LATEST NEWS

Artificial sand stone park: Contes

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Tuesday, 22 November

Artificial sand stone park: Contes

Annot is famous for it's chipping but now this has been taken further as Contes, 1h north of Nice, has been developed almost only based on artificial holds. It is like a giant outdoor gym with easy access and 160 routes between 3a to 7c, out of which some 80 % in the 5th and 6th grade. It is the company Odysse Verticale who in cooperation with the City Council have made it possible, see topo. It is very well protected in order to facilitate families and school kids with routes from 3 metres with three bolts up to 25m length. Most of the climbing takes place on large sand stone blocks without any natural holds.

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Tuesday, 22 November

8A by Brooke Raboutou (10) and other Team ABC Kids

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has been with her Team ABC Kids in Hueco Tanks. Brooke Raboutou (10) who did her first 8b route being 9 year old has done her first 8A, Une Pointe de Bleau dans un Hueco. Big brother Shawn (13) did it second go and Megan Mascarenas (14) flashed it. Click and scroll down to see an article about the amazing ABC Kids. Read about their Philosophy and Objectives etc.

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MORE NEWS

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Monday, 21 November

Long term progress in nice

Short term progress and personal best is kind of easy to achieve. Just find a "soft" redpoint project, work it hard for a couple of weeks and then put in some extra rest days. It is natural that we want to improve and fast development is what most dream for. Training program are often based on creating a peak within a couple of months for a competition or for a trip. Such program are for many very motivating but for others, they can be contra productive. The beauty and kind of unique thing for climbing is that different approaches are possible for long term progress. Some are really motivated by following a strict program but others just hang around and climb.

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8b+ OS revenge for Ramonet and Edu

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Monday, 21 November

8b+ OS revenge for Ramonet and Edu

Ramon Julian Puigblanque was only #11 in Kranj as he was timed out in the semi and Edu Marin was #17. Instead of the finals on Sunday they drove down to Misja Pec where they both onsighted Millenium, 8b+ which they both said was pretty easy. In 2009, Edu onsighted three 8c's and in 2006, he won a Lead WC. The double world champion, Ramonet has onsighted an 8c+ this year. (c) Heiko Wilhelm

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Monday, 21 November

Pita e Schen encadenam a via Zona 0, 10b em Siurana

Os escaladores Pita e Ricardo Schen encadenaram a clássica via Zona 0, 10b em Siurana.

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8b by Hannah Midtbø

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Monday, 21 November

8b by Hannah Midtbø

Hannah Midtbø has done her fourth 8b in 2011, Santa Linya in Santa Linya. "Classic route! A crux on it's own to clip the anchor. Went through the moves a few times, then did it second redpoint attempt." In 2008, being 18 year old, Hannah was #3 in the Euro Boulder Championship. Last year, she did two 8A's. In the game, Hannah is #13. Magnus Midtbø who has done several 9a - 9b and who was #4 in the world champion this year, is Hannah's two year older brother.

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Melissa Le Nevé - Lifestyle traveller

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Sunday, 20 November

Melissa Le Nevé - Lifestyle traveller

Melissa Le Nevé is blogging from Getu Valley from her trip to Getu Valley where she did Powder Finger, 8b+ (c) and Teblinka, 8b. Next year she will continue her exploration doing comps and travel around the globe. First routes in Oliana, then boulder in Hueco Tanks, all the comps including the world champs in Paris etc. "I want to express myself more outside, travel, discover other places, other way of life." So how it is possible to combine boulder and routes so succesful? "Maybe there is no magic way just pleasure and fun."

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Teaser do filme que vai mostrar a expedição de Felipe Dallorto e Flavia dos Anjos ao paraíso do Psicobloc, Mallorca (Espanha), como também do Grit Stone, Peak District (Inglaterra).

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Sunday, 20 November

Vídeo: No Ropes! No Bolts!