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8B+ (C) by Carlo Traversi

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8B+ (C) by Carlo Traversi

Carlo Traversi has made his fourth 8C in Magic Wood in just two weeks, Mystic Stylez giving it a personal grade of 8B+. In the picture you can see that he had to place a jacket on the top as it just started to rain. "Just before the storm. Really nice to finish this thing off before leaving Magic Wood. Almost sent first day and thought it could be 8B, but 3 days of falling on the same move and it makes sense as 8B+. Strangely powerful climbing." Carlo is #4 in the world ranking game but without all his personal grades, he would have been #2.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Advertorial: For the SS2022 collection, La Sportiva releases the new version of the Katana Laces shoe, which enriches the climbing category and is presented as …

Lena Müller "ecopoints" 350 km on a bike to climb two dream cracks

Last year, we made an interview with Lena Müller and the ecological crises. She is currently doing a PhD at the University of Innsbruck about the effects of climate change on mountain ecosystems. In the documentary video she takes her bike 350 km to climb two dream cracks.

Janja trains almost only on a spraywall

"I do 95 % of the training on the wall. I am not doing any finger boarding. I am not doing any fitness. I am training six times a week for four hours on the spray wall and that is it. I kept repeating to myself, "if I am not having fun, then I will not win". It is as simple as that." Janja also thin…

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Advertorial: Another Play in Paradise is a spicy route, one of 129 that traverse the south-facing slopes of the Lienz Dolomites in 5 sectors ranging in difficul…

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The hardest routes in Frankenjura = Markus Bock

Markus Bock has the Topp-100 list of the hardest routes in Frankenjura and out of the 14 9a and harder, he has done the FA of all but Action Directe by Wolfgang Güllich. What is interesting to know is that Güllich 11, originally converted to 8c+/9a, are now considered as possible the hardest 9a. It should also been mentioned that personal down grades have been mentioned for more than half of Bock's FA's.

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Red River

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Adam Ondra grades interview

UPClimbing has asked Adam some interesting questions about grades. Concerning the diatribe between Nalle Hukkataival and Paul Robinson: how important do you think it is to declare your beta? I think it’s important, in order to be respectful towards the first ascender. We could say that Nalle’s behavior on that occasion was a bit offensive towards Paul.

8c+ for Ashima Shirashi (11) on her sixth day in a row climbing

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8c+ for Ashima Shirashi (11) on her sixth day in a row climbing

Ashima Shirashi has sent Southern Smoke 8c+ in the Red River Gorge. This is the hardest send for any person of her age, supplanting Brooke Raboutou's summer send of 8c with Welcome to Tijuana in Rodellar. Ashima sent her first 8b+ only 6 days ago, flashed her first 8b+ the next day, and now has sent her first 8c+. Read the full story from editor Mikey Williams of Deadpoint Magazine. Photo (c) Deadpoint Magazine.

Nalle talks roped climbing

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Nalle talks roped climbing

"Climbing in Australia and mainly Taipan Wall really opened my eyes to what route climbing can be at its best; 100% natural perfect rock, interesting movement high off the ground and run out! Just like bouldering but for 45 meters! Often route climbing tends to be very static and basic and in many places manufactured holds are unfortunately common which kills my motivation completely. In the Grampians this is not the case at all! I can't wait to get back on one amazing project at Taipan Wall, which I got really close to sending on my last day there!" -- Nalle Hukkataival in this article.