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It segid narc 8c+ by Fabrizio Peri (51)

It segid narc 8c+ by Fabrizio Peri (51)

Fabrizio Peri, who did his third 9a in 2020, has done the third ascent of It segid narc (8c+) in Sperlonga. Laura Rogora did the FA of the very steep link-up in 2017 and the year later, Adam Ondra did the second ascent. The 51-year-old started climbing in 1979 and he did his first 8c at age 40 after having stopped bodybuilding.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying the route in April last year but then temperatures rose and I returned to the cave in November trying the route a couple of times a week.....until yesterday I succeeded! I'm very happy that I still get to be lucky enough to have fun with these grades. Lately, I've had to change my training method by reducing dry strength workouts because they are very traumatic, but I've replaced them with maximum bouldering sessions for my level. I am also very attentive to recovery and the day before climbing on rock I always insert some aerobic work. I always maintain a controlled diet and when I'm close to sending a route I reduce even more because 1 or 2 kg less makes the difference for me, after all, I know that afterwards I'll be rewarded with a nice sweet Italian 'tiramisu' very caloric 😁.

How do you manage climbing at such a high level at age 51?
It's very simple. It all comes from my great passion for climbing and the pleasure of training at the same time. I've always thought that the most beautiful routes are the most difficult ones, which is why I've always tried to improve. So it was a slow process that led me to understand myself to better manage training and climbing days. My biggest goal is always to repeat important routes where the strongest have passed. I would like to do it in Spain but my work and family commitments don't allow me to do it so I focus on areas close to home. I can train every day, sometimes even two sessions a day, alternating resistance with bouldering. I manage to climb about two times a week and do about two 5/6 day climbing trips a year.

What's your occupation?
I am a soldier of the Guardia di Finanza, and I work as a sports and climbing instructor.

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by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


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Slashface 8B by Alex Puccio

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Mar de Bering 9a/+ FA by Seb Bouin

Mar de Bering 9a/+ FA by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Mar de Bering 9a/+ in Meio Mango. "We are always amazed to be in a such beautiful place." Here is a recent interview with Seb, from last week, who in 2022 did four routes 9b/+. (c) Clarisse Bompard

Meio Mango is a hidden seacliff pearl located some 45 min south of Lisbon. Here is how Andre Neres described the crag back in 2019 when he had done the FA of Filipinos (9a). "Meio Mango is easily one of the best unknown crags in Europe, it has 10 years of existence, it is a seacliff 45 min south of Lisbon on a place called Cabo Espichel, over 150 routes together with a new sector we are bolting called Atlântida. Plenty of easy and medium routes and a lot of potential for hard stuff. With breathtaking sunsets, no phone connection, no human constructions, and dolphins cruising around frequently, it is a paradise by the sea."

Pungitopo 8c+ by Francesco Morandi

Pungitopo 8c+ by Francesco Morandi

Francesco Morandi has done Pungitopo (8c+) in Arco. The 29-year-old bolted it a couple of years ago and last year he invited Adam Ondra to try it out and he did the FA in September, on his second session. "Possibly Arco's most aesthetic hard line," Ondra commented in his video. (c) Stefano Ghisolfi

What is your climbing background?
I climb since I was 8 years old and I have climbed indoors until 15, having a couple of years break. I was feeling too much pressure from the competitions and I wasn't having fun anymore. So I quit the indoor competition world and decided to climb just for and against myself outdoors. That was my path.

Could you tell us more about the ascent?

After Adam did the FA, I got a shoulder injury on another route that kept me away from Pungitopo until two months ago. Yesterday I managed to clip the chain of this route after 40+ attempts in 16 days on the route. Is my hardest ascent up to date and by far the biggest effort I did. The mental battle I had to fight made my biggest journey on a route. First of the grade for me. Pungitopo is destinated to become a classic of the grade in Arco because of his beauty and rock quality. I would like to say thank you to all the people who believed and belayed me on the route.

Where does the name Pungitopo come from?
When I repelled down from the route while bolting I got in a big bush in Italian called Pungitopo, the plant makes some red fruits that look like Christmas tree balls. Christmas was a tradition with my grandma to go to pick some branches for making nice the house. As she passed away was good having a route with that name for remembering her.

Why did you decide to open up this climb for others to do before you did it yourself?
About letting other people try the project that I bolt I feel like is quite personal. My thoughts are that if I spend my energy on bolting and cleaning a new line or crag, and of course spending my own money to buy bolts and chains, it's fair enough that I try to make the FA. Then if the project feels too hard for me and I can't see the "light", I guess it doesn't make sense to keep it closed, and I'm happy to share it with other climbers and try to solve the route together.

How many routes have you bolted and how much more potential do you see around Arco?
I have bolted about 40 routes around Arco, and the potential is still high, especially for hard routes. The thing is that the crags left to bolt are the ones with a longer approach, but a lot of time it's worth it. The climbing scene in Arco nowadays is even more active compared to 10 years ago, as there are every year new crags it keeps the place interesting for the climbing community, especially because of the increasing number of people that start to climb per year.

The Megg 8C+ FA by Gabe Lawson

The Megg 8C+ FA by Gabe Lawson

Gabe Lawson, who previously had 8B+ as a PB, has done the FA of The Megg 8C+ in Squamish. "I called it The Megg, because it's very similar to a classic Chris Sharma 8a here called . It climbs with a very similar opening sequence but is much taller and harder. At the time, The Egg represented the next step in difficulty for Squamish." (c) Jacob Hoffman

Could you tell us about your climbing background and the hardest climbs you have done prior to this?
I started climbing in 2008 when I was 14, and since then I've mostly climbed outside. I took several years off due to some knee injuries, and for the past 2 years, I've been back in Squamish focusing on completing as many inspiring or undone climbs as I can. In April 2021, I did the third ascent of , by Tim Clifford, via his original start. Until now, that is by far the hardest boulder I've done. I climbed a handful of 5.14 First Ascents in 2022, most notably Tim's Sloper Problem 5.14b (8c), which was originally bolted by Tim Emmett, and Young King Dave 5.14c (8c+) bolted by Scott Milton in Paradise Valley.

Could you describe The Megg and how you projected it?
The Megg was a project for more than 20 years. It was tried briefly by visiting professionals like Nalle, Drew and Keenan, along with many locals. It took me 16 sessions spread across 10 months. At first, I wasn't sure if it was possible, and I spent months trying to find a sequence that could work. I generally don't climb indoors, so I didn't make a simulator. I mostly stretched and focused on weights and mobility training, and a very specific ketogenic diet. The Megg is around 16 moves, the first 4 being the hardest. My best guess would be that it's a V14 into a V12 vert section with no separation.

Could you say something more about the grade?
It's a very difficult boulder to grade because of the subtlety of the slopers, and the dependence on body position. No one has proposed a grade for it, until now, because nobody has been able to do all the moves. Drew Ruana suggested V16 could be fair, and given the number of V15+ climbers who could not link any moves, I think that it represents a significant step up in difficulty compared to any existing boulders in Squamish.

What 's next for you?
I'll spend one more year in Squamish in order to try and finish the remaining undone boulders, The Prow Wall - a 5.14a (8b+) multipitch by Sonnie Trotter, and a couple 15a (9a+) projects that are already bolted. There is a sit start to Room Service, which could be 9A, I believe this is the only project here harder than The Megg, so far.

Ephyra 8C+ and an 8C by Yannick Flohé

Ephyra 8C+ and an 8C by Yannick Flohé

Yannick Flohé has had a great trip to Chironico where he did Ephyra (8C+). "One of my favourite boulders so far big moves on pinches. Hard to grade might be easier with long arms but anyway I need the points for the ranking 🤑 4 sessions in two trips,".

Later on the same day he also sent From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C). "Couldn’t do the mantle last trip but somehow found myself on top of this block today right after sending Ephyria. Psyched to send my projects so quickly after the #onlytryneversent trip a couple of weeks ago." (c) Xaver Quintus

In the 8a's Climber of the Year list, the German was #3 based on being #5 in the Lead World Cup and #4 in the Boulder WC, although he skipped three events. His worst result, out of ten World Cups, was #7, at the Boulder World Champion in 2021. In the 8a rakning game, he was #6 in Boulder and he also sent four 8c+ routes.

What are your goals for 2023?
My Plan for 2023 is to focus on the comp season as usual but I’ll skip some world cups and prepare fo the world championship in Bern because it’s the first event to qualify for the Olympics. Later this year I hope to have some more time for outdoor projects and I’m also motivated to try some lead routes in Ceüse again.

I’m still improving in comp climbing I’ll keep competing and after that I’ll probably focus more on rock climbing and studying

The last Emperor 8A+ and an 8A by Emelie Gerhardt

The last Emperor 8A+ and an 8A by Emelie Gerhardt

Emelie Gerhardt, who last year did some ten 8A boulders, reports on Insta that she, during the first climbing day of 2023, sent The last emperor (8A+) and The Great Walk in Babylon (8A) in Val Calanca. (c) Julius Westphal

Could you tell us more about the ascents? Did you actually do them both in just one session?
We have been in this sector back in 2020 and I was climbing the 8A boulder on the right side of the block in one day. I did not try „The last emperor“ but it shares the first three intro moves. I just watched my boyfriend Julius. So yesterday I checked out the moves for the first time and send it the same day. „The great walk in Babylon “ is in another sector where we have been for the first time yesterday. I was able to climb it after checking out the moves.

The Ace 8B flash by Adam Ondra

The Ace 8B flash by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra reports on Insta that he has flashed Jerry Moffatt’s The Ace (8B) at the Stanage. "🌦 I have just come back from an intense week in Sheffield in the UK 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 A lot of exciting stuff was filmed, and you can look forward to quite a few exciting videos! 🤜🤛" (c) Petr Chodura

This should be the first flash of The Ace, which is a sit start to THE JOKER (8A), and Ondra's 12th flash 8B or 8B+. "Freak moment! Executed just perfectly! Thanks for the beta Will and Leon for beta, and extra psyche by the legend himself Jerry and Magnus!"