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Thursday, 10 November

Arno Fritz encadena a via Lágrimas de Sangue, 10b

Arno Fritz encadenou a via Lágrimas de Sangue, 10b, na falésia da Barrinha, RJ.

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Thursday, 10 November

7C+ by Isabelle Faus (18)

Isabelle Faus has done Tres de las Quintas, 7C+ in Chattanooga.

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8B+ by Sean McColl in 1.5 hours

NUMBERS

Thursday, 10 November

8B+ by Sean McColl in 1.5 hours

Sean McColl, who was #2 in the last Lead WC, has changed arena and prepars for the next Lead WC by 10 days bouldering in Switzerland. "I don't think I'll lose any endurance while here as I'm only here for 2 weeks. I'll maybe gain some power and a nice break from training 4 days a week on platic!" (c) C.Loury/Planetgrimpe During the first day he has done five classic 7C+ to 8A+ and New Base Line, 8B+. "Took me 1.5 hours on my second day after trying it for 15 minutes on the first day. I found the problem fit my style very well and I've always wanted to try it. I'm so happy that it came together so fast and thanks to Daniel, Paul and Courtney for the encouragement!"

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Nina Caprez reports from China

NUMBERS

Wednesday, 9 November

Nina Caprez reports from China

Nina Caprez reports from Petzl Roc Trip In China where she did Powder Finger 8c, two 8b+ and a 8b second go beside enjoying all but Andrada's MP's. "China was just crazy! One of the best trip I've done!." "One year ago, there was nothing else then three cows and 10 people in the Getu Valley and Erwann Le Lann transformed this lost valley in a huge climbing paradise!. There are five star routes everywhere and you can climb in each style...mostly in the big arch, the climbing is unique. I was really impressed by the MP's, I wanted to climb them all, but it wasn't the most important goal to redpoint them. It was just a must, to climb them all!" (c) Laurent Lafouche

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9a FA by Cedric Lachat

NUMBERS

Wednesday, 9 November

9a FA by Cedric Lachat

Nina Caprez reports that her boyfriend Cedric Lachat has done an extension to Speed in Voralpsee for which he proposes 9a. (c) Stefan Schlumpf Speed was put up in 1995 by Beat Kammerlander as an 8c+ "but anywhere else would be graded 9a". It does not end at the top so Cedric continued up the 8b extension of Lucy to the left. "So often he felt because his foot were slipping or other stupid things. Also it was really hard to memorize all the foot holds in this 30m line. Every hold looks kind of similar and the fact that he tried once per year, he forgot everything! that's Cedric!;-)"

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NUMBERS

Wednesday, 9 November

Route grade progress history

Everyone knows that Wolgang Güllich put up Action Direct in 1991, XI (8c+/9a) which later has been considered as the world's first 9a. But who pushed the standards before and during the 90-ies? Of course, as grades are subjective such a list might be changed in the future! 8a: 8a+: 8b: Wolfgang Güllich, Kanal im Rücken - 1984 8b+: Wolfgang Güllich, Punks in the Gym - 1985 8c: Wolfgang Güllich, Wallstreet - 1987 8c+: Ben Moon Hubble - 1990 9a+: 9b: Fred Ruhling, Akira - 1995 9b+: 2012

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NUMBERS

Wednesday, 9 November

Albarracin by Bosetti