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We can build you 8B+ by Alex Puccio

We can build you 8B+ by Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio has done the Dave Graham's classic We Can Build You (8B+) at Mt Evans, Insta video. In total, the runner-up in the 2014 World Championship has done 250+ boulders 8A and harder including nine 8B+'. In effect, Alex has, by far, the most impressive women's career boulder tick list. (c) Robin O'Leary

"I started trying We can build you this summer for the first time and tried not to get too wrapped up in it. I took my time by doing other things as well. I kind of naturally built up to it and then the last 2 sessions before I sent I climbed it from 3 moves into the end. But each session I never went to it fresh, I would get on boulders before it, 7C+ up to 8A+. The last session was the first time I got on it right after warming up and what do you know, it worked! :)

After sending it I rested about 15 min and then decided to re-climb it in sections so I could make a better little video of it. I pulled onto the start so I could do the first part first and then I ended up just repeating the whole climb again. It’s funny when you take the pressure away from your mind how much different things can feel."


How has the summer been and what are your autumn plans?
It has been a good balance of training inside quite a bit and getting outside a couple of days a week this summer.

Now all I’m doing is just more of the same. Trying some harder boulders mixed with some not as hard as well as training inside. Trying to have fun, keep my mind free when I’m climbing at least, and enjoy the good weather! :)

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Luca Bana and the FA of Extrasistole 9a

Luca Bana did the FA of Extrasistole galoppante (9a) in December 2021. "Outstanding project on the 'heart' sector, bolted in 2010 by Yuri parimbelli and remained unclimbed until now. A mix of big exposure, rock quality and savage moves makes it one of the best hard routes of the area!"

Japan, USA and Slovenia dominated the 2022 WC

Here is the Combined national World Cup ranking in 2022. It was more or less the same ranking in 2021, aside from Japan creating an even bigger gap between themselves and the other countries chasing them. The Czech Republic has dropped in ranking due to the absence of Adam Ondra. Remarkably, Sloveni…

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Connor Herson (19) - multi discipline excellence

Connor Herson (19) - multi discipline excellence

Connor Herson made his first 8a headline in 2018 when he did an 8c+, 2nd go at age 14. In the same year he repeated The Nose 8b+ MP; and was #11 in the Youth World Championship. Earlier this year he did the bolted route Empath 9a (+) on trad gear and three weeks ago he was #12 in the YWC after being #2 in the qualification round. In other words, Connor is the #1 youngster in the world when it comes to multi-discipline climbing. In the picture by Christian Adam, Connor onsights, Moonlight Buttress, a 7c multi-pitch.

Do you boulder?
Bouldering is certainly my weakest discipline, so hopefully, I can boulder a bit more in the next few years. It’s always helpful for me to work on my weakness!

How have you gone about trying and excelling at so many different types of climbing?
Both my parents have been climbing for several decades, so they exposed me to so many different climbing disciplines. During the weekend it made more sense to go up multi-pitch climbs in the Sierras, but on weekdays I climbed with the youth team at my local climbing gym, which got me interested in competition climbing.

What is your next plan?
I have a trip to Rifle planned, and then I’ll be starting college at Stanford. I’m not sure how much free time I will have in college, but I’m hoping I can still get out to Yosemite on some weekends!

Do you have any big long-term goals such as the Olympics, climbing 9b, or a big wall FA?
I don’t have any particular goals at the moment - I think it depends on how college goes. But I’d like to pursue outdoor climbing more, especially trad/big walls.

Why is studying so important to you?
I think I am just as excited about studying as I am about climbing. Even though I have some very generous and supportive sponsors, I think I’d love to try to keep that balance between academics and climbing. To clarify, although I’m starting college in a week, I don’t intend to stop climbing at all. I might be climbing less frequently, but I’ll still be finding projects, pushing myself, and - most importantly- having fun.

Grupper and Mori win in Edinburgh

Grupper and Mori win in Edinburgh

Jesse Grupper from the USA was the only one to top out the final route in Edinburgh. Luka Potocar from Slovenia took the silver and Toby Roberts from Great Britain the bronze. Japan was the best overall having five guys in the Top-11. Interview with Jesse is coming up. Grupper commented to IFSC. "I’m pretty ecstatic. After last weekend [in Koper] I definitely felt I was at a low point in competition climbing. I knew I still had it in me, and I have been training pretty hard. I am probably the most fit I have been all season and it feels so rewarding to feel that I am back."

Grupper is one of the slower climber on the circuit and has been timed out. "I was super aware of the time. In qualis I had six seconds left. In semis I had three seconds left. The only way to go in finals was to have no seconds left." Complete results
(c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

Among the females, the routes turned out to be too easy again. First, we saw six double tops in the qualifications, and then Ai Mori from Japan and Chaehyun from Korea topped the semi. Janja Garnbret then topped the final but Mori won on countback as she also topped. "I was feeling nervous before I started because I knew Janja had reached the top, and that meant I had to. But when I climb I just forget about my nerves and enjoy it." Seo took the bronze and was timed out. Complete results

My Curse 8c+/9a FA by Joe Skopec

My Curse 8c+/9a FA by Joe Skopec

Joe Skopec has done the FA of My Curse (8c+/9a) in Lion's head. His previous PB was the FA of Home Away From Home (8c+) which took him 2+ years to put up. The access situation is very sensitive. Here you can stay updated.

"Fought this route for over one year… I had to push my limits mentally/physically. I trained so hard and gave up so much in life to send this route… It’s time to relax and move on to other adventures in life. Hopefully, my Curse of being so obsessive to complete any goal does not come back for a while. My mind needs a break. I need a break haha. It’s done… it’s finally done… I can sleep in peace :)"

Could you tell us more about this FA?
The route breaks down to 5.13d (8b) to a good rest, v12 (12 moves 8A+), to a good rest, to a pumpy 5.13d (8b) that finishes with huge dyno to the anchors. But the route comes down to more than just the difficulty. Many big run-outs and skipping two bolts during the crux were always a mental battle for me. (I usually only train alone in the garage and don’t have a chance to work my mental game on rock).

Lion's head cliff is always an adventure. The hike in is a minimum of one hour, rap down 100 feet (33m), and then at the end of the day climbing back out with the backpack on is always a bit more tiring than you want haha. Please come prepared for Lion's head. One can easily be stuck at the bottom of the cliff if one is not experienced enough. As for the grade, all I know is it’s harder than the 8c+‘s I’ve tried, so I’ll grade it 8c+/9a. I have no idea what a 9a feels like. Took about one year and a half to send :)

La menina sixtina R2 8c+ (9a) by Daniel Fuertes (41)

La menina sixtina R2 8c+ (9a) by Daniel Fuertes (41)

Daniel Fuertes, who, two years ago, climbed Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9b), has done La menina sixtina R2 8c+ (9a) in Rodellar.

The first pitch is an endurance 8c, easy for some people but very hard for me. The second pitch is more tricky with very technical kneebars. Sending the first pitch was the hardest for me. It took me about ten sessions. Once I did the first pitch I also did the second pitch."

Insomniac 8C+ by Shawn Raboutou

Shawn Raboutou reports on Insta that he has repeated Drew Ruana’s Insomniac at Lincoln Lake. It starts by doing eight moves of Wheel of wolvo (8B+) followed by a good rest and then continues through We Can Build You (8B+).

The 24-year-old has previously done a handful 8C+ boulders and Alphane 9A, which was published several months after the ascent. 8a has also received word that he has done one more 9A FA, The Megatron project in Eldorado Canyon - A seven-move 8C low start, with zero resting options, into Daniel Wood’s Tron 8B+ put up in 2017.

If this turns out to be true, he must be considered the best boulderer in the world along with Daniel Woods.

Ghisolfi breaking the beta on Silence

Stefano Ghisolfi is making progress on Silence (9c) by breaking the Adam Ondra beta. Adam is excited to see that Stefano has taken on the challenge, but thinks the new beta is equally hard.

Ramayana 8b+ MP by Alex Huber (54)

Ramayana 8b+ MP by Alex Huber (54)

Alex Huber, who has been a globally impressive first ascensionist since the 90s, has put up the six pitch Ramayana 8b+ on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria. In the area, the 54-year-old has previously put up two 8b+ and two 8c MPs. Alex worked it last autumn climbing ground-up alone with a soloist set up.

"Ramayana is a new, six-pitch long alpine climb in the Tyrolean Steinplatte which hosts many other alpine climbs like Nirwana, Sansara, Mauerläufer, Highway, and Feuertaufe. It's basically a challenging route with high technical difficulties, but it also needs to be protected with removeable gear. The first redpoint ascent took place on the 18th of July. Thanks to Tobi Ebner for giving me the belay on the ascent. Big thanks to Klaus Fengler for taking the great photos."

Pitch 1: 35 meters, 6c+, Cams, Nuts
Pitch 2: 20 meters, 7a+, Cams
Pitch 3: 40 meters, 8b+, 5 bolts
Pitch 4: 25 meters, 7c, 1 bolt, Cams
Pitch 5: 20 meters, 7c, 1 bolt, Cams
Pitch 6: 35 meters, 8a+, 3 bolts, Cams