La Force Tranquille (8C) by Yannick Flohe

La Force Tranquille (8C) by Yannick Flohe

Yannick Flohé, who won the Brixen WC in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woods’ classic La force tranquille (8C) in Magic Wood.

I tried La Force on the first day of the trip after I sent New Base Line and did all the moves quickly. I couldn’t really try though due to classic Magic Wood rainy weather. From then on I tried it two more session but it got worse every day. I feel like Magic Wood in September is either way too warm or wet.

On the 4th session I managed to dry all the holds with a fan after a heavy rain and basically sent the boulder. Unfortunately the slab at the end which is about 6a was still super wet and I had no chance to top out so I came back on the next day and climbed it all the way to the top. I fell only once after the heel hook move and about 30 times at the beginning when my heel slipped after doing the big move to the slot. Anyway nice boulder I’ll come back one day for the direct finish from Jakob.”

Ainhize Belar Barrutia does Tsunami (8c)

Ainhize Belar Barrutia does Tsunami (8c)

Ainhize Belar Barrutia, who did her first 8c at age 14, has done her ninth, Tsunami (8c) in Araotz/Oñate. Earlier this year the 17-year-old also sent her first 8c+ as well as Begi puntuan (9a) and in the female redpoint ranking , she is #1. "It’s a route that I’ve always wanted to try and I looked it every time I went to the Korea sector. It took me 5 attempts in total."


by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

Niky Ceria on bouldering in Finland and climbing Silver Lining (8C)

"Silver lining is a great highball! A long-standing project in Finland that was finally put up by Andy Gullsten back in 2020. When I returned to Finland in 2021 I had 2 days on it on top-rope trying the sequences. 6 pads weren’t for me enough, so I knew I had to return more prepared. Last year this …

Two 8B+/C FA's by Cameroni in Val Bavona

Giuliano Cameroni, who has made the FA of at least 20 boulders 8B+ to 8C+, is pictured in the latest great Mellow video sending three 8B+/8C'; Peace Corps, Flip the Switch (FA) and Solar Plexus (FA).


Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him.

"This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental battle that I have ever had in my career with a route... I have never tried a route that much. This is actually the first lead route that I have tried and didn't finish in one trip. I have almost tried it for two months."

Domen Škofic flashes Muy Verdes (8c)

Domen Škofic flashes Muy Verdes (8c)

Domen Škofic, who last week did a 9a in Flatanger, has flashed Muy Verdes (8c). (c) Moritz Klee

Can you tell us more about the flash?
Special thanks to Henning Wang for explaining his beta’s 🙏🏻 I improvised at some moves especially the kneebars as they didn’t work for me again 🙃 but the rest was super useful. The route has two huge rests, so I took quite some time there. I’m not sure how long… I was very pumped when I held the jug after the last hard sequence because I messed up the beta and maybe made some moves too many, 😅 but it was still quite under control.

 Karo Sinnhuber does Invador of the Kingdom (8A+)

Karo Sinnhuber does Invador of the Kingdom (8A+)

Karoline Sinnhuber, who previously has sent 48 boulders 8A+ or 8B, has done Invader of the kingdom (8A+) in Felbertal. "No words. I can still remember the days where little Karo was in the cave with her dad and tried this boulder. Haven't been there for ages now, because the cave was literally ALWAYS wet when I drove there. Last week - same story. We somehow made it climbable with a lot of fans. Fell at the end due to a heel slip urgh. This week the cave was D R Y! Never seen it dry before!!! worked out in my 2nd go 🙂 probably an FFA."

Benn Wheeler, 18, does The Wheel of Wolvo (8B+)

Benn Wheeler, 18, does The Wheel of Wolvo (8B+)

Benn Wheeler has done his third 8B+, The Wheel of Wolvo in Mt Evans. The 18-year-old has a wide grade pyramid having done 41 boulders 8A+ and harder.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was around 7 years old because my brother climbed. I mostly did comps, but in the last 4 years, I have started bouldering outside, mostly in Pennsylvania. Last month I moved to Colorado to go to college and The Wheel of Wolvo was something I had singled out as a project before coming. It took me 5 days of effort, mostly focused on getting through the first two moves. It was awesome to meet so many strong climbers in the cave, and have steady progression to the send. Excited to move onto more, harder projects in Colorado!

What is your autumn plan and what is your long-term dream in climbing?
Keep training in the gym for the majority of my climbing, but I’ve started projecting some climbs in Wild Basin, mainly Topaz, Railway White noise.

I would like to climb v16 [8C+] by the end of college, and in my life be able to travel to my dream spots and try the best problems in the world. End of life goal is to raise triplets who all climb v19 [9B].

Niki Rusev, 17, onsights Helikopter v omaki (8b)

Niki Rusev, 17, onsights Helikopter v omaki (8b)

Niki Rusev, who last year did his third 9a, has onsighted Helikopter v omaki (8b) in Mišja Peč. "At first I wasn’t motivated to climb but later I got enthusiastic to try something doable in a day. I managed to do my first 8b onsight✊. If the grade is solid, that means this is the first 8b OS for Bulgaria 🇧🇬, which is great for the Bulgarian climbing community🙂." (c) Vladimir Pekov

Can you tell us more about the onsight?
No doubt I felt in my best shape ever but not every time it goes how I wanted to be [He was #46 in the Koper WC]. Followed by a crazy eating of a big amount of unhealthy food, the next day we went rock climbing in Osp. It was hot and humid, also I really didn’t want to climb after all that food and bad qualis but then I got enthusiastic to try something doable in a day. First I sent Baram Baram (8a+) 2nd go, then decided to try an 8b OS.

I got pumped after the second clip but the big jugs on the stalactites made me stay. It was quite a big fight with the pump to reach out at the end of the first part. I tried to go into the ext. which is 8c but immediately fell. It was great this worked out. I can’t tell if the grade is solid, but I’m still happy I’m improving my onsight style, little by little. Usually, I project something longer, but short trips give great challenges for onsights.

Nimrod Marcus does three 8B+'s in Magic Wood

Nimrod Marcus does three 8B+'s in Magic Wood

Nimrod Marcus, #5 in the World Championships 2021, has been on a ten days trip to Magic Wood where his hardest sends were; The Never Ending Story (8B+), New base line (8B+) and Mystic Stylez (8B+).

Can you tell us more about your trip?
My trip to Magic Wood was so much fun. I don't usually get the chance to climb outdoors, and Magic Wood has been a dream destination of mine for a long time. My primary objective on this trip was to conquer Mystic Stylez, a very short and powerful boulder that was also quite complex. It felt amazing to top it. I was also thrilled to have been able to tackle some classics like New Base Line, Never Ending Story, and Riverbed. I am already looking forward to my next trip to Magic Wood!

How many sessions did you need to do the three 8B+'?
For Mystic I needed 4 sessions this trip. I had already had one small session in the past. For New Base Line I needed one short session this trip, and already had a session on it last year. And for Never Ending story I just needed one short session as it really suited my style.

How often do you get chances to climb outdoors?
I try to have one trip every year, but not always can, I had 3 trips in the past: Albarraçin 2018, Ticino 2021 and Ticino 2022. Climbing in Israel is Slowly developing, we have some good rocks but not everywhere is allowed to climb. I hope in the future we will have more places to climb.

Deadlift (8B+) by Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb, who two weeks ago did the first female 8C+ boulder, has done Deadlift (8B+) in Squamish. The 26-year-old has now done seven 8B+'s in just over the last two years. She's had rapid progress, having broken into 8B and elite bouldering in 2020.

Garnbret raises RED-S awareness with Olympics

Garnbret raises RED-S awareness with Olympics has made an interview with Janja Garnbret where she addresses the eating disorder problem in competition climbing.

"This is something that really does break my heart, so that's why I decided to raise my voice there and tell my opinion because people are risking their lives for a very small part of their life called career and after that they can have serious health consequences. And this is not what we want."

The first time the eight-time world champion spoke out on the subject was in an IFSC meeting in December 2022. Two months ago, IFSC Medical Commission Doctors Volker Schöffl and Eugen Burtscher resigned in protest as a consequence of the non-action of the IFSC concerning the RED-S problems of the athletes.