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8C FA by Shinichiro Nomura

8C FA by Shinichiro Nomura

Shinichiro Nomura has made the FA of Loca (8C) in Shiobara and repeated
Nehanna (8C) in Gero.

In regards to Nehanna he says on Insta that it can be linked with an 8B+ in order to repeat Dai Koyamada's Nayuta 8C+. In the 8a ranking game, the 24-year-old is #4. In total, he has now done 12 8C's, out of which five in 2021.

Extrasistole galoppante 9a FA by Luca Bana

Extrasistole galoppante 9a FA by Luca Bana

Luca Bana has done the FA of Extrasistole galoppante (9a) in CORNALBA. The selfie is from the ledge where the route starts.

"Extrasistole galoppante is an impressive 30 meters line bolted in 2010 by Yuri Parimbelli on the heart-shaped rock at Cornalba's crag. Tried quickly by Adam Ondra during the days doing the FA of Goldrake 9a+, the same year. Later it has seen rare attempts by a few other people but remained unclimbed. I tried it out of curiosity for the first time two years ago managing to do all the sections and some promising links in a few sessions, but not enough for the send. Last year I basically had not the possibility to try it due to the pandemic restrictions. This winter I went back to Cornalba full of motivation. The feeling on the moves was good from the beginning but I had to regain some specific endurance and fight a bit against the conditions, until the 26th of December when I finally made it to the top on my 5th session of the year.

Surprisingly, the process for the send has been more intricate and mentally harder if compared to the rapidity with which I climbed 'Goldrake', probably due to a variety of factors and beyond the fact that a FA requires on average more time to complete: for example, the difficulty to find good conditions as a result of the full sun-oriented face (quite bad for the small low friction holds on the crux), the possibility (for me) to do only 2-3 good attempts per day or the uncomfortable and unusual location of the route on the wall. Regarding the grade, I suggest a personal 9a, also if compared to other routes such as Goldrake itself and considering the effort and the time invested for sending. "

MORE NEWS

Jungle Speed 8c+ (9a) by Niki Rusev (15)

Jungle Speed 8c+ (9a) by Niki Rusev (15)

Niki Rusev has, after just two sessions, done Jungle speed (8c+) in Siurana. It was originally 9a but most consider it 8c+ now. “ Really hyped I figured out surprisingly fast all the moves and in the second day I managed to send it. Even with the broken crimp at the first jump crux I think hard 8c+ is okay for it:)“

The 15-year-old has previously done two 9a’s more than a year ago. The Bulgarian is also a very successful competition climber who in 2021 won the Youth World Champion in Boulder and in the European Championship, he won in both Boulder and Speed. In Lead, he has gotten one silver and bronze in the European Cup.

There is a video on his Insta, where he comments. "One interesting fact is that the name of the line is an idea from a Bulgarian (Alex Yanev). The incredible Markus Jung bolted it in 2009 and trough the whole climbing trip they played one board game called ,,Jungle speed”."

The Lonely Mountain 9b by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has done the first repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi's The Lonely Mountain (9b) in San Paolo. "A little harder than Erebor, actually the first part is shorter, but involves one really hard crux. Hard to grade, but probably doesn't brake the 9b+ barrier. Tried one day after Erebor and this trip two days."

In total, the 28-year-old has now done 24 routes 9b to 9c which can be compared with nine for Stefano Ghisolfi and seven for Alex Megos, Jakob Schubert and Chris Sharma who are runner-ups on that list. Note that grades are subjective meaning the above figures are just estimations.

Ryuichi Murai takes down Floatin (8C+) in Mizugaki with a unique sequence. Hardcore bouldering does not get much harder and cooler than this. The 27-year-old has now repeated 14 8C's and put up three 8C+.

Floatin 8C+ by Ryuichi Murai

Ryuichi Murai takes down Floatin (8C+) in Mizugaki with a unique sequence. Hardcore bouldering does not get much harder and cooler than this. The 27-year-old has now repeated 14 8C's and put up three 8C+.

Off the Wagon Sit 8C+ by Sergii Topishko

Off the Wagon Sit 8C+ by Sergii Topishko

Sergei Topishko, who previously just have done one 8B+, has done Off the Wagon Sit (8C+) in Valle Bavona. (c) Fedir Samoilov

Sergeii has been a very active competition climber during the last twenty years and in 2015, he was #4 in a Boulder WC. However, during the last six WCs since 2019, he has not made semi.

Please describe the process taking down your first 8C+?
Well, it started this April when I first tried to do the stand start. I did it super fast and left the sit start to my last day of that trip. Sadly conditions were not the best on that day to make the cross move, so I was sure that I am gonna do it for sure the next time. And, better late than never it happened on my 2nd sesh today, just after a quick warm up from the first try.

How can you explain the great progress at age 33?
It’s hard to say about the progress this year. This boulder fit me a lot and I am trying to spend more time outdoors during the last few years. Maybe I just became stronger… Age is just a number, when you have no injuries you can climb.

What is next?
I tried La Rustica today after sending Wagon and made the crux move to the pocket for few times, so I think I will put it together this trip. Dreamtime is also nice one, I think I will do it, and Poison the well (I tried this one in spring it was not so bad actually and I think I am ready for it now). I still have a lot of time in Ticino, till 13th Jan

What are your 2022 plans?
I will take part in European Champ for sure and some of the world cups, or maybe better clime some more 8C/+. You never know what’s better. I like comps too, but when you just compete and don’t climb outdoor, it’s not about climbing you know

Taurus 9b FA by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has made the FA of Taurus (9b) in Moravský kras and there is a video on his Insta. "HARD. Very bouldery route, first 9 moves are definitely 8C+ boulder problem, then 8b topout where I fell once due to numb fingers. Super glad to finish it off before the season was over."

More comments on his Insta where says that he has probably never spent so long time solving a boulder problem as he did at the start of Taurus. Interesting is that the crag closes 1/1 due to bird nesting. Adam also says that there are several harder lines at the crag which he will check out in 2022. In spite of having focused on the Olympics, in the end, he is yet again #1 in the 8a ranking game.

Power slave 8A+ by Allison Vest

Power slave 8A+ by Allison Vest

Allison Vest, who the last two months has done three 8B's, has done Power Slave 8A+ in Red Rock (NV). "Two sessions to send this thing. Painful and punchy. Took me a while to figure out which beta was going to work for me. Foot first to the finish!" (c) Sean Faulker

In the 8a female ranking game, Allison is #2. Interesting is that just 15 months ago, she had just done one 8A. The main reason for this great development is that the 26-year-old has stopped focusing on comps and have had more time being outdoors.

Lethal Design 8A+ by Solveig Korherr

Lethal Design 8A+ by Solveig Korherr

Solveig Korherr has done Lethal Design (8A+) in Red Rocks. Video on her Insta. She took it down in just two hours although her previous best was 7C+. The 23-year-old has been on a long road trip in Canada and the USA since October where she has visited numerous crags including trying trad climbing in Indian Creek and climbing up to 8c+ in RRG. (c) Jon Shen

Could you please say something about your trip and your interest trying different disciplines?
I have mainly been sport climbing over the last few years. I completed two of my big dream routes and I felt ready to try something new. We spent two weeks in Indian Creek where I learnt to better crack climb. It was an excellent spot to improve crack specific techniques since the rock forces you to learn to jam and use crack techniques. Right now, I am quite motivated to explore my limits in bouldering. We are in Red Rocks, Las Vegas. This area is great for combining many different disciplines. The variety is great for my motivation because, in the past, I often felt burnt out after long periods of hard sport climbing. This next year in 2022, I am very psyched to integrate more bouldering and trad climbing in the future.