Mirko Caballero has done his first 8A+, The Auqarium in Bishop. "Long. Reminds me how much I hate the heel hook on Aquatic Hitchhiker. Still super psyched for my first 8a+. I'm also a competitive gymnast. For now I'm trying to do both simultaneously, but if I have to choose, I will focus on climbing." (c) Christiane Caballero
1. Daniel Woods - Alex Puccio 2. Ethan Pringle - Angela Payne 3. Michael Bautista - Shauna Coxsey (UK) Male results and Female results A very strong starting list with some sensational results although the favourites won. Sean McColl was #7 and Jimmy Webb who won the qually was #8. Sasha Digiulian who was #2 in the World Championship in 2011 was #6. The ranking was based on measuring holds not the IFSC regulations with just Top and Zone scoring.
Piotr Schab has onsighted eighth 7c+ and harder including Pais de monos, 8a+ during five days in Margalef. The 15 year old has previously redpointed up to 8c+. During the last five days the tallented polish climber has onsighted another four 8a+ and four 8a. In the junior ranking game he is #4 but among the guys born 1996, he is #1. (c) Elias Holzknecht
Hannah Midtbø has done Rollito Sharma extension, 8c in Santa Linya. "The logical line! Very cool style of climbing (especially after the broken hold). Dynamic, delicate and powerful. You gotta love a route where you keep falling at the very last move :)" In 2008, Hanna was #3 in the Euro Boulder Championship being 18 years old. In the last Lead IFSC comp she entered she won the Youth Cup.
Dave Graham has done yet another 8B FA, Where Loves goes to die in Hueco Tanks. "Compression-tech, double toes, kneebars, BOMBER perfect black stone, and bring your headlamps! a real dream come true if you will. Hard to grade, def reachy, could be harder??" In total, Dave has done 51 FA's 8B and harder making him maybe #1 in the world in this honorable discipline. Dave is well known for his vision and his FA's are spread out around the globe.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Although Adam Ondra won his qualification group in Meiringen and three other of the Olympians made it to the Top-20 semi, it seems many of the guys going to Tokyo have taken a toll on all their Speed training. Jakob Schubert, who was #7 last week in a Euro Cup, was #23, Jan Hojer #27, Michael Piccol…
Roberto Lopez reports that due to the effects of Natura 2000, climbing around Alicante is at risk. Please, fill in this form to show the positive economical impact climbing has in the area. "The future entry into force of the new regulations that will regulate the Natura 2000 Network in the provinc…
Climbing reports that three 3a routes have been bolted over 1 000-year-old Petroglyphs in Moab. "“Put it this way:, the native people soloed up and stood there …
Advertorial: Speed, bouldering and rope climbing: the recent evolutions in sports climbing require products that are increasingly dedicated to each discipline. …
Adam Ondra exlains his strategy of working out Perfectu Mundo 9b+. "I set myself challenges trying the route from a certain point and then going to the top of the route... I would just climb up to the 5th bolt, take a good rest while hanging in the rope and start my “attempt”."
Nicolai Uznik from Austria and Mailys Piazzalunga from France won the first European Cup in 2021, held in Klagenfurt. Both were, climbing-wise, quite superior i…
In 2021, males seem to have continued climbing hard all around the globe. Meanwhile, there has been a decline in female headlines in the media, as well as hard ascents in the 8a database. Possibly, this relates to girls not having picked up traveling as much in 2021. This is also confirmed by there…
There are 115 males and 79 females on the starting list of the Meiringen Boulder World Cup in the coming weekend. Some big names that are missing are Tomoa Narasaki, Kai Harada and Futaba Ito from Japan, Jongwon Chon and Chaeyo Seo from Korea, Sean McColl from Canada and Shauna Coxsey from UK. On In…
Andreas Kubin shares the story about Marcel "Matrix" Remy celebrating his 98th birthday by climbing in a new climbing gym in Satigny/Geneva together with his so…