Alex Ventajas, with 16 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has done Omen Nomen (9a) in Arco. (c) Crimp Films

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
I have already tried the route on two occasions. The first time was around three years ago, and I remember it felt really hard! It was spring and since the wall gets a lot of sun, the tiny holds, and slippery feet combined with hot temperatures discouraged me from trying it again. The second time was the past autumn, even if I already had another project in mind, I randomly went back to Padaro and found Simon Raffeiner trying Omen Nomen. I decided to share some tries with him and thanks to his betas I managed to do all the moves.

Even if the route caught my attention, I didn’t come back since last week. That day I had no expectations, I just wanted to revise the sequences! After warming up on the route, I gave it a second try and unexpectedly found myself falling on the last hard move before the chain!

This Monday, after five intense route-setting work days for a boulder competition and a few skins left on my fingers, I came back to Padaro! Everything flowed perfectly, letting me send the route on the first go of the day! It’s kind of strange because I have never thought about Omen Nomen as a real “project”, the send just happened!

It’s funny to see how our perception might change over the years! The first time I couldn’t fully appreciate the line but, on the contrary, the past days I found it five-star, varied and spicy, and enjoyed every move!

David Bermudez Carbonell, who sent five 9a's in 2024, has done La Bongada (8c+/9a) in Margalef and (H)as de-cotaciones (8c+) in Cuenca. (c) Nieves Ruiz

Can you tell us more about the latest hard ascents?
I went to Margalef last Christmas with the goal of improving my onsight climbing and trying to do a 9th grade route . I decided to try la Bongada, an 8c+/9a in Espadelles and I could quickly progress faster than I expected. After five days of work, I could redpoint the route after falling three times on the last hard moves. Some days before I went to Racó de Misa , where I could climb three routes onsight, an 8a, an 8a+ and Hidrofobia 8b.

Then I returned to my home crag, Cuenca. Past Saturday I could send (H)as de-cotaciones, a very solid and hard 8c+ in a total of 6 tries. I tried 3 tries on December 2024 and 3 tries on Saturday.

Alex Megos, who two days ago made the FA of Tuareg Blanco (9b/+) has flashed Tom Bolger’s Mr. Big (9a) in Margalef.

How did you prepare for the flash?
The route was right next to my project, so for 2 weeks I watched about 5 different people on the route. I had all the beta in my head after that.

It was very much in control the whole way, but I don't think it's 9a. It felt a bit easy for 9a

Tereza Širůčková, who two weeks ago did the 145 moves La Rubia (8c+) , has logged her first boulder, Forever More sit (8A+) in Brione.

Can you tell us more about sending your first hard boulder?
For me, this trip to Brione was my first bouldering trip ever. Until now, I had occasionally gone to my local crags, but those were mostly one-day trips where I just climbed whatever others were climbing. Maybe it’s because I mostly climb on a rope, so I get really scared on outdoor boulders. It’s still pretty unfamiliar for me.

On the first day we arrived, I realized it was going to be really cold for me. I was afraid I wouldn’t even be able to climb. I thought, “Maybe bouldering isn’t for me; I’m cold, and I’m scared.” But the next day was a bit better, and for the first time, I had a boulder problem I really wanted to try: Forever More Sit. I got a recommendation for it from Jana Švecová, so I knew height wouldn’t limit me too much. That day, I managed to figure out all the moves, so I had a feeling it might work. And on the next climbing day, after a rest day, I sent it! So now I guess I’m officially a boulderer. 😆

Gergő Vályi is three weeks into his one-month trip to the Lleida region, where he has climbed two 9a routes in Santa Linya.

Can you tell us more about the two ascents?
Fabela pa la enmienda (9a): I didn't expect to send it in only two days. It was really cool to come back to Santa Linya after a short Margalef trip (where 8a-s are harder for me than a 9a here). The 45 meters long route was 130 moves with my beta, and I spent 70 minutes on the wall. So big thanks @gypanni for the belaying.

At the send go, "La Fabela" 8c+ felt easy, and my arms were fresh at the good rest, so I hoped for the best. From here there is a 20 meters long 8b left, where the most of the holds good, you are at a really steep overhang, and there are some cruxes between the good rests. I almost fell from the middle part, and was so pumped when I got the last rest. Then I felt fresh again, but was afraid, that the pump will come back after 3 moves, but it doesn't happen, so I was able to go trough the last crux easily right before the chain.

Seleccio Natural (9a): It was about 7-8 tries. I knew the upper part from last year, from Digital Extension. Now I only fell before the crux, and from the really last move, as the Digital Ext. last year. It was really fustrating, mostly because of the weather. The sun wasn't really shining, because of the fog, and the temperatur was about 5 C°. Today, not just the weather, but everything was against me. The little pinch and the right hand pocket was super wet, even though I dried them up before the cilmb. And something happend with my skin on my right ring finger, so after the rest I was just slipping on my own blood. Personally a hard 9a in these conditions.

What is next?
I would like to climb some 8a-8c during the last week and maybe check the moves something harder for the next trip.