Adam Ondra comes clean in Beyond focus talking about that he is most of all a lifestyle rock climber at the same time he loves competitions. There he learns about his person and possibly it is also about the ego, showing that you are the best during the day. The preparation is like ways also something he loves. Out of all great Ondra video's, this is one of the best and there are three more episodes describing his inner journey to look forward to.
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has made the third ascent of Samfaina 9a (+) in Margalef. Both Sharma and Ramon Julian Puigblanque, who did the second ascent in 2010, called it 9a but Jorge says it feels more like 9a+ in comparison to the other 9a's in the sector. At the same time, he says on Insta. "A route with a little endurance but with two really hard moves, my antistyle 👊"
(c) Adri Martinez
The 22-year-old Spaniard has now done 45 routes 9a to 9b, meaning he is #8 on that list. If we only count the last three years, he is probably #3 after Adam Ondra and Alex Megos.
TOP IMAGES OF THE WEEK
Stefan Scherz, who previously has done two 9a's, has done Papichulo (9a+) in Oliana. Amazingly the 20-year-old broke his foot in September and did wear a cast until like three before he started projected it and then sent it within a week. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca
How was this fast recovery possible?
I had to wear a cast for like five weeks but it didn’t matter that much because I did lots of one foot climbing to gain fitness for the route which turned out to be a good method of training for me. I did lots of exercises to strengthen my foot again so that it works normally. As my foot got better and better, I started to climb with two feet again. Four weeks of climbing with two feet I sent Papichulo, my very first 9a+, and hopefully not the last ;)
What type of accident did you have?
I had a bike accident, where I fell unfortunately and broke my right metatarsal bone.
What is your next plan and what about comps in 2022?
I'm going back to Innsbruck to train for the upcoming World Cup season.
In 2019, the Austrian won four European Youth Cups/Championships in three disciplines.
Solveig Korherr has done Fifty Words for Pump 8c (+) in Red River Gorge (KY). "Hard boulder problem at the beginning into kneebar heaven. Big fight at the end of the day. I can‘t believe I stayed on the wall after feeling so tired already :D A Muerte!"
The picture by Jon Shen is from Zookeeper (8b+) which she did three days later. The 23-year-old german is #1 in the 8a ranking game.
Alex Megos reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Will Bosi's Furia de Jabali (9b) in Siurana. In total, the German has now done some 100 routes 9a and harder including six 9b or 9b+. Last week he did the first repeat of Bosi's King Capella 9b+. No grade comment by Megos of none of the two recent Bosi routes.(c) Jenya Kazbekova
So which one do you personally think is the hardest?
I'd say King Capella is harder. It took me longer despite me being more focused to climb King Capella.
Last week, Alex also gave us some insights in regards to the environmental "catastrophe" and some recent changes he has done in his life.
Jacopo Larcher, one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world, has done the first repeat of Bernd Zangerl's Into the Sun 8c+ trad in Murgtal. The Italian has previously done a handful trad routes 8b+ and harder including Tribe which just might be the only 9a trad in the world. Lately Larcher has not given grades to many of his hardest climbs. (c) Andrea Cossu
"Into the sun is located on a big boulder, which hosts several problems, and it traverses the entire block from the right to the left. The route is basically a top out of Bernd’s existing highball called “V.I.P. (Very Important Papagei)”, which ends on a jug next to a bolted belay. This is by far the hardest part of the entire climb; after skipping the bolts, you traverse left on an obvious big crack and top out on the other side of the boulder with a slightly harder mantle. This very last section has been climbed as a highball stating from a different problem. The climbing is easy, but the rock is often wet and doesn’t seem always solid, that’s why I think it makes even more sense to climb it on gear instead of doing it as a highball. As a trad climber, that’s exactly how I would do it.
So now the big question, which everyone is asking me, is… What is “Into the sun”? Is it a (green point) trad climb or an highball? How can we describe it? Honestly for me the biggest question is another one… Do we need to give a name to everything and fit in into a box? I personally don’t think so! For me "Into the sun" is Bernd’s vision of how to climb a nice piece of rock. It was the way how he challenged himself and got back to climbing after an injury, which according to the doctors wouldn’t allow him to climb anymore. He managed to overcome this huge challenge and set a new one for the other climbers. I take it on, found it really hard and I really enjoyed the process. That’s what I believe climbing should be. Someone else would have bolted, someone else would have chipped it, someone else would have free solo it and probably the most part would have never imagined to climb it… I think he did it in the best style and I personally would have done it the same way if this would have been my FA. The only thing I would have done different is the start, for me it would have make more sense to stat from the stand start of the boulder, instead of adding the first few hard moves… but once again, that’s exactly the cool thing about climbing, everyone sees something different. Thanks again for the experience Bernd and props for the FA.
… and of course big thanks to Babsi, Mauro, Andrea and Michi for the support. It wouldn’t have been possible without you!"
Zach Galla who did his first 8C+ two weeks ago has done Pegasus (8C) in Joe's Valley (UT). "Pegasus went fast! got close last weekend, rested up over the week, then finished it up on Saturday in a few tries. The crux fit my style well and I really enjoyed climbing on this roof. Great addition from Drew!"
Jenny Jiang has done A Maze of Death (8A+) in Bishop (CA) and amazingly it took her just one hour. This was the 20-year-old's seventh 8A and harder in since July. "What a beautiful climb!! Managed to send in about an hour, felt pretty soft but to be fair it was very my style...psyched regardless."
How can you explain your extreme progress in 2021 and what about going for an 8B?
Not sure honestly, I’m just really psyched anytime I get the chance to climb outside! Haha trying to get on some new projects soon! 👀
Jenya Kazbekova, who previously has done four 8c's and harder back home in Crimea, has done Palindrome 8c in Siurana. "It took me three days to climb Palindrome. I climbed three days in a row and on the third day I was so tired, I didn't think I could climb it anymore. But Alex sent King Capella on that day, and I got very inspired. I decided to try, despite the tiredness. First, try I did to check out the moves and warm up again, then on the second try of that day, I did it." (c) Esteban Lahoz
How was that injury you had back in February this year and what is the status?
I had a bad fall in the bouldering gym, dislocated my elbow and ruptured ligaments, needed surgery to fix it. I'm not really fully recovered, my arm is still not fully straight and it is still painful to extend, but I'm able to climb again since June
How long will you stay in Spain and what about comps in 2022?
Only one more week in Siurana and a few more in Margalef. Yes, I'm planning on competing again🙏🏼.
The Ukrainian has been competing actively since 2010 when she won the Youth World Championship. Last year, she finished off by being #7 in the Combined World Champion. Her father, Serik, was also an active competition climber getting silvers in all three disciplines besides winning once in Boulder. Her mother, Natalia Perlova, has won a World Cup in Boulder and in Speed, she once made the podium.
Marcello Bombardi, who won the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in 2017, has done Ziqqurat (8C) in Gaby. On Insta he reports that he first tried it in 2017 but it was not until one month ago he managed to do all moves, when he saw Elias Iagnemma do it quicḱly.
"I was falling multiple times in the end, after the crux, between the 20th and 23rd move of the 24 in total (the embarrassment of falling there as a lead climber was quite high😅). Meanwhile, the climbing season in Gaby was coming to an end, as usual, I was late starting to try it, but one last day of stable weather and good physical shape was enough to send this beast!"
What are your winter plans and what about comps in 2022?
I don't have another project on the rock yet but I will find one quickly! Then in January, I will start the training for next year competition season. We still have to discuss and organize the plan with the federation but I think I will start to put some focus again on the combined.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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