Gonzalo Larrocha has done
Selección anal del fuego (9a+) in Santa Linya, which is a new 15 m exit to Selecció anal (9a+). On the original route, he broke his pinky while using a mono, and over the course of several years, he made “hundreds” of attempts. In total, the 40-year-old, who did his first 8c+ at age 27, has done some 120 routes 8c+ and beyond. (c) Mar Diaz Miranda
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
For me, it has been the most difficult route, mentally and physically. I spent several years trying out the moves, looking for different methods, I injured my little finger, I went half crazy. Finally, I started trying an exit towards "Stoking the fire" to avoid the hole where I had injured myself. The day of the chaining was strange. It was wet and I didn't feel very energetic. On the first try I fell in the lower area, which is common with natural selection, I have done this area of hard 8c+ more than 20 times in the last few years.
On the second try, after passing the lower part and having a good rest, I went out to try the block that I had tried so many times, suddenly I found myself passing the last move of that block. There were still 15 meters of 7c+ left with some steps that made me nervous, but little by little I overcame the moves and I was able to clip the chain of my eternal project. At that moment I screamed with rage, because of what I had caused myself, an unparalleled obsession to do this route.
I would also like to thank all my friends who have not told me to go to hell for being so annoying with this route. Especially Pol, with whom I have been training, and Silvia, who has had to put up with me being sad at times.