sent a 9a at age 12, has done Guère d'usure (8c) in Claret. (c) Laurent Dormont

Her father Vladimir Arnaoudov gives us the background story of her send. “Guere d'usure is the king line of Claret - one of the most beautiful and esthetic lines in the South of France. It is about 30 meters long and has two distinct parts: a 7a+, approach to a very good rest and then a beautiful overhanging prow with 3 hard sections. The last hard section is the crux. The beta that grown-ups use is too reachy for kids. Alizee's brother Theo found a different beta when he did the route 4 years ago consisting of about 15 moves mostly on bad pinches and vertical sloppers with very bad feet. The moves are quite dynamic and precarious and require a lot of precision.

Alizee is 11. She has been climbing since she was 4 - she started at the same time as her brother Theo. She first tried Guere d'usure last winter when she was 10, just for fun, without expectations. We knew that the moves were doable as her brother had done the route when he was shorter than her. She quickly managed to do all the sections and started trying to redpoint the route. She got very close last March, but then got injured and could not climb for a couple of months. She started trying the route again this winter (the crag is south facing and unclimbable on warm sunny days) and got very close to sending it a few times but given the precarious nature of the crux, she kept falling because of small mistakes, imprecisions or foot slips. In January this year Alizee had a bad fall on a warm up route and injured her foot, She could not put climbing shoes on for another 3-4 weeks. When she finally recovered she was more motivated than ever. Last Sunday, after a quick warm up on a 6b+ she sent the route on her first go.”

Adam Ondra reports on his website that he has repeated Soudain seul (9A) in Fontainebleau, in just five sessions. The next day he flashed Ubik assis (8B) and La Ligne de Bête (8B+). (c) Petr Chodura

”5th session I felt perfect. It was cloudy and windy day and the rock felt very sticky. I was close on my first two tries, but not enough. On my 3rd try of the day I put up some of the most memorable fights and made it to the top.

I feel very happy and proud about this send, it means particularly a lot to me especially after the last few seasons when I always felt very close to doing some relevant ascents, but it never really quite happened. Sending this in 5th session is the icing on the cake!”

Shauna Coxsey has repeated Jun Shiba’s Mito sit (8B+) in Sintra after just two sessions. The 31-year-old, with eleven World Cup golds under her belt, has done five 8B+’, out of which four the last year. (c) Ed Robinson

”Mito is one of the most impressive lines I’ve ever seen! The boulder was so much bigger and much steeper than I expected and the holds so much smaller! It’s a striking line straight through a steep face on a huge boulder, the start moves are on holds that are so small they only just work.

It took me a few hours to figure out the start moves. They are super feisty! I had a few link goes but was a bit too tired to piece it together. After a good warm-up on my second session, I got close on my first go from the start but fired off one of the easier moves towards the end. It was a good test for my composure and focus to send it but luckily it came together a few attempts later. And just in time as my skin was suffering! Sintra bites!”

Celine Mehouas, who last autumn did her first 8c, has redpointed Mind Control (8c) in Oliana. (c) Pinopictures

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The Oliana cliff is a personal favorite of mine because I love the long and physical style of the routes there. Having done Fish Eye last year, this time I really want to try Mind Control! This beautiful route is a classic of the cliff, and after visiting it, you quickly understand why there’s always a queue at the base.

It takes me two days to get into the rhythm, then I start falling at the top crux because I’m trying a different method than other climbers. Well, after two falls at this move, I decide to do it like everyone else, and I must admit—it’s easier. On the last day before the rain, the conditions are wet and cold. It’s not really what I prefer, but the motivation is stronger.

Second attempt of the day, after falling at the same spot again. I tell myself this is the last try—I need to shorten the suffering of Caroline Minvielle, who is kindly belaying me despite the cold.

After a little scare near the bottom, where it was borderline, I reach the final crux. I’m feeling good, and it seems possible. I don’t really know how, because this move has always felt so random. I wait, refocus, and grip the holds tighter all the way to the top. The energy from the attempt makes me feel super solid, and I clip the anchor just as the first drops of rain hit my face. Perfect timing! The next day, the rain made the end of the route impossible. 😉

Ben Blackmore, with ten 8B+’ under his belt, has repeated Daniel Woods’ classical 65 degrees roof Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). ” Oh my god still can’t believe this 🤯🤯! What a surreal moment topping this thing out into the snow after god knows how many days of effort. A lot has changed since I started trying this and the last few months of school related chaos have certainly been the least I’ve gone rock climbing, so this one is extra special ❤️‍🔥. Can’t wait to see what’s next- onwards!! 🚀”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Paint it Black is an absolute dream problem for me and it feels so surreal to have it done after so many days of effort! I'm in school for my doctorate in Physical Therapy right now, so it's been especially hard to get out to try the last couple months and really had to make the sessions count when I could. Ultimately it came down to eating fewer nerds gummy clusters I think and playing more pickle ball during the week when I couldn't climb for the coordination!

Either way, I've probably watched the video of Daniel getting the FA 50 times since I was a kid, and spent so many hours trying over the past few seasons so this one really means a lot. Can't wait to see what's next!

How many sessions did it take and what made the trick in the end?
Ultimately too many sessions to count almost! Probably 7-8 in 2023, 10-15 in 2024 and then 1 in 2025. In the end I just needed to try really hard and maybe listen to bit of chief keef on the hike in!