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 Alberto Ginés López (ESP) wins gold in extraordinary show and drama

Alberto Ginés López (ESP) wins gold in extraordinary show and drama

Alberto Ginés López (ESP) is the first Olympic Gold medallist in Sport Climbing. Nathaniel Coleman (USA) took silver. Jakob Schubert (AUT) won Bronze. The big favourites for gold, Adam Ondra (CZE) and Tomoa Narasaki, (JPN) narrowly missed the podium. Narasaki's slip in the speed stage final probably cost him the gold.
The lead stage could not have been more dramatic. The routesetters (Adam Pustelnik (POL), Jan Zbranek (CZE), Hiroshi Okano (JPN) and Akito Matsushima (JPN)) set a fantastic final route, that got a Top and on which every climber went into fighting mode.

Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert both needed to win the stage in order to get a medal. Schubert was last out, after Ondra reached 42+. Alberto Ginés López was #1 overall after having climbed to hold 38+ but could lose the gold to Adam Ondra, depending on the results for Schubert. As Schubert grabbed hold #39, Ondra was in the gold position for some seconds before Schubert, in full control got to hold #43, moving Ondra to 6th position and Alberto getting back his gold. Then Schubert topped out, apparently with power to spare, creating an extraordinary show and drama that will go to the history books. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11



Combined Final Results
1 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1 * 7 4 = 28
2 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6 * 1 * 5 = 30
3 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 7 * 5 * 1 = 35
4 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2 * 3 * 6 = 36
5 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 * 2 * 7 = 42
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) 4 * 6 * 2 = 48
7 Duffy Colin (USA) 5 * 4 *3 = 60
- Mawem Bassa (FRA) DNS

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Coleman wins bouldering - Tied #1 with Mawem and Narasaki before Lead

Coleman wins bouldering - Tied #1 with Mawem and Narasaki before Lead

Big drama in the Bouldering final where Nathaniel Colman (USA) won with two tops. The ranks 2 - 5 were decided by number of attempts to the zone on the second boulder as they all flashed the first boulder and then flashed the zone on the last boulder. Mickael Mawem was ranked as #2 as he was the only one flashing all three zones.
Adam Ondra, who looked strongest on the last boulder, was ranked #6.
As it stands, it is a totally open affair among Mawem, Narasaki (JPN) and Coleman, all tied with six points and Alberto Ginés López with seven points. By using the qualifying rankings, Alberto will take the gold ahead of Coleman. Jakob Schubert would go from the bottom in the field to a bronze.

1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 * 2 (1T3z 1 3) = 6
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2 * 3 (1T3z 1 5) = 6
3 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6 * 1 (2T3z 4 4)= 6 (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11

4 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1 * 7 (0T3z 0 9) = 7
5 Duffy Colin (USA) 5 * 4 (1T3z 1 5) = 20
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) 4 * 6 (1T2z 2 2) = 24
7 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 7 * 5 (1T3z 1 7) = 35
8. Mawem Bassa (FRA) - | DNS - | DNS - | - DNS

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The stars aligned for Speed winner Alberto Ginés López (ESP)

The stars aligned for Speed winner Alberto Ginés López (ESP)

In the first ever Olympic final stage, Spanish lead specialist Alberto Ginés López took first place in Speed. In his first race, his opponent Colin Duffy (USA) false started, then Ginés López beat Adam Ondra, who had had a free pass to Top 4 after Bassa Mawem’s DNS due to injury. In the final heat, Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) slipped on the so-called Tomoa start, and Ginés López didn’t let his chance pass. The young Spaniard now has excellent chances for a medal due to the multiplication format. In practice, he most probably only needs to be #5 in one of the remaining disciplines.

Mikael Mawem (FRA) placed third, after some slips on his race against Narasaki. Notable was Adam Ondra setting an impressive PB of 6.86s on what might have been the last speed run of his career. Nathaniel Coleman (AUT) finished 6th and Jakob Schubert (AUT) finished 7th. While nothing is decided, Ginés López and Ondra have gotten a great start.

Speed Stage Results

1 Ginés López Alberto 6.42 (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11
2 Narasaki Tomoa 7.82
3 Mawem Mickael 6.47
4 Ondra Adam 6.86
5 Duffy Colin 6.35
6 Coleman Nathaniel FALL
7 Schubert Jakob WILDCARD
8 Mawem Bassa DNS

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"Adam Ondra walked in like he owned the place"

"Adam Ondra walked in like he owned the place"

Jon Glassberg, 8a member who has done 8C, reports through his Insta, " The bus dropped off the competitors and @adam.ondra walked in like he owned the place. With Bassa out because of an injury, Adam is going to walk into bouldering with at least a 4 ranking. "

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Live scoring and How to watch 10.30 Euro Time

Follow the live scoring on Olympics.com as well as stay updated on the calculation of the results throughout the day. IFSC has put together a list Where to watch Sport Climbing at the Olympic Games 2020

In Germany, ARD Sportschau is streaming live.
ZDF is also streaming live.
In Austria, ORF and ORF Sport Plus is streaming live. Katharina Saurwein is commentating.
In Poland player.pl has a Eurosport package with full Games streaming.
In France, France.tv is showing climbing.
In Czech Republic, Ceska Televize is showing climbing.
In Europe, a Eurosport Player subscription also allows you to choose the sport you want to watch (ca. 7€/month) and can be purchased in most countries.
Please post in the comments what the best options in your country are and we will update this news item.

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Chaehyon Seo (KOR) wins Lead and puts pressure on Garnbret

Chaehyon Seo (KOR) wins Lead and puts pressure on Garnbret

Once again great route setting and a great show but no Top. The big sensation was that Janja Garnbret (SLO) was only #4 and ten moves behind 17-year-old Chaehyon Seo (KOR). On the other hand, in 2019 Seo did win over Garnbret in four World Cups out of six. Runner-up was Jessica Pilz (AUT), who injured a finger badly in May, followed by Akiyo Noguchi (JPN). Interesting was also that Speed specialist Anouck Jaubert (FRA) followed up her great Bouldering performance by being #15. This means that two Speed specialists have qualified for the final. The biggest setback was Laura Rogora (ITA) being #10 after having struggled doing practically all, somewhat reachy moves, right from the start. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder than 11

1 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 40+
2 Pilz Jessica (AUT)33+
3 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 30+
4 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 30
5 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 29+
6 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 27+
7 Krampl Mia (SLO) 26+ (3:16)
8 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 26+ (3:40)
9 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 25+
10 Rogora Laura (ITA) 25
11 Condie Kyra (USA) 22+
12 Yip Alannah (CAN) 21+ (2:14)
13 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 21+ (2:23)
14 Klingler Petra (SUI) 16+ (1:49)
15 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 16+ (2:14)
16 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 15+
17 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 14+
18 SONG YiLing (CHN) 13+
19 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 12
20 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 20 7+

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Combined after 2/3 stages

Combined after 2/3 stages

Here is the results after 2/3 stages. All the favourites have set themselves in a good position in order to advance to the final. For the male, 550 points were needed to make it to the Top-8. We have added a speculation Lead score for each woman in order to get as close to 500 points as possible. The biggest sensation is that there are actually chances to have two female Speed specialists into the final, as Anouck Jaubert should get below 500 points. However, it is very hard to predict which score is needed to make the final. It just might be closer to 400. On the picture by Jon Glassberg/Louder than 11 is Viktoriia Meshkova who probably needs to be Top-5 in order to make the final.

1 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 14 * 1 = 14
2 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 20 * 1 = 20
3 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 12 * 2 = 24
4 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 2 *13 = 26 ( * 19 speculated in Lead = 494)
5 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 9 * 3 = 27 ( * 19 = 513)
6 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 4 * 8 = 32 ( * 16 = 512)
7 SONG YiLing (CHN) 3 * 19 = 57 ( * 9 = 513)
8 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 16 * 4 = 64 ( * 7 = 448
9 Condie Kyra (USA) 7 * 11 = 77 ( * 6 = 462)
10 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 17 * 5 = 85 ( * 6 = 510)
11 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 5 * 18 = 90 ( * 5 = 450)
12 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 15 * 5 = 90 ( * 5 = 450)
13 Yip Alannah (CAN) 6 * 16 = 96 ( * 5 = 480)
14 Pilz Jessica (AUT) 11 * 9 = 99 ( * 5 = 499)
15 Klingler Petra (SUI) 10 * 10 = 100 ( * 5 = 500)
16 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 8 * 15 = 120 ( * 4 = 480)
17 Rogora Laura (ITA) 19 * 7 = 133 ( * 3 = 399)
18 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 13 * 12 = 156 ( *3 = 468)
19 Krampl Mia (SLO) 18 * 14 = 252 ( *2 = 504)
20 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 20 * 17 = 340 ( * 1 = 340)

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Janja Garnbret dominates Boulder stage with 4 flashes

Janja Garnbret (SLO), who was #14 in Speed, came back in the fantastic style she is famous for by flashing all the four great dynamic boulders. All the favourites made good performances. Ranked second and third were Brooke Raboutou (USA) and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN). The only medal favourite not really coming up to her normal standard was Miho Nonaka being #8. Just ahead was Laura Rogora, who saved her day by getting one boulder in her first try just after having gotten only the zone on the first two boulders. The biggest sensation was that Speed specialist Anouck Jaubert #13 with one top.

1 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 4T4z 4 4
2 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 3T4z 4 4
3 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 3T4z 5 4
4 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 2T4z 3 4
5 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 2T4z 5 5
6 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 2T4z 8 5
7 Rogora Laura (ITA) 1T4z 1 5
8 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 1T3z 2 3
9 Pilz Jessica (AUT) 1T3z 3 5
10 Klingler Petra (SUI) 1T3z 3 8
11 Condie Kyra (USA) 1T3z 4 5
12 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 1T2z 3 2
13 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 1T1z 4 1
14 Krampl Mia (SLO) 0T4z 0 5
15 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 0T3z 0 9
16 Yip Alannah (CAN) 0T2z 0 2
17 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 0T1z 0 1
18 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 0T1z 0 2
19 SONG YiLing (CHN) 0T1z 0 5
20 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL)

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Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) wins Speed stage at 6.97

Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) wins Speed stage at 6.97

Lots of emotions, personal bests and big smiles in the female Speed qualification. Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) set two PB's and won the stage. She set the Olympic Record with a time of 6.97, just 0.01 seconds away from the world record. This means that the Pole has very excellent chances of qualifying for the final. The biggest frustration we saw from the world record holder Iuliia Kaplina slipping on the very last foothold when it looked like she was going to set a new world record. Miho Nonaka looked to be in superb speed shape, setting a great PB with 7.55. The big favourite to win the gold, Janja Garnbret, with a PB of 7.91, slipped in both races and got 9.41 but it actually did not look like she is in supershape. Alannah Yip's 7.99 should also be mentioned and she just might be an outsider getting into the final although she has not done any World Cups in 2021.

1 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 6.97 (OR)
2 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 7.12
3 SONG YiLing (CHN) 7.46
4 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 7.55
5 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 7.65
6 Yip Alannah (CAN) 7.99
7 Condie Kyra (USA) 8.08
8 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 8.17
9 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 8.23
10 Klingler Petra (SUI) 8.42
11 Pilz Jessica (AUT) 8.51
12 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 8.67
13 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 8.83
14 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 9.44
15 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 9.54
16 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 9.65
17 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 10.01
18 Krampl Mia (SLO) 10.43
19 Rogora Laura (ITA) 10.50
20 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 11.10

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Female personal PB's

Offical Speed personal best rankings: (It should be noted that most of the athletes have made faster times during practice and non-official competitions.)

6.96 Iuliia Kaplina RUS
7.10 YiLing Song CHI
7.12 Alexandra Miroslaw POL
7.32 Anouck Jaubert FRA

7.91 Janja Garnbret SLO
8.19 Miho Nonaka JPN
8.43 Kyra Condie USA
8.45 Oceania Mackenzie AUS
8.59 Petra Klingler SUI
8.73 Julia Chanourdie
9.11 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
9.12 Brooke Raboutou USA
9.14 Shauna Coxey GBR
9.16 Viktoria Meshkova RUS (8.64 in training)
9.16 Alannah Yip CAN
9.43 Mia Krampl SLO
9.56 Jessica Pilz AUT
10.51 Laura Rogora ITA
10.70 Chaehyun Seo KOR

12.04 Erin Sterkenburg RSA

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