Sera Gearhart ticks Lone Wolf (8A+)

Sera Gearhart, who just the last year has sent 18 boulders 8A and beyond, has done Lone Wolf (8A+) in Burnside Lake. In the VL ranking game, the 27-year-old is #2 after Caroline Sinno.

It’s a link up near Tahoe! I did the 8A when I lived here a few years ago. I’m in town for a day and thought I could do the 12 [8A+] since it’s a power endurance line.

Elisa Lauretano does Black Mamba (8B)

Elisa Lauretano has completed Black Mamba (8B) in Rifugio Barbara - Lowrie. This was the first 8B for the 24-year-old Italian who earlier in 2024, has sent eight boulders 8A or 8A+.

"I discovered this line last summer, and after fantasizing about it all winter, I started seriously trying it in mid-August. It seemed crazy, but I really wanted to try something at my limit that I could put my heart and soul into. I started taking all my pads to the block so I could try it on my own, at my own pace, and find all my methods. Every day I discovered a new feeling, a new turn of the foot, improved small sections. Meanwhile, the hunger to try it was growing.

On a Saturday with excellent conditions, I found myself for the first time under the block, with my friends who were there to support me. I was still far from feeling that it was possible. I started to try it and to my astonishment, I fell in the last moves. At that moment I realized it was really possible! I was thrilled! Then, after a week of tension and a snowfall to complicate everything, the day arrived. I started to warm up and felt light. The conditions were bad, it was drizzling, but I didn't care: I was going to climb the block!"

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Andrea Chelleris (15) onsights Abregenief (8b) and much more

Andrea Chelleris has been on a trip to Saint Léger focusing on onsight. During three climbing days, the 15-year-old onsighted eight routes 7c+ and beyond including Abregenief (8b). Three years ago, he onsighted his first 8a+ as well as redpointed an 8c+/9a. In the last season, he won the Italian Championships in Slalom, Lead and Boulder.

Which were your most memorable onsights and did you come close on other harder routes?
I think the best onsights were Abregenief and Le placard (8a+) because these were the most classic but I enjoyed a lot all the other onsight in La baleine. I came close to onsight Collection automne hiver (8b+) and also Le mur des cyclopes (8b).

How long do you observe to find the best beta?
When I onsight I do a long observation, possibly more than 20 minutes, to find out the best beta but sometimes I miss some holds like on le mur de Cyclopes. This trip I became better at it but in some situations, I still changed the beta because the way I planned to make the move was impossible.

What are your autumn and winter (skiing) plans?
From this year, I decided not to ski anymore and focus on climbing and competitions. It was too hard to do both and I wasn’t enjoying that at all because in ski and also climbing I was really bad at first comp because I didn’t have time to get into shape. I chose the sport that I liked most.

From the fifteen of October I will be in Villanueva del Rosario and there I would like to try La Planta de Shiva (9b) and some other hard routes but anyway I will climb onsight as well. Maybe, I will also make a quick stop to Margalef.

How much and where do you train?
I train 6 days a week mainly at Climbing Ranch. To train comp boulders I go to other nice gyms in Slovenia or Austria.

What about school?
This is the third year of homeschooling for me and I study from home. My mum helps me with this.