Piotrek Czarnecki has done his first 9a, Cabane au Canada in Rawyl. "Great line! Long, endurance, natural and beautiful. Not sure about the grade, my hardest ever but 9a? Maybe very soft 9a or 8c+ don't know. Very Happy 4try!" His comment might reflect that his previous personal best is 8c.
Dave Graham has flashed Tea with Elmarie, 8A+ in Rocklands. "Wow, sick rig! Felt hard when I climbed it, maybe my beta was not the easiest solution, so I am not sure about the grade...but I have climbed 8A+ here which have felt easier then this...so that counts for something. Syked I didn't punt." Dave has also done three 8B's the last week and in total he has done some 330 boulders 8A+ or more. Since 2000, the living legend has been in the 8a Top-3 Combined rankings every year.
TOP IMAGES OF THE WEEK
On August 25, 2012 James Webb had a great day at Lincoln Lake, sending Clan of The Cave Bears and The Mote in God's Eye, both 8B. He had briefly tried both problems a few days earlier and finished them both quickly. He also put up the first ascent of Buck Knife, a dyno to arete project that Chris Schulte shared with him. He suggests 8A and says it may be easier if you are tall. Climbing with Webb was visiting Japanese wunder-teen Toru Nakajima. Nakajima repeated Buck Knife and made perhaps the fastest ascent of Clan of the Cave Bears. He arrived in Colorado only a few days earlier and this was his first day climbing at altitude. He managed to overcome mild altitude sickness to send this tall compression test piece, an impressive feat considering the problem's length and relative few ascents. Nakajima will be in Colorado through early September so it will be exciting to see what else he can accomplish. Article on Nakajima's spring break trip to England. Photo Nakajima at Lincoln Lake (c) Jackie Hueftle
Hugo Meignan has during the last week done three 8b+ out of which Ixeia, second go, in Rodellar. The 16 year old has also osighted four routes 7c+ and 8a. Hugo is the oldest of five climbing Meignan siblings and soon we will get the nice story from his father Lucas. Thoma Meignan, see picture, has done his first 8b+, Ixeia in Rodellar. The last months he has also stepped up his game by doing three 8b's. Update: Today, Hugo did his first 8c, Pata Negra.
Recently, World Cup ace, Kilian Fischhuber climbed the first ascent of the extension of Invisible Fist on Taipan Wall, taking this route all the way to the top. Vertical Life reports "apparently the top section is around 32 on its own. Originally this was a Garry Phillips project, although his version started up Snake Flake". The image is from Chuck Fryberger who's making a new movie 'The Network' which follows Killian as he "journeys around the world competing in the World Cup and setting new standards on rock". --LC
Kilian Fischhuber, the best competition boulderer in the history who the last ten World Cups been Top-6, missed the semi Top-20 in the Munich Boulder World Cup. Complete results This means that Rustam Gelmanov, who qualified as #5, has secured the title 2012. Other big names missing the semi were: Verhoeven, Lachat, Hori, Hojer and Becan. During the last nine years, Kilian has won five titles and for the remaining four years, he was #2 (or maybe #3 in 2012). Rustam has during the last four years been, 6 - 5 - 2 - 5.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Chris Sharma talks about his Golpe de Estado (9b) in Siurana on Insta. "Could it have actually been the worlds first 9b+ ???🤷♂️ Either way, it’s such a badass route and would be so cool to see some other top climbers check it out." Chris says he is surprised that no climber had tried it for a long…
We are living in a society that is more structured than ever. Climbing has become a mainstream sport and coaching, courses, competitions and trainers are the new norms for the climbing kids. Adults can get training advice from YouTubers and On-Line programs. Only some 20 years ago, this did not exis…
An easy way to find the softest grades is to search the most repeated of each grade. One good example of this is found on Escalade9 which started listing all 9a routes in the world. During the last couple of years, many of them have been downgraded and thus their list now includes 963 routes and var…
Oriane Bertone, who did her first 8A+, out of 19, at age 12, has done Karma (8A+) in Fontainebleau. "This time it was dry and cold in Font ! I felt it quite easy in these good conditions. I was surprised to sent it on my first try of this session. I am so happy to send this amazing and iconic line o…
"Low percentage moves" are something athletes use to describe moves that often challenge your coordination. They are tricky and sometimes feel slippery or involve a dynamic move to a shallow one or two-finger pocket. In competition climbing, the route setter often set low percentage coordination mov…
Here is a quick sum-up of how sport climbing and its ethics have developed throughout the years. At the beginning of the era, ethics was copied from trad climbing and has later been made more liberal. The mentioned years from 1980 are all estimations. 1975: Kurt Albert painted red dots on the clim…
Magnus Midtbo is the biggest climber Youtuber in the world with over one million subscribers. What is not so well known is that he was an excellent competition climber having won 13 Euro Cups and a Youth World Champion. As a senior, out of his 50 last WCs and World Championships, he only once missed…
IFSC has presented a new Combined scoring format by points. The max score is 100 points in each discipline. Here is one example of how the winner in Boulder actually could end up tied dead last overall with the Lead winner! If IFSC would have used the old multiplication system they have instead been…