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Der schwarze Schwan 8c and pic gallery from Solveig Korherr

Thursday, 10 September

Der schwarze Schwan 8c and pic gallery from Solveig Korherr

Solveig Korherr, who did her third 8c+ as well as first 8b onsight last month, has done Der schwarze Schwan 8c in Ötztal. "It is a very crimpy line with bad feet which finishes in a really big jump. The route suited me quite well up until the jump crux since I’m quite good on smaller holds and getting my feet high. The jump seemed impossible to me when I went up there for the first time. However, with some practice, I was able to find the correct body position for the dyno. I surprised myself by doing it on my third try of the day, on my second day on it, despite being quite fatigued."

The 22-year-old, who is #1 in the 8a ranking game, has also onsighted Seewurm 8a+ onsight, "That was a good fight! The kneebars saved me." as well as redpointed Minas Tirith 8b+, calling it one of her favourites in Ötztal. More great pics by Jon Shen on Solveig's Insta or by clicking on the headline.

"I’m very psyched about my latest onsights with „Seewurm“ (8a+) and „Nostalgie“ (8a) at Piburger See in Ötztal as well. I find that it helps with onsight that I have a quite static climbing style and good endurance. Having a variety of techniques (kneebar, crack climbing) and experience on different rock types definitely helps."

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La prophétie des grenouilles 9a by Marco Müller

Wednesday, 9 September

La prophétie des grenouilles 9a by Marco Müller

Marco Müller has done two 9a's; Le Cadre Nouvelle Version (in July) and La prophétie des grenouilles in Fournel. "I went to Céüse this summer for three weeks with my main goal of climbing "Le cadre". I tried it twice last year, but couldn't stick the jump. It felt much better this year and I could climb it in 10 tries total over 5 days. This gave me also some time to check out the moves on Biographie ;) maybe a project for next year... After Céüse, I went back for some exams and then wanted to climb a bit in Switzerland. But due to rain and wetness, I went south again, but this time to Briancon, and could climb "La prophétie des grenouilles" rather quickly."

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Ellipsis 8b+ Mix MP FA by Jernej Kruder

Wednesday, 9 September

Ellipsis 8b+ Mix MP FA by Jernej Kruder

Jernej Kruder, Boulder World Cup winner overall in 2018, has made the FA of Ellipsis Mix; 7b+, 7a+, 8a, 8b+ and 7c in Bila Pec. The 200-meter line was put up ground up together with Gašper Pintar and David Debeljak in 2018, using mainly trad gear and also some 40 bolts and pitons. All anchors bolted and the 30 meter hardest pitch was protected with two big cams and six bolts. "Opening it up, they were doing the "alpine" parts. I was the guy with the drill and skyhook." (c) Mark Grmek and Luka Fonda

Fun fact: The day before the multi-pitch FA, he made a 9a in Slovenia. The next day included 2.5 hours driving to Italy and one hour walk before starting to climb. Ten days ago, he won a DWS event in Ljubjana based on a no-feet format he invented. Last weekend the 29-year-old was #2 in the Slovenia Boulder Nationals although the whole summer he has spent only three, rainy days, in the gym. His possible next plan is to go for Jacopo Larcher's potential 9a trad climb, Tribe. The long term plan is to make it to Tokyo during the Euro Combined Championship in Moscow in December! (If that event is cancelled he will make it anyway due to his result in the 2019 Combined World Championship.) Including also three 9a+', out of which one DWS, and four 8C boulders, the Slovenian was recently listed as #2, after Adam Ondra, as the best all round climber in the world.

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No pain no game 9A+ by Antoine Kauffmann after 5 pulleys

Wednesday, 9 September

No pain no game 9A+ by Antoine Kauffmann after 5 pulleys

Antoine Kauffmann reports on Insta that he has done his first 9a+, No pain no game in Rodellar. The name of the route pretty well describes the process as he in fact has torn his pulley five times during the last five years, when he did his first and only 9a. (c) Sébastien Berthe

"I tore the first one in 2015 but I did not stop climbing so it became chronic and it lasted for two years. After this, I learned from my past errors and I threatened the new ones way better most of them lasted for 3 months which is more normal. I think it happened because a kept training when I was injured (doing musculation, pulls up, etc) and when I was able to climb again I put to much force too quickly. For the moment it goes better but I climb most of the time open-handed because I feel that my fingers are still strong but fragile. (No pain no gain was a super route for this because I crimp only two holds in all the route).

I started trying the route at the beginning of July. I choose this route because it’s super powerful and overhanging and it suits me really well. I tore my pulley a few months ago so I needed a project with some « good holds ». It felt possible so I started the process: training hard and working the route as much as possible. After two weeks trying the route, I felt not strong enough, I needed more stamina so I returned to Belgium for 7/8 hard training days. The training paid and I started to feel way better in the route. I kept improving in route but had to try it a lot (40-50 tries?). Finally, I could clip the anchor in what could be my biggest fight ever.

Next, I want to train hard for "The story of two world's" and Off the wagon. I will be in Ticino this winter and I want to improve in bouldering before setting the bar higher and I’m dreaming about 9b, especially in Flatanger."

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Foundations Edge 8C and two 8A+ flashes by Tim Reuser

Tuesday, 8 September

Foundations Edge 8C and two 8A+ flashes by Tim Reuser

Tim Reuser, who was #11 in the Lead World Championships last year, has had a great progress in 2020, peaking with a recent trip to Fionnay. His 4-days ticklist includes; two 8A+ flashes; Permanent Midnight (pictured) and Scarred for life high, his first 8C, Foundations Edge and two 8B+' Scarred for Life and Pied de biche, the latter suggesting an 8B personal grade. Until 2019, the 26-year-old had just done one boulder harder than 8A+!

"It took me three days to do Foundation Edge but I already prepared for it for over a month, watching videos, visualizing the moves in my head, etc. So when I arrived I was surprised by how “good” the holds felt as in was expecting them to be way worse. That gave me a lot of confidence. Later that day I also flashed Permanent midnight. The day after I sent Scarred for life in the morning and Pied the bieche at the end of the day.

During the first day, in between trying his 8C project he did his first 8A+ flash. "Feeling strong, I went for a flash on Scarred for life high. I could feel all the holds from the ground so I knew what to expect. The flash go was a success. After this, I worked in the first half of Foundation’s edge. I was surprised how good the holds felt but when I did the drop knee move I was totally stuck. I tried this move for a few hours but realized this wasn’t gonna work out. That evening I rehearsed the moves in my head and came up with a different solution which I tried the next day which actually worked."

How can you explain your recent peak performance and what is your next plan?
I have been training quite a lot since the gyms are open again in the Netherlands. I recently discovered training on the moonboard. The typical small and awkward to grab holds were really something I needed to work on. I’m typically an indoor climber and used to climb on perfect ergonomically shaped holds. The Moonboard holds are the total opposite and resemble outdoor climbing way better in my opinion. This made my transition from indoor to outdoor more smooth. My goal is to do some more outdoor bouldering trips this year. And next year I want to focus more on routes again.

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Tuesday, 8 September

Creme de la crumb 8B+ FFA by Isabelle Faus



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PuntX 9a (+) by Pierre Le Cerf

Tuesday, 8 September

PuntX 9a (+) by Pierre Le Cerf

Fanatic Climbing reports that Pierre Le Cerf has done PuntX in Gorges du Loup suggesting an upgrade to 9a+ due to three broken holds. The 20-year-old, who previously has done three 9a’s, needed some 15 sessions to take it down. (c) Océane Pastor

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P con fin mas hulk extension 9a by Dani Fuertes (39)

Monday, 7 September

P con fin mas hulk extension 9a by Dani Fuertes (39)

Dani Fuertes has done P con fin mas hulk extension 9a in Rodellar, which was open by Dani Andrada in 2007. The 39-year-old did his first out of a dozen 9a in 2009. (c) Marta del Prado

"The route begins with Proa, an 8A sit start boulder. It is quite tense... crimps and a lot of core. You climb like this doing fin de Ali to a kneebar where you must get the rope to begin Hulk extension, the classic 8c in Rodellar."

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