LATEST NEWS

Edu Marin spent 170+ days in China out of which 50 days of bolting, to put up the hardest MP in the world, Valhalla.

Sunday, 13 September

Valhalla 9a+ MP FA by Edu Marin in China

Edu Marin spent 170+ days in China out of which 50 days of bolting, to put up the hardest MP in the world, Valhalla.

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Sunday, 13 September

Hoffmeister race Hans Florine

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Sunday, 13 September

Adam Ondra's Workdays

Rayu 8c Mix MP FA by Pou brothers and Cerdá

Saturday, 12 September

Rayu 8c Mix MP FA by Pou brothers and Cerdá

Iker Pou (43) was just recently listed as #3 overall climbers in the world here on 8a. In 2000, he did Action Directe and this summer he did an 8B+ FA as well as two 9a FAs. In between, he has done another 30 routes 8c+/9a up to 9b (+) as well as numerous big walls FAs all over the globe up to 8c. His latest is is the 600 meter Rayu located in Peña Santa with pitches up to 8c. The FA was done together with his brother Eneko and Kico Cerdá after five weeks of hard work.

"The Basque brothers are convinced that, given the exceptional quality of the route, it will become a classic that will be pursued by the best climbers in the world. There have been marathon days of up to 18 consecutive hours ..., we have ended up destroyed..., but we are happy, we have given everything, and when you make an effort 100%, you have a very good taste in your mouth".

In the end, they redpointed the whole route, mainly protected by trad gear, in a 12 h 1/2 non-stop attempt from the ground to the summit. Click on the headline to see a picture gallery. Video teaser.

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Ali Hulk extension total 9a+ by Daniel Fuertes (39) - UPDATED!

Saturday, 12 September

Ali Hulk extension total 9a+ by Daniel Fuertes (39) - UPDATED!

Daniel Fuertes has done his second 9a+, Ali Hulk extension total in Rodellar. The 39-year-old did his first 9a out of 12 in 2009. (c) Carlos "citro" Logroño

"For me it has been very important send because with this I return to do my best performance! I could not tell you how many days last years and this summer I have focused on these routes. I was climbing there about two weeks in June and then two weeks now. The key has been to not give up and also very important to share methods and tries with other climbers such as Enrique Gallardo and Dave Graham. When you try a hard route it is great to share methods for the crux because any small change can make a difference! That my little princess, Africa, has started the kindergarten, has been also very important haha 😜, now I can spend more time climbing 😂😂."

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Friday, 11 September

7C+ FA by Heiko Queitsch

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T-Rex 8c (b+) by Chuck Odette (64) - Updated

Friday, 11 September

T-Rex 8c (b+) by Chuck Odette (64) - Updated

Chuck Odette has done his first 8c (b+), T-Rex in Pipe Dream after roughly 80-100 tries over two years. The 64-year-old started climbing at age 23 back in 1978. Turning 35, he decided to try to start pushing his limits, reaching his first 7c+ at 37 and first 8b+ at 44. (c) Eric Steiner

"It was cold and wet yesterday (9/9/20) here in Maple. There was a skiff of snow on the trail up to the Pipedream. It was a huge change from two days prior when the temps were 75f (24 celcius) and 14% humidity. My dry skin doesn't adhere well below 20% humidity. We (Maggie & me) almost didn't make the trip up for our Wednesday climbing ritual. The warm-ups were numb-outs. Maggie offered to stay and belay but it was too cold for her to climb... :(

Temps made it up to a balmy 49f (9 celcius) with humidity at 33%... I figured I'd give it one go and wait for hopeful better conditions on Friday. T-Rex is 40 meters long... too long for cold temps. I almost fell at the 3rd bolt... not a good start for a route that's 26 bolts long! Somehow I reeled in the bad left hand pinch that was attempting to thwart my efforts for the day. Instead of monitoring heart rate and pump, I focused on how numb my feet and hands were before moving on from rests.

Taking one move at a time I passed the crux and eventually the anchors of Millennium (8b+). I felt strong on the moves connecting Millennium to the T-Rex extension and just kept knocking down section after section one move at a time. Before I knew it, I was making one last big move to a jug at the lip of the cave, a place I'd fallen on previous attempts while on redpoint. The last four bolts were totally on lock down and anticlimactic. Done... whew... I announced my retirement from climbing to everyone at the crag immediately after lowering off the anchors and touching the ground... then... I qualified it... I'm retiring from climbing until Friday. Time for a new project... something fun... stay tuned :)

PS: I know some strong climbers have started giving T-Rex a downgrade to 8b+ recently from the original long standing consensus grade of 8c. I feel that it's deserving of the 8c personally. It's a full step harder than any 8b+ I've done in the past, but I'm also a full step older than most of my previous 8b+ routes... oh well... ratings... kind of like religion... totally subjective and worth about 2-cents on a good day... lol."

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Daniel Woods has made the FA of Dicktopia 8C which adds an 8A left exit to Little Richard 8B+ featured in the Mellow video. "Overall, Little Richard took me 4 days to do. I put up Dicktopia the same night after doing LR. After sending these two lines, I added a left entrance into LR. This addition is a 7 move 7B+ straight into the crux of LR. Didn’t change grade, just made it a bit harder."

The 31-year-old, who is #2 in the 8a annual ranking game, has in total done 25 8C's and 6 8C+', which is most in the world. In 2010, he won the Boulder World Cup in Vail and he has also won the USA Nationals nine times in a row.

Thursday, 10 September

Dicktopia 8C FA and Little Richard 8B+ by Daniel Woods

Daniel Woods has made the FA of Dicktopia 8C which adds an 8A left exit to Little Richard 8B+ featured in the Mellow video. "Overall, Little Richard took me 4 days to do. I put up Dicktopia the same night after doing LR. After sending these two lines, I added a left entrance into LR. This addition is a 7 move 7B+ straight into the crux of LR. Didn’t change grade, just made it a bit harder."

The 31-year-old, who is #2 in the 8a annual ranking game, has in total done 25 8C's and 6 8C+', which is most in the world. In 2010, he won the Boulder World Cup in Vail and he has also won the USA Nationals nine times in a row.

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Der schwarze Schwan 8c and pic gallery from Solveig Korherr

Thursday, 10 September

Der schwarze Schwan 8c and pic gallery from Solveig Korherr

Solveig Korherr, who did her third 8c+ as well as first 8b onsight last month, has done Der schwarze Schwan 8c in Ötztal. "It is a very crimpy line with bad feet which finishes in a really big jump. The route suited me quite well up until the jump crux since I’m quite good on smaller holds and getting my feet high. The jump seemed impossible to me when I went up there for the first time. However, with some practice, I was able to find the correct body position for the dyno. I surprised myself by doing it on my third try of the day, on my second day on it, despite being quite fatigued."

The 22-year-old, who is #1 in the 8a ranking game, has also onsighted Seewurm 8a+ onsight, "That was a good fight! The kneebars saved me." as well as redpointed Minas Tirith 8b+, calling it one of her favourites in Ötztal. More great pics by Jon Shen on Solveig's Insta or by clicking on the headline.

"I’m very psyched about my latest onsights with „Seewurm“ (8a+) and „Nostalgie“ (8a) at Piburger See in Ötztal as well. I find that it helps with onsight that I have a quite static climbing style and good endurance. Having a variety of techniques (kneebar, crack climbing) and experience on different rock types definitely helps."

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