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La prophétie des grenouilles 9a by Marco Müller

Wednesday, 9 September

La prophétie des grenouilles 9a by Marco Müller

Marco Müller has done two 9a's; Le Cadre Nouvelle Version (in July) and La prophétie des grenouilles in Fournel. "I went to Céüse this summer for three weeks with my main goal of climbing "Le cadre". I tried it twice last year, but couldn't stick the jump. It felt much better this year and I could climb it in 10 tries total over 5 days. This gave me also some time to check out the moves on Biographie ;) maybe a project for next year... After Céüse, I went back for some exams and then wanted to climb a bit in Switzerland. But due to rain and wetness, I went south again, but this time to Briancon, and could climb "La prophétie des grenouilles" rather quickly."

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Ellipsis 8b+ Mix MP FA by Jernej Kruder

Wednesday, 9 September

Ellipsis 8b+ Mix MP FA by Jernej Kruder

Jernej Kruder, Boulder World Cup winner overall in 2018, has made the FA of Ellipsis Mix; 7b+, 7a+, 8a, 8b+ and 7c in Bila Pec. The 200-meter line was put up ground up together with Gašper Pintar and David Debeljak in 2018, using mainly trad gear and also some 40 bolts and pitons. All anchors bolted and the 30 meter hardest pitch was protected with two big cams and six bolts. "Opening it up, they were doing the "alpine" parts. I was the guy with the drill and skyhook." (c) Mark Grmek and Luka Fonda

Fun fact: The day before the multi-pitch FA, he made a 9a in Slovenia. The next day included 2.5 hours driving to Italy and one hour walk before starting to climb. Ten days ago, he won a DWS event in Ljubjana based on a no-feet format he invented. Last weekend the 29-year-old was #2 in the Slovenia Boulder Nationals although the whole summer he has spent only three, rainy days, in the gym. His possible next plan is to go for Jacopo Larcher's potential 9a trad climb, Tribe. The long term plan is to make it to Tokyo during the Euro Combined Championship in Moscow in December! (If that event is cancelled he will make it anyway due to his result in the 2019 Combined World Championship.) Including also three 9a+', out of which one DWS, and four 8C boulders, the Slovenian was recently listed as #2, after Adam Ondra, as the best all round climber in the world.

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No pain no game 9A+ by Antoine Kauffmann after 5 pulleys

Wednesday, 9 September

No pain no game 9A+ by Antoine Kauffmann after 5 pulleys

Antoine Kauffmann reports on Insta that he has done his first 9a+, No pain no game in Rodellar. The name of the route pretty well describes the process as he in fact has torn his pulley five times during the last five years, when he did his first and only 9a. (c) Sébastien Berthe

"I tore the first one in 2015 but I did not stop climbing so it became chronic and it lasted for two years. After this, I learned from my past errors and I threatened the new ones way better most of them lasted for 3 months which is more normal. I think it happened because a kept training when I was injured (doing musculation, pulls up, etc) and when I was able to climb again I put to much force too quickly. For the moment it goes better but I climb most of the time open-handed because I feel that my fingers are still strong but fragile. (No pain no gain was a super route for this because I crimp only two holds in all the route).

I started trying the route at the beginning of July. I choose this route because it’s super powerful and overhanging and it suits me really well. I tore my pulley a few months ago so I needed a project with some « good holds ». It felt possible so I started the process: training hard and working the route as much as possible. After two weeks trying the route, I felt not strong enough, I needed more stamina so I returned to Belgium for 7/8 hard training days. The training paid and I started to feel way better in the route. I kept improving in route but had to try it a lot (40-50 tries?). Finally, I could clip the anchor in what could be my biggest fight ever.

Next, I want to train hard for "The story of two world's" and Off the wagon. I will be in Ticino this winter and I want to improve in bouldering before setting the bar higher and I’m dreaming about 9b, especially in Flatanger."

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Foundations Edge 8C and two 8A+ flashes by Tim Reuser

Tuesday, 8 September

Foundations Edge 8C and two 8A+ flashes by Tim Reuser

Tim Reuser, who was #11 in the Lead World Championships last year, has had a great progress in 2020, peaking with a recent trip to Fionnay. His 4-days ticklist includes; two 8A+ flashes; Permanent Midnight (pictured) and Scarred for life high, his first 8C, Foundations Edge and two 8B+' Scarred for Life and Pied de biche, the latter suggesting an 8B personal grade. Until 2019, the 26-year-old had just done one boulder harder than 8A+!

"It took me three days to do Foundation Edge but I already prepared for it for over a month, watching videos, visualizing the moves in my head, etc. So when I arrived I was surprised by how “good” the holds felt as in was expecting them to be way worse. That gave me a lot of confidence. Later that day I also flashed Permanent midnight. The day after I sent Scarred for life in the morning and Pied the bieche at the end of the day.

During the first day, in between trying his 8C project he did his first 8A+ flash. "Feeling strong, I went for a flash on Scarred for life high. I could feel all the holds from the ground so I knew what to expect. The flash go was a success. After this, I worked in the first half of Foundation’s edge. I was surprised how good the holds felt but when I did the drop knee move I was totally stuck. I tried this move for a few hours but realized this wasn’t gonna work out. That evening I rehearsed the moves in my head and came up with a different solution which I tried the next day which actually worked."

How can you explain your recent peak performance and what is your next plan?
I have been training quite a lot since the gyms are open again in the Netherlands. I recently discovered training on the moonboard. The typical small and awkward to grab holds were really something I needed to work on. I’m typically an indoor climber and used to climb on perfect ergonomically shaped holds. The Moonboard holds are the total opposite and resemble outdoor climbing way better in my opinion. This made my transition from indoor to outdoor more smooth. My goal is to do some more outdoor bouldering trips this year. And next year I want to focus more on routes again.

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Tuesday, 8 September

Creme de la crumb 8B+ FFA by Isabelle Faus



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PuntX 9a (+) by Pierre Le Cerf

Tuesday, 8 September

PuntX 9a (+) by Pierre Le Cerf

Fanatic Climbing reports that Pierre Le Cerf has done PuntX in Gorges du Loup suggesting an upgrade to 9a+ due to three broken holds. The 20-year-old, who previously has done three 9a’s, needed some 15 sessions to take it down. (c) Océane Pastor

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P con fin mas hulk extension 9a by Dani Fuertes (39)

Monday, 7 September

P con fin mas hulk extension 9a by Dani Fuertes (39)

Dani Fuertes has done P con fin mas hulk extension 9a in Rodellar, which was open by Dani Andrada in 2007. The 39-year-old did his first out of a dozen 9a in 2009. (c) Marta del Prado

"The route begins with Proa, an 8A sit start boulder. It is quite tense... crimps and a lot of core. You climb like this doing fin de Ali to a kneebar where you must get the rope to begin Hulk extension, the classic 8c in Rodellar."

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Onsight slaughter by Martina Demmel (18), ranked above all male!

Monday, 7 September

Onsight slaughter by Martina Demmel (18), ranked above all male!

Martina Demmel, who was #24 in Briancon, has during the last three weeks onsighted 15 routes 7c to 8b and the 18-year old is #1 in the onsight ranking game last month, including also the male. This is the first time in the 8a history a female is ranked ahead of all male! Interestingly, she is also ahead of all male when it comes to the Top-100 onsights the last year, as well as in the Top-100 routes the last month!. Only in 2020, she has onsighted 82 routes 7c and harder and in total, she has done 131 routes 8a and harder including nine 8c's, all of them done within a couple of sessions. (c) Christian Seitz

8b: Radote jolie pépère, "Things like this only will happen when you don't expect them at all! Just wanted to boulder up once to warm up for an onsight in the left one but directly found myself clipping the chains of this exposed king line as well:)) two bouldery sections separated by a big rest; couldn't see anything while coming around on this edge in the 2nd crux as the sun was still in the wall..."
8a+: Beauté de chine in Tournoux, Encore in Céüse
8a: Bouse de douze in Céüse and Cost of Freedom in Tournoux

"So in general I don't wanna spent the whole trip trying only a few hard routes I rather wanna get an insight to the place by climbing as many different routes as possible mostly the classics or those who simply look impressive. By climbing lots of different styles I'm slowly getting more comfortable in reading which saves a lot of power and tries as I may find the almost perfect solution for my small size pretty fast. Furthermore, the main reason why I really enjoy onsight climbing because I can decide much more intuitively, be more in the moment without thinking about anything else and to not know what's ahead of you makes this kinda challenge pretty attractive for me. On the other side, I'm psyched to see where my redpoint limit is as well but this isn't what motivates me at the moment maybe in a few weeks, months who knows;) still a lot to learn on keeping up the motivation in a longterm project🔥😊 I don't have any plan or strict routine during the day at all just deciding the routes how I feel or where the others wanna climb which keeps the expectations pretty low😉"

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Balboa 8c by Michele Reusa (13)

Monday, 7 September

Balboa 8c by Michele Reusa (13)

Michele Reusa has done his third 8a, Balboa in Tetto di Sarre, his sixth attempt. At the same crag he also onsighted his third 8a, Sogno di Nessuno. The 13-year-old and 175 cm tall trains three times a week in a gym called Kuota 8.10 and then climbing outdoors most weekends.

"I always try onsight up to 8b. Saturday I was close on an 8a+ but I fell missing just two bolts. My goals for 2020 are to do another two 8c's and an 8c+. In September there will be a meeting for the Italian national team and I hope to qualify for the European youth cup."

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