Moritz Welt has done the second ascent of Adam Ondra's Stone Butterfly (9a+) in Herculane. "5 sessions, power endurance with very complex and fun moves." This was the fourth 9a+ for the 22-year-old German who also has logged 20 routes graded 9a.

Can you tell us more about the trip and Stone Butterfly?
It's our second time here in Băile Herculane. My girlfriend and I visited this place last summer for 3 days and I checked out some of the hard lines. We liked it a lot here, so we planned to come back for a longer trip and finally this spring we made it! My main objective was to try and maybe send Stone Butterfly. I didn't know if 3 weeks would be enough but I was really psyched. Really surprised myself with doing it rather quickly after only one week!

The crags here are great and offer a lot of potential so I would definitely recommend to everyone to come here!

What is next?
My goal now is to send Black Cobra (2) (9a), which is at the moment the second hardest route here and maybe check out some open projects!

Sébastien Berthe, one of the very best multi-discipline climbers in the world from competitions to Big Walls, has completed Bon Voyage (9a) in Annot. (c) Soline Kentzel

"Bon voyage is this incredible route first ascended by James Pearson in early 2023, and then first repeated by the GOAT Adam Ondra a month ago, in February 2024. After long months of reflection, James proposed the grade of 9a, E12, which makes one of the hardest, if not the hardest trad route in the world. The route starts in the famous 8b+ trad-crack line “Le voyage” (or ”Les voillage faurmes la jenaice”) and then leaves the crack and traverses left into a blank impressive wall. The notion that on this wall, a route could be freeclimbed on gear, is akin to a magic trick. A big congratulations to the magician James, for having the vision and perseverance to see through his "Bon Voyage" till the end!

When leaving the Voyage, there are a few more “moderate” moves, big moves on good handholds and bad footholds. On the last rest, you need to place the last piece of gear, a little blue Totemcam, which can be quite tricky while climbing, to place in a pocket. From this point, the hard section starts: 12 really intense and complex moves, hard for the fingers, finishing on an amazing arete far left. The section itself could probably be graded 8c or 8c+, and it is quite runout. However, as Adam said, it is "probably safe" with a good belay. Nevertheless, there is a rocky spike, a "guillotine," a few meters below the final arete, which is rather intimidating. I believe that a bad fall at the wrong moment, with just a bit too much slack in the system, could likely result in hitting it.

I spent more or less 8 sessions in total on the route. I first tried Bon Voyage in April 2023 for half an hour after my flash ascent of “Le Voyage”, I immediately fell in love with the route, and decided it would be one of my main goals for 2024. That’s why I came back to Annot at the end of February this year, just a few days after Adam Ondra's lightning-fast ascent, with a firm intention to tackle the route! Despite very erratic weather conditions during this trip, I managed to have 3 sessions on the route. Right from the first session, I pushed myself to lead climb the route to get used to the placement of protections, the falls, and so on. My progress on the route was quite rapid, and by the third session, I was considering doing the entire difficult section in one go. Unfortunately, I injured my little finger on the key move of the route, a big move to the left from a very small mono-finger hold, a very aggressive and particular move. While attempting to link the section, I felt a sharp pain and a jolt in my hand and forearm... Diagnosis: a small tear or strain of the lumbrical muscles inside the hand. So, this first trip ended abruptly, and it's with frustration and, above all, a strong desire to return that I leave Annot!

Two weeks later, I'm back in Annot! My finger is a bit better, but I'm not fully healed yet. I can easily climb using four fingers, but I feel pain as soon as my ring finger and little finger are separated. I'm hesitant to jump back into the process so quickly, but the temptation to return to Bon Voyage is too strong: the route haunts me, and the weather for the upcoming days is perfect. A voice inside me tells me that I can try again despite the minor injury, that I could change my method in the crux move, use another finger, and that it should probably be okay for the other moves. I spend two sessions trying to regain good sensations, recalibrating the movements, and getting used to leading the beginning. To my great surprise, I manage to link the entire difficult section in one lead, albeit with great fear, because the potential fall is not only long but also possibly dangerous, which I find hard to estimate. Then, after a day of rest, I feel ready for some goes “A muerte"! That day, I put in a superb effort and fall at the crux from the ground. I feel quite close to sending it. Unfortunately, upon returning to the ground, I notice that I've severely torn my skin due to the crucial hold, that cursed mono-finger pocket, during my attempt, and I have a deep cut. Impossible to try again... So, I decide to take two days off and do everything to heal this wound as quickly as possible.

On March 19, 2024, I return to the crag after two days off. My motivation is at its peak; I'm eager to tackle the climb! My skin has more or less closed up, but I feel it won't hold for long. During warm-up, I test the move on a static rope, but I dare not try too hard as I feel the wound might open up directly. Well, at that moment, I know I might only get one shot. I'll have to give it my all! Before my attempt, I decide to put strong glue on my skin to protect the injury and prevent it from reopening until later. I'm feeling butterflies in my stomach; I'm stressed. I know it's possible, but I'll have to be good, to surpass myself! My preparation is meticulous; my rack is set up on my harness in detail. I leave nothing to chance and ensure that everything is optimized for my climb. There are many people at the crag (James Pearson has just arrived to work on a new project nearby), and the atmosphere is fantastic. But as I set off, everyone stops climbing and falls silent to watch my run; the tension is high. I give the last instructions to my belayer, James Taylor, an Englishman who came to work on the Voyage, and off I go!

I easily and quickly climb the first meters of the climb. I feel good and strong. After a few minutes of climbing, I'm already on the final rest; I make the last gear placement that I've worked on for a long time to execute it as best as possible. When I launch into the section, I am determined and ready to give it my all. The cheers grow louder and louder as I progress through the difficult and committing section. I'm at the crux now; I place my middle finger in that famous pocket and twist it to fit as best as possible. I can immediately feel all the glue coming off, and the hold attacking my flesh, but there's no time to dwell on it! I launch my body to the left and manage to grab the next hold with just my fingertips. And that's when the real battle begins. I know exactly what I have to do; I am precise in my movements, but I am in agony; with every move, I have to fight. My friends below are literally pushing me with their encouragement! There, I'm on the arete after a famous retreat during the most "delicate" movement in terms of commitment. Now I must remain focused, even though I know it's won. I make the last movements, shouting with joy! I did it! The relief and pleasure of reaching the top of this magnificent line overwhelm me.

Thanks to all those who helped and support me with this process: Soline, Jean-Elie, Mathieu (aka Michmich), James, Miguel, my parents Rico and Coco, Magali and Gilles, Tonio Rhode, James Taylor, Franco Cookson, Jacopo Larcher, and all the others… Thank you! An original film about the whole process and ascent is in preparation, stay tuned!"

Alex Khazanov, who won a Boulder WC in 2018, has sent From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. “A boulder that represents a level up in my personal climbing. The hardest part of the boulder is a legendary mantle, that a few years ago would seem impossible to me. Trying "Alphane" over and over became a mental challenge. Trying and climbing "From dirt" was a good reminder of how amazing and diverse our sport is. I could relax my mind and just climb a good personal challenge.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your progress on Alphane?
The last 3 trips to Switzerland the only boulder I have tried was Alphane. The trips were short, about 5 climbing days each, so I didn't have time for anything else. Alphane consumed my mind and I couldn't think about any other climb.

This trip the weather, my skin and mind needed a break. I always thought I would have zero chances on From Dirt…as mantles and mobility are not my strongest style of climbing. But it was in the shade and a short drive from Alphane. Doing it represents a growth in my personal climbing, and I am very happy about doing it rather quickly. I do feel like a better climber than I was.

As for Alphane, the weather this trip was really strange. Snowing one day and warm 18 degrees the next. So I didn't have many good tries from the start. I do feel the flow on the boulder and confident I can send, I hope to come back in two weeks.

This boulder is very hard. I have spent about 20 sessions on it already and saw some of the best climbers in the world try it. Definitely feels like a 9A.

What are your current competition plans?
This year is last one of my competition career. I will not do any World Cups and compete only in the Olympic qualifiers. I have sacrificed a lot for the World Cups and I am ready to move on. The style of climbing in competition has changed a lot, and although I feel the best I ever have in my style, I feel like a cannot show it in World Cups anymore. It's okay, and it's the progression of the competitions. The beauty of our sport is that I can still show it on rocks, and I very much plan to do so in the upcoming years. I also coach Ayala Kerem, so now that I have stopped competing I can dedicate myself more for her training.

Abigail Humber has completed Spannuth Armada (8c) in Summersville Lake. ”Such a unique route that deserves more ascents. Technical yet powerful climbing with a spicy foot cut at the end. Psyched to get the FFA of this amazing line. :)” (c) Bill Holman

Can you tell us more about Spannuth Armada and the two year gap between this 8c and the first 8c you completed?
After the Youth World Championships last summer, which were my last competition as a youth competitor, I wasn’t really sure what direction I wanted to go in regarding climbing’s role in my life. I had a lot of accumulated fatigue, and I knew I needed to change my approach to training and climbing performance. I also started college this year, and I wanted to make sure I wasn’t so focused on climbing that I couldn’t develop the other parts of myself. I also decided to go vegan for ethical reasons. (I was originally concerned that choosing to go vegan would negatively affect my climbing, but I actually feel great!)

After taking some time off, I was looking for something to motivate me and I saw some video footage of Spannuth. The idea of going outside again and getting strong enough to try Spannuth got me psyched on climbing and training again.

In terms of why it took me two years to send another 8c, I try to always follow what gets me psyched in the moment. While I was in youth I was splitting my time between competitions and outdoor climbing, so I had limited time. I also spent a significant amount of time on Thug Life (8b) in the Red River Gorge, because it was a significant route to me and a dream project of mine (even though it was “only” 8b). I spent a lot of time in the gym last year though, since I wanted to perform well in my last year as a youth competitor. It payed off, because I was able to get 2nd at Nationals and placed 17th at Youth Worlds!

Iris Bielli has repeated Beat Kammerlander’s Prinzip Hoffnung (8b+) in Bürser Platte. The 20-year-old, who says her passion is multi-pitch climbing, onsighting and technical slab climbing, sent her first 8c in January. Beat Kammerlander first did the 40 meter line with bolts before chopping them, and in 2009, he made the first ascent with trad gear.

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
I visited the Bürser Platte for the first time at the end of December, unfortunately the route was wet, and it was too cold to climb, nonetheless the line immediately charmed me with its aesthetics. I returned for a day trip on March 3, many hours of driving and little climbing but enough to fuel me up to return the following weekend. On Saturday, I studied the movements and gear placements while top-roping and on Sunday I attempted a lead climb. During my first lap, I fell in the final part of the crux slab due to sweaty fingertips caused by heat, humidity and even a bit of tension. I waited for 3 hours, in the meantime the wind picked up, my hands dried and I managed to send the route on the second lead attempt. I think Prinzip Hoffnung is a truly special line because it combines the mental factor of trad climbing with the technical difficulties of precarious slab climbing, all in a relatively safe way.

Michaela Kiersch is back in Margalef where she has completed Combifetis (8c) and Victimes del Passat R2 (8c+). (c) Jan Novak

Over the last couple of years Kiersch has completed a dozen boulder problems 8B to 8B+, as well a dozen routes 8c+ to 9a+.

Can you tell us more about your current trip and the 8c+ you just sent?
It shares the start with Victimes del futur (9a) and it was helpful to already be familiar with the bottom moves, even though it really only shares about 2-3 draws. I fell maybe 2 days on R1 and then sent R2 the next day. There is a tricky match in a pocket with 2 monos which was super difficult for me. I ended up finding alternative beta with a crimp that was a bit harder but less precise and it made the difference! I’m finally settling into a routine here in Margalef after about 2 weeks. My skin is good and the sends are coming together. I’ll stay at least another week or so.

In a few months, the world's top sport climbers will compete at the Olympic Games in Paris. However, before the Games begin, we’re calling on all climbers to climb there with us by joining The Vertical-Life Climb to Paris Challenge powered by Mammut. With your support, we’ll be linking together the world’s longest multi-pitch by starting in Tokyo, host of the 2020 Olympics, and topping out 14 million meters later in Paris.

How it works: Start by simply logging into your profile and add your climbs to your logbook by ticking your ascents on the Vertical-Life app or website. If you don't have a Vertical-Life account yet, you can create one for free. All indoor and outdoor climbs completed before July 17th count towards Paris. Along the way, top prizes provided by Vertical-Life and Mammut will be raffled at every milestone that we climb to, just make sure to click the "Join The Raffle" button on the challenge page. Plus, all premium users will be entered into a draw for the Grand Prize - an exclusive climbing day with a Mammut athlete.

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William Moss, who one year ago did the FA of the mixed line Best Things in Life are Free (9a), has sent three 8b+ trad routes and he says he thinks all of them should have an R, for run-out, added to the grade. The 19-year-old is #1 in our trad climbing ranking game just ahead of Alex Honnold.

Kill Switch (8b+) in Gross Reservoir: "Cool grit style route. Put it down second sesh. after it was wet during the first session."

Viceroy (8c) in Castle Rock: "Did so much tr solo on this thing, probably about 14 sessions before giving it a lead burn. Worked it a lot cuz of the danger factor and wanted to make sure I had the placements dialed and didn’t fall on the sketch sections. Fell once on the first crux after the 13c and then sent next lead burn."

Cheating Reality (8b+) in Flatirons: "Really cool route. Did it all on gear. Found a good rock sling that made the 5.12 not a solo. Super good route in a sick area."

Matt Fultz has made the first repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s Big Z (8C+) in Tahoe making it his eighth 8C+.

“This is the hardest problem I have ever done without a doubt. Honestly, this is the first time I truly understand the concept of a problem being bigger and more meaningful than just the number attached to it.

I’ve been trying Big Z for the past 3 years. During my first 10-ish sessions I knew it was impossible for me. I’m too tall and don’t fit into the positions at all. My fingers are too big to fit into the cracks. My butt is too big to avoid the dab on the rock! I only continued to show up because I knew it was good for me to work on my weaknesses, and holy cow what a sick line! I eventually worked out the kneebar beta which unlocked the middle crux, but the kneebar also created a new issue... The transition out of the kneebar became a new crux [in itself] and set me up for the next moves terribly. This year I fell on the last move. Then a couple days ago I basically did it from one move in. I truly believed for the first time. Fast forward about 20 more sessions and I ended up on top with full confidence on my first try of the day.”

Luca Bana, who climbed Supercrackinette (9a+) two months ago, has completed A present for the future (9a/+) in Valle dell'Opol. "A couple of afternoons to put up the quickdraws, clean a bit and check out the holds, then a handful of sessions to get the job done. Some holds broke off some years after Adam's FA, when my friend Teto Carnati was trying it, making the lower section (crux) considerably harder. Fortunately the following traverse, of course challenging, didn't feel too hard to me once optimised to its best. That's why, when I got through the crux for the first time, thanks also to a good amount of fuel left in the tank, I accepted the game and made it to the top. Overall, a pretty good looking line despite the poor rock quality in the first meters and some very painful holds. About grades, solid 9a/+ or normal 9a+ should be fine."

The 26-year-old has done eleven routes 9a's and harder. He has also done the FA of 36 routes 8c and harder including five 9a's.

Bana adds: "I still have a few hard unclimbed projects near home, so the plan in the short term is to challenge again myself for high level FAs, let's see! I bolted most of them with my friend Bernardo Rivadossi"

What's the longest you've ever project a climb?
I think that the most challenging routes I did took me a maximum of 8/10 sessions to complete. I'm not a super fan of routes worked for too long, and I know that if I want to make it one step further and move to the next level I need to invest more time. Let's see, for sure I'll dedicate myself to longer projects sooner or later.