Eugenia Lavrushkina does Amores Perros (8A+)

Eugenia Lavrushkina, who started climbing at age 26, ten years ago, has done Amores perros (8A+) in Borzeta. ”I've been avoiding this problem for a long time because I've never thought of myself as a roof climber, and the first crux of Amores Perros is a roof. As I went back from my Fontainebleau trip in October and decided to give it a try. I managed to do all the moves (along with some shorter links) during the first session and thought I would send it fast.. but then somehow I had to spend a couple of sessions linking the roof part because (even though I had no problems with it during the first session) I simply wasn't able to get through it. After some time (due to bad weather conditions) I got back to the boulder and spent 3 sessions falling on the last move (not counting the mantle as it is easy), and then finally I managed to link everything! I am sooo happy to send my project now, taking into account that I am going to Font trip this week, so the time pressure was real.

Can you tell us about your climbing background?
I've been climbing for a little bit less than 10 years, and for the last 3-4 years I've been focusing more on outdoor bouldering (Fontainebleau is my top favourite area). Amores Perros is a great boulder problem with really cool moves, athletic and technical at the same time, but my fav is still Les Beaux Quartiers (8A) in Font, which I sent in April less than a year ago. It's critical to stress that a tremendous amount of credit for all my hard sends goes to my coaches, Maciej Oczko and Nina Gmiter (Motion Lab Sports Kraków) as they are the ones who make sure I am constantly progressing as a climber. When I came to them (exactly three years ago) my max grade was 7c boulder. They are magicians :) I sent my first 7c+ in a couple of months after that so seeing the progress I became really really determined and it paid off.

How do you train?
Usually I climb 4 times a week (sometimes 5 but it is rare), there are some micro-cycles and other cycles, but I am not an expert in that so cannot really say more. I discuss with coaches my climbing goals (trips, grades, expectations etc) and they take care of those cycles :). We're using de-load weeks here and there, I know there is a trend nowadays to train without them but [de-loading], works for me. So those 4/5 training days really depend on a cycle, sometimes it's more strength oriented, sometimes power-endurance etc. In terms of intensity it also depends, usually it is 1 or 2 really intense workouts per week and the rest is like 70% of the max or even lower (esp during a de-load phase). I've been focusing on technique a lot as sometimes I tend to rely on pure strength too much.

Once or twice a week I do hangboarding, lately it's been one-arm hangs mostly and it seems I've [made] quite a progress with those (especially after I started taking care of my shoulders after I had a shoulder impingement). My wild guess is that rotator cuff strengthening contributed a lot to one-arm hangs on a fingerboard.

As I already mentioned I am pretty determined and it helps me immensely to get through some types of workouts I don't enjoy. Like... any type of conditioning (I do this twice a week). Or hangboarding. Or campusing. Well, anything that is not climbing to be honest. And, [I] don't do stretching at all, almost never, perhaps I should but I simply cannot make myself do that and even determination cannot help me here....

Leo Bøe ticks Era Vella (9a)

Leo Bøe has done Era Vella (9a) in Margalef. The classic 50m long line FA'd by Chris Sharma was, for many years, the most repeated 9a in the world but then it got downgraded and lost some of its appeal. However, due to more recent hold breakage, 9a is once again being claimed. “Beyond happy with this route! So fun to work and always a fight vs the pump. Who is crazy enough to bolt a line like this…?? I would like to thank all the people who came with me and got me motivated to try hard! 9 days of effort.”

Can you tell us more about Era Vella and your personal journey on it?
I did all the moves on my first round, but I realized it would be a proper fight to link all of them together. For me to send the route I had to get out of my comfort zone and enjoy getting pumped out of my mind. In my attempts I fell and went right back on until I reached the anchor. During a session I would do a run from bottom to the top 3-4 times and would need 2 full rest days to recover. Suddenly when I managed to do the route with 1 fall I knew it was about to happen. I was so close, and suddenly falling at the last quickdraw… Usually people don’t fall at that point, but for me the redpoint crux was just doing the last few easy moves.

What about the backflip? How long was the fall?
I was full of adrenaline! I just unclipped the anchor and jumped. I fell to the first quickdraw after the no hands rest so possibly a 30m fall. I have never done something like that before.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo makes the third ascent of Sleeping Lion

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the third ascent of Chris Sharma's Sleeping Lion in Siurana. Sharma proposed 9b+, but the second ascensionist, Alex Megos felt that 9b was the appropriate grade. Díaz-Rullo yet to comment on the difficulty. (c) Marco Zanone

Diaz-Rullo comments on Instagram; "Between some things and others, this route has taken me more attempts than I originally thought. It has been very difficult to find the day without being too tired, with good skin and with good conditions here in Siurana.

Sleeping lion has helped me to get in shape and continue very motivated with my next projects, but also, it has served me as a learning experience because at the same time I was working on it I have not been going through my best stage on a personal level. In the end, I did it!"

Martina Demmel makes second try ascents of Pati Noso (8c+) and Margalefas (8c)

Martina Demmel first made a second try send of Margafelas (8c) in Margalef. "A surprise at the end of the day. [It] Has the potential for a big classic but unfortunately, a bit crumbly since I even broke 2 edges while sending... not the style you would expect when it's named after the area... found some solid beta & probably my style;)" (c) Vera Bakker

The following day she kept her second try streak going by doing the same with Pati noso (8c+) in Siurana. "I was dreaming about this line for years! While checking the moves on the new upper part, I got a big flapper from the crux hold but somehow, the strong wind kept pushing me to the top the next (2nd) try!! Muchas gracias Marius & Olga! Riding that wave..."

Over the last three years, the German has been the best female onsight climber in the world with 38 onsights 8a+ to 8b+.

Have you tried any harder onsights or anything a little more long-term on this trip?
Not really but somehow I also haven't tried [to onsight] anything in the 8a+-8b+ range, so I don't know if it would have been possible... I've tried something harder but now the weather seems not ideal to go back to the shade [where it's located]. Mostly, I feel too mentally tired to keep pushing or "forcing" myself to use the last few days to try something what for the moment might be out of my reach... So, I'm probably gonna try some single day projects or anything I'm truly motivated for the last few days [in order] to feel recharged when I [soon] go back to training!

Marine Thevenet adds a few 8A+'s and more to her done list

Marine Thevenet, who has done over 100 boulders 8A and harder, reports on Insta video that over the last seven weeks she has sent Nobody ist der Größte (8A), Sissyfuss (8A+) and The Great Shark Hunt (8A+) in Chironico as well as Darkness (8A+) in Brione.

Which boulder was most special or meant the most to you?
Haha the most special… maybe Sissyfuss. I injured my pulley on it back in the day and it was really challenging to go back to it. The first move requires pure strength and when I tried the boulder this winter I would have been happy to complete just that one move, as a form of revenge and progress. I actually managed to do that move several times and [then I] fell at the mantle because I didn’t check the beta.

What is next?
Ticino offers a lifetime list of boulders to try - so it is not difficult to find other projects. I am motivated to enjoy the process of projecting on harder climbs for me, it is something I want to experiment these [coming] days.

13 year-old Meini Li ticks Tornado (8c+)

Meini Li, who did her first 8c at age 10, has redpointed the 40 m long Tornado (8c+) in Yangshuo. The 13-year-old Chinese climber needed six days and 13 attempts for the send. (c) Liu ”Karma” Chuang

Jonathan Siegrist completes Me I Eat Dust (9a+)

Jonathan Siegrist, who has 75 routes 9a to 9b under his belt, has completed Me I Eat Dust (9a+) at the Unknown Crag in central Texas. (c) Ryan White

2nd ascent of this obscure, intense and amazing route from Cody Roth. Very cool precision style with no rests. Massive thanks to the crew here and to Cody for the motivation! I made rapid progress in my first few days but I underestimated how hard the final moves would be from the ground... My preparation felt to be perfect - so happy to fight through it last night!

It climbs the crux of a 8c+ called ‘I Me Mine’ and then without rest does a long and amazing V12 [8A+] boulder problem”


How many sessions did you put in?
I tried it once when I was visiting 3 years ago and loved the movement. As for working sessions not sure. Been here for 2 weeks but I had some trouble with conditions - it’s so hard to get it perfect here as the cliff faces the sun and the winters are very short in Texas! For this reason night sessions are best.

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was the third 9A for the former competitive climber who has already completed Burden of Dreams (9A) and Alphane (9A). The 25-year-old stopped competing in 2021 after having had his best year in 2019, twice placing fourth in the World Cup. (c) Teresa Coimbra

Coming out to Las Vegas, I had no idea how this trip was going to go as I do not climb on sandstone often and Sleepwalker did not look my style. Sending Sleepwalker 8C/V15 in only three days completely blew my mind and having a long time left on the trip, I was pretty confident I could have a good stab at getting Return of the Sleepwalker done.

In the last session before the send, everything just clicked. I was feeling confident but as the weather forecast looked bleak with a storm closing in, I was only able to take one rest day before heading back out for another session. I still felt quite tired so I was unsure about even trying it. However, after warming up, the moves were feeling great and I decided to give it a go. The first attempt went perfectly up to the sloper but then I really messed up the next move through to the slot and almost dropped it. Somehow, I recovered and hit the last hard move perfectly. Pulling onto the slab was incredible and I had to take a minute to get my breath back before heading up to the top.

Grade wise I still believe the stand start is only 8C/V15 but I do think the sit start adds enough for it to remain 9A/V17. In comparison to the other climbs I have done at this grade, I think Return of the Sleepwalker comes in around the bottom end of the grade. Burden of Dreams was harder but it is such a different style. [However] I think ‘Return’ probably came in harder than Alphane. Currently, I am very unsure about the distinction between 8C+ and 9A and I think it will take some time and a broader consensus of climbers operating at this level to get the distinction right.

My next project is dependent on conditions but I would love to head back to Arco and try to finish Excalibur (Stefano Ghisolfi’s 9b+/5.15c) or back to Brno to work more on Terranova. I would also love to spend some time finding new lines in Scotland but the weather seems to always be against that!”


Did you find and use any new beta for the send?
I used different beta on the lower section but it’s actually not new and was the original beta Daniel was trying. I do think it’s easier beta though (definitely for me anyway)!

How was day one and your first impression?
Just pure psych on the first day. I couldn’t believe I had made it to the boulder and it really is as good as people say.

Adam Ondra does Narcissus (9a) second go

Adam Ondra has done Narcissus (9a) in Oltrefinale / Albenga, on his second go. “Amazing line by Matteo Gambaro. Me and Seb [Bouin] we both used kneepads and took kind of different direction/beta on the very top (what we believe is more intuitive) which makes it much easier. and I think it could be soft 9a like this. The way Matteo did it is much harder and could be even 9a+?” (c) Jara Sijka

The 40 meter route is a link up of two 8b+’ with a hard roof section in between, Gambaro was 45 when he did the FA.

Adam has also added two more 8c+'s to his scorecard meaning that he is fast approaching 500 ascents 8c+ and harder.

Vitamania (8c+) - ” Did it in the evening after sending Bon Voyage (2 tries), more filming in BV and on the way down, I checked it for 10min, rested 3mins and did it with headlamp. Probably soft 8c+?”

Stéroïde bul (8c+) - ” So close to flash after Jules showed me the moves.”