Mathieu Bouyoud has done the FA of Team frisouille 9a+ in La Balme. "It is a very old technical project bolted by Cyrille Bouchard, a local climber. It is 30 meters long and shares the first five bolts with an 8c. I tried it for the first time in 2013 and since I have tried it every September when it is all dry and have cold conditions. So happy to finish the job 🙏"
Previously, the 31-year-old has done 27 9a's and one 9a+. The latter was a FA he did in 2015, which is still unrepeated and that goes also for some of his 12 9a FAs.
Kokoro Fujii was the only one topping the first boulder. In fact, he flashed it at the same time no other did get the zone. Then, after he had done the following two boulders in just three attempts, he had secured the gold. Runner-up was Tomoa Narasaki getting three tops followed by Manuel Cornu with two tops. Fujii has previously won four World Cups between 2016 - 2018. (c) Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC
1. Kokoro Fujii JPN 44
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 33
3. Manuel Cornu FRA 23 (2)
4. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 23 (7)
5. Nimrod Marcus ISR 2 (9)
6. Anze Peharc SLO 2 (10)
Ramon Julian Puigblanque, one of the best Lead competition climbers in the history, reports on Insta that he has done Wild West 9a/+ in Margalef. The 39-year-old has previously done 73 routes 8c+/9a and harder meaning he is #4 on that list. The 158 cm tall is well known for his hard gradings and in his scorecard he has just 51 routes 9a and harder recorded.
Katie Lamb has done her second 8B+, New base line in Magic Woods. In the 8a ranking game, the 24-year-old is #2. "Changed shirts and found some try hard. Perfect finish to a week in the woods with keen and the euro trip. Scalers gon scale." (c) Keenan Takahashi
Natalia Grossman, who won the qualification and the semi, is the new Boulder World Champion after having topped all boulders in seven attempts. Three of the boulders she flashed and she was actually in another league and as usually smiling her way up to the top. Runner-up was Camilla Moroni who needed 13 attempts and she was so happy so she started crying. Overall it was possibly the best female Boulder final for many years and Stasa Gejo got the bronze by doing two bronzes. Chris Danielson and his route setting team were again spot on creating spectacular boulders where we often did see different beta. (c) Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC
1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 (7)
2. Camilla Moroni ITA 44 (13)
3. Stasa Gejo SRB 24
4. Elena Krasovskaia RUS 23 (2)
5. Brooke Raboutou USA 23 (3)
6. Andrea Kümin SUI 13
It should be mention that Natalia is also #1 in the Boulder World Cup when only one event remains and her worst result is #3 in Boulder. In the Lead WC, she was runner up after having been Top-3 in the last four competitions. Add to that eleven boulders 8A to 8B and it is easy to already say who have made the biggest breakthrough in 2021. Here is a video presentation of the smiling climber.
Natalia Grossman won the semifinal by topping out all four boulders in eight attempts. Camilla Moroni was runner-up needing 15 attempts. The remaining four making it to the final that starts at 16.40, Euro Time, was Elena Krasovskaia, Andrea Kümin, Brooke Raboutou and Stasa Gejo. Complete results.
Baptiste Dherbilly reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Mandallaz Drive 9a in Allonzier la Caille. It was put up by Fred Rouling in 2004, video. Baptiste, who previously has done the first repeat also of Rouhling's 9a+ Salamandre, has projected it for three years. (c) Mathieu Pisaniello
Why do you think it has not been repeated for 17 years?
I think it’s the style of the route. It’s old school with very small holds so it’s not a popular route. It’s very specific and bouldery on the first twelve movements (8B bouldering ). After you have to climb an 8c. The whole route is very technical with a strange beta! It’s incredible for me to do it after so many years and attempts. A lot of specific training and perseverance was needed.
What kind of and how much specific training was needed? Replica?
Strength finger, Heel hooking, One finger pocket and power endurance. I began to work on Mandallaz Drive three years ago. During periods of bad weather or hot conditions, I climb on the indoor wall in the same style, or on a replica. Also, Moonboarding and dead-hang really helped me.
What is next?
I want to try Empreinte to see if it’s possible for me. It’s the last one of Fred none repeated routes. But there are so many unknown lines. They are waiting to be discovered!
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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