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God’s Own Stone 8b+ by Maya Ene (11) and her father Ionel (46)

God’s Own Stone 8b+ by Maya Ene (11) and her father Ionel (46)

Maya Ene (11) has had a good week doing God’s Own Stone 8b+ and Swingline 8b in Red River Gorge. During the last three months, the 137 cm tall and 30 kg, has also done two 7C+'. Her father Ionel (46), finished his World Cup career in 1999 by being #19 in Speed and #43 in Lead in the World Championship. His personal best 8c, he did in 2003 and recently he also did God's Own Stone.

"Both, my wife and I have been climbing for 30 years, so Maya was exposed to climbing at an early age. Plus, we own a small climbing gym in New Jersey so it seemed like just a matter of time before Maya started to take climbing more seriously. About three years ago I participated in a Psicobloc competition in Canada. She was so amazed by the cheers of the crowds that she decided to be "as strong as my father" as she would say. The determination of getting stronger grew bigger month after month. About six months ago, we went to a local bouldering area and she was able to hold very tiny crimps (the size of the edge of a credit card), so we decided to have her try harder stuff. She went from 5.13a (7c+) to 5.14a (8b+) (God's Own Stone) in five months.

Maya doesn't have a particular climbing training routine, however, we are both climbing three times a week. We take any occasion to climb outside since this is what we enjoy the most. While she does both, sport and bouldering, I believe she has a predilection for sport. It's amazing to see your child climb as strong as you."

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Seoknangil 8c+ by Chaehyeon Seo (17)

Chaehyeon Seo, who has qualified to Tokyo, has done Seoknangil 8c+ in Seonunsan. Three years ago, the Korean did her first 9a and in 2019, she won the Lead World Cup in a superior style and her worst result was #3 out of six events.

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Turkish Haircut 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (16)

Turkish Haircut 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (16)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 9a at age 13, has done the first repeat of Alex Megos Turkish Haircut 9a in Citdibi, after some 12 days projecting during two trips. "Puff, it was a long story with shattered skin, damaged tendon and tons of Footslips. So glad to finish this line, a really cool and unique climb!" (c) David Kaszlikowski/Verticalvision.pl

On Insta he describes the whole process taking it down. The 16-year-old has been travelling together with his parents for several years. "I have this separate homeschooling class. The school gives us works to do to get the annual grades, we have deadlines for them and we should fit in. We study and search for materials on our own or with help of side teachers)."

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Lapsus 9a+ (b) by Marcello Bombardi

Lapsus 9a+ (b) by Marcello Bombardi

Marcello Bombardi, who won one World Cup in 2017, has done the third ascent of Lapsus in Andonno giving it a 9a+ personal grade. Stefano Ghisolfi put it up in 2015 and it is an extension to Noia. The first repeat was done by Adam Ondra. Marcello has previously done five 9a's out of which four the last year. (c) Enrico Veronese

"So happy and relieved that my longest battle with a route so far is over! This route challenged and taught me a lot and I'm grateful for that! About the grade... I was able to use a kneebar that allows to recover before the last final boulder. It is not an easy kneebar, especially coming from below with a tired leg, but I think it could take away the full grade. I'm not good with grades and I've never even done more than 9a so this comes just from my consideration. Future repeaters will tell!"

How many sessions did it take in total and did you have to do any special training?
It took me 20 days spread over 4 months. I already climbed years ago Anaconda which is the 8c route in which Lapsus ends. Then last October I started to try Lapsus. The only special training I've done was about the kneebar. I've spent some session wandering around the gym and trying the most difficult kneebars. Everything else was just normal training for the competitions and trying Lapsus.

On Insta, he gives more details, "It has been a long adventure, the longest I have spent so far on a single route and it has put me to the test. From believing to be able to do it quickly, to changing the method too many times to find the most efficient one, to walking to the crag with snowshoes and half a meter of snow to take advantage of the last days of the winter season, to returning to spring and fall on the top several times on the same move, to losing enthusiasm due to skin pain caused by the very abrasive rock of the first part of the route, to getting with the final jug in front of the eyes but not being able to pull and grab it and, yesterday, to finally be able to commit the final jump and clip the chain."

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Noia 8c+ by Claudia Ghisolfi

Noia 8c+ by Claudia Ghisolfi

Claudia Ghisolfi has done her first 8c+, Noia in Andonno. Seve Scassa put it up as the first 8c+ in Italy in 1993. Claudia started working on it last November and continued projecting in April. The Italian, who is sister to Stefano, started doing World Cups in 2013 and 15 times she has made the semi. (c) Enrico Veronese

Are you planning to continue doing World Cups?
I don't know my shape in comp style but maybe I'll do some comps this June and July but then I think I'll start to work and I'll just dedicate climbing in crags 😊😊

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Josito Paradise Extension 8c/+ by Tobias Haug (48)

Josito Paradise Extension 8c/+ by Tobias Haug (48)

Tobias Haug, who is running the Josito guesthouse in Geyik Bayiri has done his hardest route ever by Josito Paradise Extension 8c/+ in Öküzini. The 48-year-old has previously done nine 8c's out of which the first in 2006. (c) David Kaszlikowski

"45m of very steep and fantastic climbing. The extension has three hard, very complex and physical boulder problems. It felt totally out of reach in the beginning. Seven long weeks of finding beta, trying and doubting often that I can ever succeed. I never climbed 8c+, that's why I can not really give that grade, but the route felt harder than all 8c I've climbed before."

How can you explain peaking at age 48 :) Any special training?
I think it is still possible to improve a lot in climbing, even after 32 years of living this passion. I'm thankful that I can be here at the camp in the position to exchange and learn a lot of good climbers that come to share nice times with us at the rocks. For sure to have a motivated climbing partner, like my wife Duygu, is also pushing a lot. Normally I don't like too much long projecting, but this time I really enjoyed the whole process, also mentally.

We climb most days. I do by side some campus moves on our training wall. For the project I concentrated on short bouldery routes for 3 weeks, which was a good preparation for the hard boulder problems in this long project.

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Euro Roof Low Low 8B by Natalia Grossman

Euro Roof Low Low 8B by Natalia Grossman

Natalia Grossman has done Euro Roof Low Low 8B in Little Cottonwood. "First go, second session!!! This climb truly has some amazing movement. I guess it is time to go deeper in the cave." (c) Quinn Mason

What can be found deeper in the cave?
If you go all the way to the bottom of the cave you’ll find the start of Grand Illusion, one of the most amazing lines I’ve seen! I believe there is also a higher start that is an 8B+, but I’m not positive.

Grand Illusion is the 8C+ or 9a+/9b that Nathaniel Coleman put up last year. It is 25 intensive moves almost roof climbing on granite without any rest which takes around two minutes to climb.

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