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Outer ring R2 9a (+) FA by Alex Garriga

Outer ring R2 9a (+) FA by Alex Garriga

Alex Garriga reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Outer ring R2 9a (+) in Cuenca. It is an extension to an 8c he did in April which shares the top of El subnormal del antihydral r1 (9a), which he did the FA of in March. (c) David Lopez Campe

The 24-year-old has previously done close to 40 routes 9a and harder, including 13 FAs. The Spaniard is known for his hard grading and there are only about ten guys who have done more 9a's in the world.

The Dagger 8B (+) flash by Bosi and close to flash Dreamtime 8B+/C

William Bosi has had an amazing day in Cresciano where he first flashed The Dagger 8B (+) and later was very close to flash Dreamtime 8B+/C.

The Dagger: "Super happy to flash this classic!! Defiantly would have been my anti style two years ago so really psyched with my training."
Dreamtime: "Sooo good!! Was really close to the flash but slipped off after the crux. Luckily it went down soon after."

Where and how did you fall?
I fell on the flip move before the good holds just missing the hold. Basically, as it had rained so much in the last days it was just a bit humid so I was slipping down the holds I think.

How would you grade Dreamtime?
It’s hard to say, definitely soft end 8C if it is 8C.

How long will you stay in the area and what is next?
Just till Monday then I go to Arco to look at Excalibur 😁 (Ghisolfi's 9b+ project). My main goal was to try flash Off the Wagon (8B+) but it has rained so much up there that I’m not sure I’ll get to try it. br>

Are you going to focus on comps in 2023 and trying to make it to the Olympics?
I am not that keen on the current format so I won’t be trying for the 2024 Olympics. However, I’m definitely still open to comps in the future if things change.

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by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


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Sanjski par extension 9a by Jernej Kruder

Sanjski par extension 9a by Jernej Kruder

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Sanjski par extension (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec. "Countless tries over the years. Big discussion here about using kneepads...When this route was climbed back in 2004, there was no such things as rubbered kneepads. I'm not against it while doing the FA or repeating the route that was first climbed whit it, but using it here definitely changes the route. Anyways I tried it and did it without and I feel like that's one of my hardest routes I've climbed so far. I guess I managed to climb it in 2 parts very quickly, but the last half of the tries was an "easy go" in 2 parts. probably I was not in the wall for more than 2 minutes :)"

The 33-year-old has previously done nine routes 9a to 9a+ and also Es pontas (9b). He has been an active IFSC competition climber for almost 20 years. This year, he was #6 in the European Championship which he won in 2020. The Slovenian is known for not training indoors but instead mainly preparing for the comps outdoors also by doing multi-pitches.

La Castagne 9a+ by Alexander Rohr

La Castagne 9a+ by Alexander Rohr

Alexander Rohr has done the third ascent of La Castagne (9a+) in St Léger. "Nice route! Hard Boulder in the middle and then resistance climbing on crimps." (c) John Thornton

Adam Ondra did the FA in 2018 and then Alex Megos did the first repeat in 2020. Rohr has previously done 14 9a's and harder.

Can you tell us more about the route and the ascent?
The route is roughly 25 meters long and hard on the first half. The Crux is a hard boulder on maybe 7 moves, leading into a very resistant part on small crimps. The crag of St. Léger is located right underneath Mont Ventoux and hosts a ton of routes from 8a to very hard. Usually, the conditions are very dry, lots of wind and usually the temperatures are perfect. This time it was more or less the opposite. Within the two weeks of the trip we had 4 days of no climbing at all because of a completely wet crag. Several days were too hot or extremely cold. 4 good days was all we had. I knew the route from trying it three days last April after having completed Retour Gagnant, another 9a, plus some brief tries on another trip earlier this year. At the start of this trip, I was pretty sure to do it as I planned in enough time. In the end, the weather made it exciting. I had one day where I was too nervous to climb well. On all the other days, I was able to give it all and I sent on the very last opportunity before the weather changed to the worst. Having learned a thing or two on all my recent projects or failures was my biggest asset on La Castagne and it just all came together this time. There was flow in my mind even tough, it was very hard to give some good tries. Progress was made - that is all that counts and that probably is the reason why this project made me very happy.

Bügeleisen sit 8C by Niky Ceria

Bügeleisen sit 8C by Niky Ceria

Niky Ceria reports on Insta that he has repeated Nalle Hukkataival's Bügeleisen sit (8C) in Maltatal. (c) Stefan Kürzi

It was Klem Loskot who put up the stand version in 2001 as an 8B+. Then in 2014, Hukkataival added the sit start to it after a long battle saying it was one of his hardest ever. Ceria told 8a that he needed three days to do the stand and then he did the sit directly in his next session.

Ceria: "The sit start is just a different matter; more modern, I think. It forces you to stick with a diverse beta for the upper moves and it makes the stand more fluid. It represents my favorite place to start the climb and, when you sit, the feeling of looking at the line from that perspective gives you a sense of fullness."

Martina Demmel interview

Martina Demmel interview

Martina Demmel onsighted Pata pa mi 8b (a+) in 2019 after having climbed for less than three years. The next year she made it to the semifinal in her debut World Cup. In 2021, she onsighted roughly 160 routes 7c to 8b+ and became the first-ever female climber to win the 8a annual global ranking game. This year she started off in a cast, having broken her foot and in the summer she focused on the World Cup. Also this year the 21-year-old began a sport police schooling program. Her impressive resume also now includes a second 9a, which she carried out last week. (c) Felix Bub

We hear flexibility is one of your strengths?
Regarding flexibility, I'm on the lucky side which means I've always been very flexible and therefore, could do both splits without any training but since I started climbing, I enjoy doing some mobilisation/stretching for about 5mins in total each morning and evening; that's all😉... I also developed a pretty frontal static climbing style where I use a lot of high feet and 🐸 positions where the flexibility definitely helps me find a way to solve sequences with a lower level of power🧩... but that's nothing surprising I guess😜.

Do you think being flexible helps with onsighting?
Maybe, but I guess that's (onsighting) rather because of the different mindset and the fact that you have to move very intuitive what comes after more & more experience; that helps in making the right decisions quicker and more often🦎💭 While onsight climbing, I'm experiencing the purest form of flow as there's no time to think about something else what makes this so special that it feels like unpacking a present: anything can await you at any point🎁🎉😁

Can you tell us more about your police schooling program?
Since the middle of September, I'm on police school to become a Bavarian Police officer after 5 years of education👮‍♀️. It's a rather unknown program for all kinds of professional sports to allow national team members (criteria to enter the program, should be on WC level) to pursue their sports career but to also have a safe job afterward. Basically, our school time is over the double length (instead of 2,5 it's 5 years) to have enough time for training & comps. School is always from September to the end of January but we've got the luxury to be supported financially the whole time, that's why it's my job now to prepare the best possible for the comps and to move the priority away from rocks😉.

Is the Olympics one of your goals?
Paris isn't my goal as I'm only focusing on Lead the next time (bouldering only to feel more comfortable in unstable positions) & because I've actually never been attracted by the Olympics in general but maybe this changes by LA, who knows😜🙃... I'm definitely psyched to get more consistency into my WC performances and to leave the stage with a hopefully satisfying battle no matter the placement🔥😊.

How often are you able to climb outdoors?
Luckily, there's still a bit of time to head out to the crags around my home where I really need to keep up my mental well-being🦎🌞. And it seems that having school taking over a big part of my daily life now, it plays out surprisingly well in my climbing as I'm appreciating the rare time & simple things much more🦋😁 (expected to be rather stressed by forcing things in these short windows😅). Not to forget here, I'm very glad to have gotten a place at police school after trying to get in there for 2 years🙏😊 (Laser-OP for my eyes delayed everything.)

My plans for winter still have to be discussed with my coach but I'm hoping to join a few friends in Margalef in late February but the trip definitely won't be as long as the previous years😜🙈.

What does a normal week look like for you?
So normally during fall/winter, we've got police school from 7 am to 3 pm (some days start later/end earlier to get more time for training) only within this sports concept. Afterward, there's training with the German team in gyms around Munich. My routine has turned into climbing indoors on 3 afternoons during the week (no specific training yet just trying what feels out of my comfort zone💃) + a lot of stability training for my shoulder as the right one is pretty unstable🦍 and rock climbing on the weekends around home🌞... and a lot of studying in the evenings for school📚. Felt pretty strange in the beginning to have such a structure again after 3 years of mostly intuitive living but I'm enjoying it more than expected (feels amazing to be "productive" except for the lack of sleep😅).

How has the change from an onsight lifestyle to a much more structured life been?
At first, those changes felt pretty overwhelming by getting thrown into a totally new world/surroundings (for comps, police school) but I'm generally keen for new challenges that bring the necessary motivation to adapt to those situations. Most of all, I was looking forward to having something besides climbing to focus on and hopefully put off some self-made pressure on the wall (partly it's working😜💭).

Just to mention it, I still enjoy onsighting on rock probably the most but it simply isn't possible all the time/everywhere because around my home, there are mostly the really challenging routes left but that's a good reason to commit to projecting something finally🙃🦎🚀...

The Big Island 8C by Christoph Schweiger

The Big Island 8C by Christoph Schweiger

Christoph Schweiger, who was #8 in the Euro Championship, has done The Big Island (8C) in Fontainebleau. "I tried the Island the first time 3 years ago for one session and already unlocked all the moves then because of Covid and a lot of comps where my focus at the moment is, I didn’t make it back to this boulder since then. This year we had a training camp with the national for a week in Font and I spend another session there where I fell really close and ran out of power at the end of the session. Then after a rest day I came back and did it the second go after my warm-up :)"

It looks like this is your first big send this year?
I barely have had time for rock climbing this year because of a really packed competition schedule but I really enjoyed the time in Font now and already can’t wait for two weeks of Ticino for the new year.

 Nagay 8c by Camilla Bendazzoli

Nagay 8c by Camilla Bendazzoli

Camilla Bendazzoli has done Nagay (8c) in Covolo. "Covolo is my home crag so last summer I happened to go there a couple of times. I didn't know which route to try and I had always heard about Nagay being hard. Luckily I had Davide Picco with me that knew all the moves, so I went and checked if they could someway be possible for me. Apparently, the style suited me well and last month I decided to give it some serious tries and succeeded 😁." (c) Christoph Schweiger

Seb Bouin explores Champsaur

"It looks like Yosemite, but it's sandstone ... During a climbing trip in Ceuse, we were passing in this valley of Champsaur. I immediately saw this wall. It looked far away in the mountains. But you know, curiosity can bring you far away 😁. After spending an afternoon finding a path to get to the wall, I was amazed by this place and the rock. I had to come back to bolt the first line here.

When I was back in Ceuse, trying Biographie, in summer 2020, I went up for few days to bolt the first route of our French Yosemite. It was quite an expedition to brought all the bolting gear to the top of this mountain. I did many push to brought the gear during my biographie rest days. I was walking as much as possible, trying to find the way to the top. And when I was too tired, I left the gear on the mountain. Coming back the next rest day to attempt it again. I finally reached the top of the mountain, and bolted this giga route. The rock is really cool, but needed some cleaning. As it's sandstone, I remember a lot of sand falling in my eyes 👀 I guess "Sandman" is good name for this one. I was dreaming of this route before sleeping
"

Lazarus 9a+ FA by Moritz Welt

Lazarus 9a+ FA by Moritz Welt

Moritz Welt, who previously has done 16 routes 9a and harder, has made the FA of Lazarus (9a+) in Frankenjura, after some 30 sessions. (c) Lars Decker

Can you tell us more about the FA?
So the route was my main objective since last fall. It was a long-standing project bolted by Markus Bock, and I think I first tried it about 2 and a half years ago. I think it's one of the best lines around and involves some really nice movements with a lot of drop knees etc. Tho it's quite bouldery the final crux for me was power endurance. It's approx. 15m long and on the steepest part, it's about 50°.

I think it really was a good lesson in patience for me. Before trying this I'd never been able to fully focus on one single project over a longer period without getting frustrated.

Are there still many bolted projects in Frankenjura?
I only know a few, not more than 10, and some of them might be even impossible... but I think there is still a bit of potential for bolting new stuff.

What are your winter plans?
Now I'm training for bouldering mostly, already having a Ticino trip planned for end of december/beginning of January.