TOP IMAGES OF THE WEEK
Emily Harrington has done her fifth 8c, Stockboys Revenge in Rifle (CO). " The best of Rifle in one line. Turned the spirals to twirls with this one. What a year and what a way to top it off. Really proud and thankful 🥰." (c) Colette McInerney
The 35-year-old is one of the best multi-discipline female climbers in the world. In 2005, she got the silver in the World Championship and last year, she did a one-day ascent of the 40 pitches Golden Gate 8a on El Capitan. Emily has also summited Mount Everest and on Cho Oyu, 8 188m, she made a complete ski descent.
What about your boulder personal best?
My hardest boulder is only 7C! I suppose that’s the discipline I’m missing because I’ve never put any energy into bouldering outdoors. I always joke that I will start my bouldering career when I have a kid because bouldering is a bit easier than that rest with little ones :) ha! We’ll see though.
What is next?
I’m not sure actually. I had a big year of climbing with Yosemite last fall and then my Kyrgyzstan trip. Rifle was meant to be just for fun and I guess I had a lot of fitness :) Now I’m going to relax a little bit. I’m getting married in December :) I’d love to return to Spain in the spring however - it’s been a while.
Notworthy is that Emily has also openly been speaking about eating disorder since 2017 and she was part of the video documentary Light.
Taylor McNeill, who previously has done three 8C's, has done the FA of Moonlight Sonata 8C+ in Joe's Valley (UT). (c) Drew Mercer
"Three and a half years in the making. So much frustration knowing I was capable for so many years and not having it come together. Ultimate satisfaction. Realizing this is not the peak, but just a stepping stone on the path to something greater. It required the perfect harmony of mind, body, and spirit. Now for the sit start..."
Staša Gejo has done her first 8c, Battle Cat in Frankenjura. Just the last week, she talked about her previous eating disorder, Part 1 and Part 2. Below is the third and final part. Currently, the 175 cm tall weighs 69 kg.
"I did a variant of Battle Cat last year, Cringer 8b+, so I checked out the traverse and the top quickly afterwards. I had 3 serious sessions last year, but I lacked endurance. This year I went once in April and once last Sunday to dial in the moves again. It felt ridiculous how quickly I did it this year. This route is very special to me. It is very long, with no really hard moves, but all force you to dance and adapt your body position to it. I enjoyed it so much every time I climbed it. I kinda wish it took me longer 😅"
What is next?
I have another 8c project in Frankenjura - Father and Son. I tried it twice last year and never since; it is usually wet. Also an 8b+ I tried a few times.
Part 3 - Eating disorder:
"My name is Staša Gejo, I am 23 years old, 175 cm tall, and I have won medals at the World level competitions when I weighed 67 kg, 57 kg, 62 kg, 65 kg, 69 kg and 67 kg again. I had lost 10 kg in my teenage years, making me lose my periods, get prone to injuries and fall down this deep hole of never-ending starving, which luckily came to an end in 2017. I won all the possible titles in the Junior category by eating 1200 kcal, running 4 times a week and climb 5 times a week, all while attending a difficult high school programme IB (International Baccalaureate). Didn’t last long until I burned out. Mom and Dad took me to a nutritionist, a very respected doctor in the Serbian sports scene, dr. Marija Andjelković, who helped me rearrange my food intake, start eating more, and train harder. After a few years, I now have 50% muscle mass, 13% fat and a BMI of 22.2. I feel healthy, strong and confident.
To go back to how weight management should be approached. There is no such thing as quick weight loss. If you are one week away from the competition, all you can do is take down 1 kg max (of water). Everything else is not healthy in the long run.
Intake should be around 300 kcal less than the output to lose weight consistently. No difference to maintain weight.
Eating lots of protein prevents muscle loss in long term. The surplus in calories builds muscles in this case.
Cardio is good for fat burning when performed at 60% of HR max (meaning light activity) for more than 45 min, few times a week. In my experience HIIT just makes you hungrier.
Carbs are very good for you! 50-60% is a must-have for climbers.
Keep the fat under control! 20% of the daily intake. We all like to snack on nuts at the training or crag.
Balance is the key. Balance of trainings, diet, and the mind.
The stomach can learn anything. It learns how to binge, and it learns how to starve. Teach it how to be calm, controlled, and functional.
These are just some basics. I recommend reading PEAK by Dr. Marc Bubbs for more insights. I am not promoting the bulky climbing chicks' movement. I am suggesting that a good diet offseason, combined with proper weightlifting, strength training and injury prevention can lead to very impressive results on the wall. The real power is born, you can do moves you never could before. You can climb for so much longer and more intense than ever. The recovery is much better and eventually, the hormones regulate themselves too.
It is hard to adapt to the new look. We all admire that skinny body we once had. Want to go back there so badly…. but remind yourself that it is just lots of trouble masked up in a sculpted appearance. Once you match the way you feel and look, that is when you have hit the right balance. Whenever life gets hard and you start falling into the disordered eating trap, try to remember why the end scenario would be really bad for your health."
Ida Kupś has done two 8c's in Rodellar; El hijo libre: "Hardest of 8c I've done, but worth the effort. One of the best moves I've ever done, perfect technical roof climbing." Florida: "I would say this route is more of a mental than a physical challenge. You’re getting to the upper crux completely rested with plenty of time to think while resting which results in putting too much pressure on yourself and falling off the boulder doing some stupid mistakes :) For me, Florida is not as good as El hijo but still, both are world-class routes."
Laura Rogora tried Erebor 9b/+ for two days in March and already on the first day she did all the moves. Returning from the World Championship in Russia, where she got the bronze, the 20-year-old needed only four more days for sending it, doing three attempts per session. Source: PlanetMountain
Noteworthy is that FA Stefano Ghisolfi projected it for some 20 days before sending it, including falling more than ten times on the last moves. As can be seen, comparing it with the Ghisolfi video, they used different beta in many sequences. Ghisolfi has commented on youtube saying that she used some "microscopical holds" for the jump, which was smaller than the tickmarks put on them.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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