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Frenesi 9a/+ FA by Tom Bolger

Frenesi 9a/+ FA by Tom Bolger

Tom Bolger reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Frenesi 9a/+ which was an old open project in Margalef. (c) Ivan Torres

"It’s an awesome route. I cleaned up the old project and brought life back to it! Really hard jump move from a bad 3 finger dish! Psyched to keep adding FAs to the Espadelles wall! I had to add the chain and had to brush clean all the holds and remove some loose rock. The route has three marked boulder cruxes with sustained powerful moves on two-finger pockets in between. The route broke near the start hence the really hard jump move. I guess this is why it was left by other people who had tried. The route has a left-hand finish called Abstinencia which used to be 8c+ but will now be harder due to the broken start."

He has lived in Catalunya for over ten years and in the Margalef area for a few years. Currently he is studying to become a climbing guide in Spain. Last month he made the FA of Wild West 9a/+ in the same sector.

"I work in the U.K. I travel backwards and forwards as I work doing rope access. This year I have worked less due to covid and as a result, I have managed to send more of my projects 😛. My next plan is to bolt new lines and try and repeat all the classics her locally and eventually travel once we can :)"

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Podomos 8B (A+) by Marine Thevenet

Podomos 8B (A+) by Marine Thevenet

Marine Thevenet reports on Insta that she has done Podomos in Cresciano. In total, she has now done well over 60 boulders 8A to 8B. (c) Clément Lechaptois

"I never saw the boulder before this winter; even if it is just behind Frank’s wild year! This is incomprehensible why it is not a classic from Cresciano! I tried it during a weekend; during the first day I couldn't do the key move with the undercling; on Sunday I had it in two parts 🔥 I came back to it the following weekend but it was wet; I still tried to figure out some tricks and touched the holds for a couple of hours. Two weeks later we had the chance to come back for a sunny and cold weekend and I sent it just after Clement :) Such a nice Saturday!"

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La Rambla 9a+ by Jonathan Flor

La Rambla 9a+ by Jonathan Flor

Jonathan Flor reports on Insta that he has done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana. It was put up by Ramon Julian Puigblanque in 2004, and with 29 ascents it is the world's most repeated 9a+. (c) Javi Pec

Flor has done some 45 routes graded 8c+/9a and to 9b, meaning that there are only seven climbers ahead of him on that exclusive list. Add to that some routes that he has personally graded. The 24-year-old finished a five-year intensive competition career in 2018, being #23 in the Boulder World Championship in Innsbruck.

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Garnbret in Time100 Next - Condie in Forbes 30under30

Janja Garnbret has been included in the Time100 Next 2021 list, which is an extension of their Top-100 list of profiles shaping the future. "Climbing is a visual sport that, with its spectacular jumps and infinite variations of problem-solving, lends itself to TV."

Garnbret is the big favourite to win in Tokyo. Overall she has won 26 World Cups and four World Champion titles in Lead and Bouldering, although being just 21 years old.

A couple weeks ago, Kyra Condie was featured in the Forbes 30 under 30 list. She will also participate in the Olympics. When she was eleven, she was diagnosed with diagnosed with idiopathic scoliosis and recommended to stop climbing. Four months after a vertebrae fuse, she won her first Youth Nationals.

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