Isles of Wonder Sit 8C (+) by Will Bosi

Isles of Wonder Sit 8C (+) by Will Bosi

William Bosi has done the first repeat of Aidan Robert’s Isles of Wonder Sit (8C) in Ogwen valley, and here is the video. ”Really happy to send this king line! I think my beta is easier than Aidan's so I think 8C is fair.

During the last 12 months, Will has done two 9A’s, two 8C+’ and eighth 8C’s and his 8a annual score is 12 403, which is the highest ever achieved. However, in the All time-high list, Bosi is #5 after Woods, Webb, Ondra and Cameroni.

Can you tell us more about the ascents, the new beta and the number of sessions needed?
It took three sessions total counting my first day where I did the stand a couple of years ago. I had my second session on Friday and dropped the last move a couple of times before deciding to stop and return yesterday.

I used the starting heel hook for the first two moves rather than just the first which meant I was able to avoid the shoulder move being as savage.


by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

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Martin Stranik sends To tu jeste nebylo (9a)

Martin Stranik sends To tu jeste nebylo (9a)

Martin Stranik, #2 in the Boulder WCH in 2007 and #4 in the Lead WCH in 2021, has repeated Adam Ondra's To Tu Ještě Nebylo (9a) in Labské údolí. "Hardest route on CZ sandstone! Tried occasionally the last years and this spring focused on it more and did it on my 4th session. So cool route, intense 17m of climbing without rest." (c) Jan Simanek

What is the route's background?
Germans bolted from the top, which is against the rules, then bolts were removed and Ondra Beneš started bolting from the ground. He put three bolts and then Adam [Ondra] added the 4th bolt. Adam made the FA and the others ascents are: Alex Megos, Felix Neumarker and Ondra Beneš.

What are your competition plans this year?
All lead WC, Prague and Brixen boulder WC ;)

Duygu Haug (44) does ”Kanatlarim var Ruhumda” (8c)

Duygu Haug (44) does ”Kanatlarim var Ruhumda” (8c)

Duygu Haug, who did her first 8b at age 36, has done "Kanatlarım var Ruhumda" (8c) in Çitdibi. ”Pure happiness and emotional! Some routes mean a lot to me and this route is one of them and shining on the wall. Thanks to my husband [Tobi] for bolting, for patient belayings and creating amazing line as always. My pleasure to climb your routes. Can be soft or not I can not say something for the grade but I had some spicy moves as short person.” (c) Ann Smolenskaya

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the name of the route?
The route name “Kanatlarim Var Ruhumda” (eng: My Soul has Wings) comes from a famous Turkish pop song. The song is about freedom for women in relationships, it is telling about a girl that doesn’t want to commit only to one connection. Also it’s about finding your own way with all mistakes, failures, happinesses... The song described kind of good the process which I had with this route. I touched this route first time 2 years ago but I never committed 100% to focus on it. In between doing a lot of other climbing, I came back from time to time to the route without too much expectations. Finally my wings carried me up to the chain without too much bad wings :)

How much do you train and climb in a normal week?
I do only rock climbing , 4-5 times a week. I do not train. Sometimes we climb a lot of routes in a day in between 7c-8a (the routes which we climbed before). Try to climb the routes with different beta or skip the rest position and not doing kneebars.