LATEST NEWS

Tuesday, 22 September

Hoyamoros Highballs

Tuesday, 22 September

Ten 8a and 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (55)

Cathy Wagner has during the last six weeks done eight 8a's and two 8a+;
Campagne in Arudy, "Small sector of great quality! Exceptional route very overhanging in a compact pebble! Climbing sections and knees to temporize, all I can do! In agony in the heat of Thursday, almost "easy" in the fall conditions of Saturday. In 3 days."

Quand la folie des hommes gronde in Revilla, "Magnificent route mainly on colos, and about twenty movements, which leans very strongly like all the others in this sector to the right. A saving knee separates the 2 sections for which I had to do my own way because Seb's methods are classy and beautiful to look at from the bottom but just ultra-physical ..! In a pure fight 🤪 to my 4th climb in 3 days."

The 55-year-old has now done 777 routes 8a to 8b, which should be most in the world for a female. Interestingly, Cathy has performed more or less the same during the last twenty years. It should also be noted that around one third of her ascents are done second go so there should still be room for an 8b+ personal best if she started to project one.

Read more

MORE NEWS

Super Power 8C/+ FA  by Aidan Roberts

Monday, 21 September

Super Power 8C/+ FA by Aidan Roberts

Aidan Roberts reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Super Power 8C/+ at the LandStones, which is a sit start to Manpower 8A. He started trying it four years ago and in total it took him some nine sessions. (c) Sam Pratt

" In terms of pure difficulty and minimalism, this one takes the top spot and undoubtedly barges it’s way to my hardest climb to date whilst also aligning perfectly with my style. Steep, body tension, wide moves and small crimps and, from my experience, possibly one of the best of it’s style I’ve come across."

In regards why he did not go for 8C+, he comments Insta, "I’m not yet so willing to commit to this new territory with so little experience so, despite it’s slightly lame nature, will propose the annoying slash grade of 8C/+. Perhaps some more clarity will arise once I’ve developed a little more experience of cutting edge climbing."

It should be noted that the 21-year-old one month ago did the FA of Outliers 8C at Trowbarrow and one week ago did the FA of Copperline 8B+ in the Coppermines. Five years ago he won a Euro Youth Cup and among the seniors, his best result is #19 in the World Cup.

Read more

Monday, 21 September

Ondra downgrades to 9a by kneebars

Read more
Seta ibérica 9a+ by Alex Garriga

Monday, 21 September

Seta ibérica 9a+ by Alex Garriga

Alex Garriga, has done his second 9a+ in 2020, Seta ibérica in Cuenca which Jorge Diaz-Rullo put up last year. (c) Alfonso Martinez

"It is a link-up of the hardest part of Seta negra (8c+) and the hardest part of Circo Iberico (9a/+). There is also a resistance traverse for connecting them."

Read more

Monday, 21 September

Frasassi Climbing Festival

Monday, 21 September

Hukkataival in Argentina

Isla de Encantada 8B flash by Will Bosi

Sunday, 20 September

Isla de Encantada 8B flash by Will Bosi

William Bosi, who did his second 8C two weeks ago, has done his first 8B flash, Isla de Encanta in Trowbarrow quarry. (c) Band of Birds. (Thankfully it turns out our desire for funky lighting didn't seem to bother Will's ability to climb really hard problems really quickly).

Isla de Encanta has been one of the lines which has caught my eye since I was a kid. When stopping off at Trowbarrow on my way back from Edinburgh, I was keen to give it a go. I waited until night for the best conditions and everything fell perfectly into place first time. It was a really short stay here but I am keen to come back up to the Lakes and explore some more areas soon!

Read more
Mina Markovic in a new muscular 9a shape - Picture gallery

Saturday, 19 September

Mina Markovic in a new muscular 9a shape - Picture gallery

Mina Markovic has been one of the best competition climbers during the last 15 years. In between 2010 - 2015, she had her peak having won 23 World Cups, including two in bouldering. During the last years, she has been studying psychology and biopsychology, which created interest and passion into understanding the consequences of low energy availability. A report of this knowledge in regards health prevention has been published, acknowledging and detecting low ea and disordered eating in sport, including climbing.

This work will soon be possible to access on her IG profile 😋 @miiiinam_psychilogy) as well as invitations for some webinars, workshops and other discussions around this topics in sport). The plan is to follow up and possibly give some further recommendations. (on biopsychology, nutritional psychology and mental health prevention in sport.

During the last season, she started to get some 'random' health issues. No 'real reason' was found but she was advised to gain some weight.

"After a while, it turned out, that my body was more than thankful to me for this step. 🙇‍♀️, my recovery and training gains become notable. But moreover, what means to me more, I feel free, relaxed and psyched for what life is offering to me. Enjoy all the special moment(s) and smile a lot on every single day! 🤣👌🤣 I would (maybe) prefer not to discuss my weight as I want to avoid those 'numbers' maybe to be taken into the wrong direction by some (especially young) climbers and triggers for some people, to actually achieve this weight ...which I believe is not best approach. But, I can easily mention, that I am at least up for about 4 kg since my comp shape. Climbing (maybe) better and stronger than ever 😋." More thoughts on her Insta.

This summer she has done two 9a's, Halupca 1979 and Waterworld (c) Luka Fonda. The pictures show her new more muscular shape. It should be mentioned that Urska Repusic, also from Slovenia, who won the Euro Boulder Championship last year, has just recently come forward with eating disorder thoughts on her Insta.

Read more