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Spanish girls cranking hard during this Summer

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Spanish girls cranking hard during this Summer

After 3 Summers trying it, suffering not-so-good conditions, abandoning it for big walls abroad and, more recently, having to fight against herself, by the beginning of August, Andrea Cartas was eventually able to clip the anchor of the mythic 8c in Baltzola, White Zombie. In her scorecard she writes: "Thanks everybody for the support!! I only needed to believe in myself... the best line of my life and a moment to be remembered forever..." Here you can read the interview we had with her (in Spanish), together with beautiful pics taken by her husband and also strong climber, Carlos Padilla. Another strong Spanish girl during this Summer has been Mar Álvarez, who in two weeks clipped the chains of her first two 8b+ routes, Ixeia and Tripa de Conejo, both in Rodellar. Our Spanish editor, Ignacio Sandoval Burón, also had an interview with Mar shortly after she sent the first of those two routes.

3ª etapa do Brasileiro de Boulder na TV (Rede Minas)

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3ª etapa do Brasileiro de Boulder na TV (Rede Minas)

A Rede Minas leva ao ar nesta terça, dia 11, às 22h, o programa +Ação, mostrando a cobertura completa do 3ª etapa do Campeonato Brasileiro de Boulder. Quem perder esta transmissão poderá ainda assistir ao programa na quinta, dia 13, às 17h30 ou no sábado, dia 15, às 8h. A Rede Minas pode ser sintonizada no canal 9 da TV aberta, em Belo Horizonte e algumas cidades da região metropolitana. Na TV a cabo, ocupa o canal 20. Fonte: 4CLIMB.

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8c by Audrey Sniezek (40)

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8c by Audrey Sniezek (40)

Audrey Sniezek has stepped up from 8b to having done Extended Evil, 8c at Little Si in 2012. Yesterday she fell at the chains. "There are two distinct place where I could have fallen and did fall, high on the route. I thought the redpoint crux would be the 2nd to last boulder problem, but I managed it both times I found myself high on the route. It turned out the last move to the chains caused me the most trouble. The feet disappeared, I was super pumped and I had to throw to a good hold. Despite the good hold at the chains, the first time I was there, I found myself too low and unable to sort out how to get my feet up before my arms blew out. I tried to back climb one move to reset and I started falling away from the wall just a bit and that's all it took to have me flying in the air. That was a heartbreak moment when I knew I was only 1 move away from the send." Full length blog from Audrey who started climbing 20 years ago and who is yet another perfect example of the uniqueness of age and performance in climbing.

Kili makes 8c++ FA in Australia

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Kili makes 8c++ FA in Australia

La Sportiva has the Kilian Fischuber summary of his summer in Australia where he beside doing some boulders up to 8B also did the FA of a Southern Delight, 8c+ which is a link-up where the crux was a diagonal dyno." The challenge in the jump was less about the distance, and more about the fact that it was totally blind." (c) Chuck Fryberger Kilian is known for his hard non-inflated grades and as he has been dominating the Boulder WC scene for eight years he is the first candidate to win the world championship which takes place outside Paris next week. In 2005, he did get the silver but in the last three world championships he has missed the final.

8B+ (2 laps!) and more for Nakajima in Colorado

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8B+ (2 laps!) and more for Nakajima in Colorado

Toru Nakajima has continued to have fantastic climbing days in Colorado, racking up over 100 points in one day at Lincoln Lake (not counting 2 of his 3 laps on Bebe Wolverine 8A+) and yesterday climbing Big Worm (8B+) twice! He has also recently made many one day ascents including Clan of the Cave Bears 8B, The Mote in God's Eye 8B, No More Greener Grasses 8A+, Ground Control 8A, Buck Knife 8A, Bierstadt 7C+, Public Execution 7C, Purple is Not a Color 7C+, Wild Basin 8A, and Unshackled sit, flashed Unshackled 7C+, and made perhaps the first ascent of Cloak of The Tiger Direct 8A? He's got just 4 more days left in Colorado. Photo: Toru on a lap of Bebe Wolverine 8A+ at Lincoln Lake.

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9a by Mathieu Bouyoud

Mathieu Bouyoud has added an 8b+ extension to Titan 8c making it his first 9a FA in La Balme and he goes to #6 in the game. He has previously done two 9a's.

As we already posted in this news, around 20 people from different climbing magazines and websites were gathered together in a reunion in Arco (Italy) to choose who the winners of the so-called "Climbing Oscars" were. Here you are with the spectacular videos which those present during the awards ceremony (photo gallery) enjoyed watching as a presentation of those athletes nominees in each one of the three categories: 1.- Stefan Glowacz - Arco Rock Legends Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil 2012: 2.- Arco Rock Legends - La Sportiva Competition Award 2012. Winner: Anna Stöhr 3.- Arco Rock Legends - Salewa Rock Award 2012. Winner: Sasha Digiulian.

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Puccio and Woods win the Battle

In a great show in Lillehammer in Norway where the athletes had created spectacular boulders, Alex Puccio and Daniel Woods won the Euro 1 800. #2 Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Carlo Traversi #3 Hannah Midtbö and Magnus Midtbo