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Foundations Edge 8C by Teo Genecand

Saturday, 3 October

Foundations Edge 8C by Teo Genecand

Teo Genecand has had a continuous progress for many years although being a father of two kids. A couple of days he did his first 8C, Foundations Edge in Fionnay and his recipe is quite unique.

"I never thought I would be featured in an 8a.nu news one day, but since it’s happening I will use the platform to share a bit of wisdom with the (future) moms and dads climbers out there! I have two wonderful kids (Liv, born in 2016 and Noé born in 2018) and I love to spend as much time as possible with them and my wife Camille. With a full time job, this basically means a lot less climbing. But actually a reduced volume has been met with slow and steady progress! In training for climbing, less is more in my experience. Since 2015, I have been hang boarding once a week and bouldering for 2h once a week + climbing outside usually one day of the weekend when the weather allows (+holidays). Yesterday was quite exceptional, because I had to attend a hearing just next to Fionnay so I took advantage of that to climb there since I had already drove all the way down there.

The key for me was switching from long power endurance sessions (I was mainly route climbing until 2014) to short strength sessions with low volume of training. Now my level of strength has increased so much that the few times I route climbed during the last few years I feel better than before even with no endurance."

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House of Cards 9a FA by Moritz Welt

Friday, 2 October

House of Cards 9a FA by Moritz Welt

Moritz Welt has done the FA of House of Cards 9a in Frankenjura. On Insta he explains that the name refers to "is an expression that dates back to 1645 meaning a structure or argument built on a shaky foundation or one that will collapse if a necessary (but possibly overlooked or unappreciated) element is removed."(c) Lars Decker

"It took me about five sessions last year and six more this season. It is an old project which was just halfway bolted and not cleaned at all, I put in like two or three days effort to bolt the rest and clean it up. I have to say I'm really not sure about the grade, first I thought it wont be that hard, but it took me longer than expected."

It should be mentioned that the 19-year-old has now done ten 9a's, excluding a couple he suggested a personal down grade. In the 8a ranking game, he is #7.

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MORE NEWS

Fixation 8c+ FA by Steve McClure (50)

Friday, 2 October

Fixation 8c+ FA by Steve McClure (50)

Steve McClure, who has made the FA of more than a handful "hard graded" 9a to 9b (Rainman in 2017) has done the FA of Fixation 8c+ at Malhalm Cove. It is a Neil Gresham seven bolt extension of L'Obsession 7c+ including a long boulder.

"Reckon it took 6 visits, in total. First day was soaking so didn’t do a single move, then a few more to figure it out. Fell off last move and took a few more days to do as the next day it was too wet. Ah, the joys of UK conditions, you have to love it! Such a cool route with a techy 7c+ wall at the bottom before it turns really bouldery with powerful snatches on undercuts. Lots of heel and toe action. Brilliant. Psyched!!" More comments on his Insta. (c) Neil Gresham

Steve started sport climbing when he was 24. At 26 he made his first 8a redpoint (in fact it was 8b) and within a year he did 8c+. Two years later, in 1998, he made the FA of Mutation as an 9a but as nobody has repeated it yet, the community now considers it as perhaps 9a+. In fact, only three climbers have repeated any of his FAs and for Overshadow 9a+, Adam Ondra said, "The upper end of the grade for sure, 3 stars." In fact, using the modern variation and link up thinking, Steve has done several more 9a FAs but just as a personal challenge as he wants all his routes to be of the highest quality. It should also be noted that Fixation as a project, some thought it was 9a.

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El Bon Combat 9b by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Thursday, 1 October

El Bon Combat 9b by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, #1 in the 8a ranking game, has done his fifth 9b during the last 16 months, El Bon Combat in Cova de Ocell. (c) Liqen.studio

On Insta he reports, "30+ days of work, almost 2 months living in the sector alone, stressed by the heat of summer, drenched by a ton of rain, one robbery, so many frustrations and the fear of fighting a losing battle..."

The 21-year-old also said that Chris Sharma put it up as an 9b/+, then Jakob Schubert gave it 9a+ and Felipe Camargo 9b. Jorge says 9b as, "It has cost me so much, it's my antistyle and the conditions did not help at all... It was truly, very difficult for me! So long story short, whatever the grade is, I'm just happy to have done it! 😃💥"

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Wrestling with an alligator 8B by Mia Krampl

Thursday, 1 October

Wrestling with an alligator 8B by Mia Krampl

Mia Krampl, who has qualified to Tokyo, has done a quick send of Wrestling with an alligator 8B in Maltatal. "Last time I tried the moves but couldn't do mantle part 😅 and this time I figured out the beta pretty fast and did it in a short session. I guess I didn't need that much time because I already new the start pretty well from Petting with an alligator 8A+ :)" (c) Matic Kotar

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Leire 9a by Alberto Gines López (17)

Thursday, 1 October

Leire 9a by Alberto Gines López (17)

Alberto Gines López, who has qualified to Tokyo, has done his second 9a in Cuenca in September, Leire. On Insta, the 17-year-old reports it went done after just five tries, including an onsight attempt, over two days. (c) Javi Pec

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Thursday, 1 October

Close Call on a MP FA

Autoengaño 9a by Sergio Verdasco

Wednesday, 30 September

Autoengaño 9a by Sergio Verdasco

Sergio Verdasco, an IFSC Para route setter, who did his first 8c in July, has done his first 9a, Autoengaño in Rodellar. "The big difference for me is that I stopped competing in may 2019 and started only rock climbing. I spent all this time climbing in different places, trying to improve my skills and of curse ¡A MUERTE!" (c)Guillermo Dominguez

"The route is crazy, around 20/25 meters of roof climbing, bolted by the master Dani Andrada. It is a roof but it isn’t only athletic climbing, it has lot of tricky climbing, drop knees, toe hooks, heel hooks, down climbing, knee bars (17 with my beta). At the end, for me it is more a technical, body tension and powerful climb."

On my first try I was able to do all the moves, which made me fell in love with the route. The beginning of the process was easy about each day I was improving in the route, but after being close to the send for the first time the mental game started. It was hard to battle with it but finally it ends in the best way possible.

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