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Kick Ass 9a by Jules Marchaland

Kick Ass 9a by Jules Marchaland

Jules Marchaland has done Kick Ass (9a) in Gorges du Loup. Two weeks ago, the 20-year-old did his first 9a.

"Kick Ass is a very bouldery route with just 22 moves on a 70/75° wall! There is a 5-meter approach around 8a, with a small boulder. Then you have nine very hard moves with pinches and small crimps, finishing with a big jump. The route took me just two sessions (5 tries) but I also tried it 2/3 years ago! On the first try of my second session, I fell at the last movement, which was totally unexpected. After that, I knew that I could succeed quickly and I did on the fourth try of the session." (c) Matthieu Marin

What is next?
Kinematix! I fell five moves from the top two days ago.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

In the male Lead ranking of 2018, Sean Bailey was #18 and the highest ranked from the USA. The second highest was #43. In 2019, Sean had advanced to #9 and Jess…

Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

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Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Over the last 12 months, Michaela Kiersch has sent two 8B+ boulders and one 9a route. There might be some unreported ascents out there from other female climber…

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Event Horizon 9b FA by Jonathan Siegrist

Event Horizon 9b FA by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist has done the FA of Event Horizon (9b) in 5G. The 36-year-old did his first 9b in 2018 and this was his fourth. In total, he has now done 64 routes 9a and harder and as a matter of a fact, his last year is his best with ten such graded climbs. (c) Katy Dannenberg

"The direct finish to Nu World (9a+) that I've dreamt about for years! After coming back from Spain I starting working hard on this, training for it, and deciphering the intricate beta in the upper two thirds. I was really unsure if I'd have a good shot before leaving town again but in some of the best shape of my life, with a huge and memorable fight in the second half, I climbed it! Very resistant long boulder problem to start, next is a fins style vertical crux, and finally seven bolts of all-out-pumpy and technical climbing with no good rest to the finish. I used one right knee to clip the second bolt. Without question, for my height, and my methods, this route is one of my absolute hardest. It was a total joy to learn this route and climb it. Grateful!"

What are your summer plans? Now I’m in Ceuse! It’s so amazing to revisit this place. No plans for routes. Just want to try hard and enjoy.

The Left Hand of Darkness 8A+ by Michaela Kiersch

The Left Hand of Darkness 8A+ by Michaela Kiersch

Michaela Kiersch, who the last two weeks has done three boulders 8B or 8B+, reports on Insta that she has done The left hand of darkness (8A+) in Magic Wood. (c) Stefan Kuerzi

Grossman gets 3rd consecutive gold and Ogata wins in SLC

Grossman gets 3rd consecutive gold and Ogata wins in SLC

Natalia Grossman from the USA was the female topping all four boulders in the Boulder World Cup in Salt Lake City. This was the third consecutive gold for the 20-year-old who started the season by being #2 after Janja Garnbret in Meiringen. During the last eight Boulder WCs, she has been Top-2 including winning the World Championship last year.

"I had no idea what to expect coming into this weekend, I wanted to make another back-to-back happen, but I wasn’t sure," she commented to IFSC. "There were so many points I wanted to give up in this round, I thought it was over after the first boulder, and it was hard to stay positive, but I made it.” Complete female results. (c) Daniel Gajda/IFSC

Among the male, both Yoshiyuki Ogata from Japan and Anze Peharc from Slovenia did all four boulders in five attempts with Ogata winning by countback, using one less try doing all four boulders in the semi. Ogata has made the podium in all four events in 2022. Japan continues their superiority and had three males Top-5 and seven among Top-21. Complete male results

1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 - Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 44 (5)
2. Miho Nonaka JPN 34 (5) - Anze Peharc SLO 44 (5)
3. Brooke Raboutou USA 34 (6) - Kokoro Fujii JPN 44 (9)
4. Futaba Ito JPN 34 (9) - Jongwon Chon KOR 34 (5)
5. Chaehyun Seo KOR 24 (2) - Rei Kawamata JPN 34
6. Ayala Kerem ISR 24 (3) - Ross Fulkerson USA 23

Hyper Finale 9a+ by Dylan Chuat

Hyper Finale 9a+ by Dylan Chuat

Dylan Chuat has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Hyper Finale (9a+) in Rawyl from 2016. Previously the 21-year-old has done nine 9a's including Super Finale. Dylan needed five sessions to do Super Finale and then two more to send his first 9a+.

"You climb all the hard parts of Super Finale 9a and then exit to the right through two hard cruxes. First, some crimps which end with a risk-taking dyno into a jug. After that, you have another big boulder crux, on super small holds which some climbers have said is like an 8B boulder! I found a significantly different method but it is still no less than an 8A+ boulder." (c) Rémi Degenne

New Base Line 8B+ by Michaela Kiersch

New Base Line 8B+ by Michaela Kiersch

Michaela Kiersch reports on Insta that she has done her first 8B+, New Base Line in Magic Woods, in just four sessions. During the last month she has previously sent one 8c+, graduated as a Doctor in hand therapy, been on Petzl Roc trip for two weeks and sent two 8B's. (c) Nina Williams

How can you explain peaking in your climbing right now?
I’ve always had a lot of support for my climbing. Community, friends, and family have been the foundation of my climbing for years. I climb my best when I am happy, and I feel that I’m at a time in my life where everything has fallen into place. Finishing graduate school is one of my greatest accomplishments to date. I think it gave me confidence and momentum that has carried into my recent projects.

I haven’t changed much of my training routine other than having a little more time than before. I think it can be intimidating to try hard boulders. Maybe the difference is that now I’m up to the challenge and have been putting time into figuring out my limits within bouldering.

Puccio is back from yet another injury

Puccio is back from yet another injury

Alex Puccio, possibly the best female boulderer during the last 15 years, in spite of several injuries, has during two weeks in Magic Woods sent SteppenWolf 8B, The bizarre Ride 8A+ (2nd try from the start), Left Hand of darkness 8A+, Body Count 8A+ and Bomb is the Explosion 8A (2nd try). (c) Nina Williams

Are you fully recovered from all your injuries including the SC joint injury last year?
Pretty much. It will never be quite the same, as in I have to be careful on certain types of moves with it and if I push it too hard in some weird positions it can be sore in the morning.

I had a right shoulder issue before we left for the UK in mid April so didn’t climb for a few weeks, just did shoulder rehab. I’m not nearly back to my strength yet, but getting better. Building a base again out here. I started climbing V3-V4 a couple of weeks before we left for the UK and then the last week before we left I was able to do a very basic V10 in the gym. This was a MASSIVE improvement since I didn’t think I would be climbing on the trip at all for a while.

So now, even tho it’s been a bit frustrating at times, I’m climbing and trying to stay happy while regaining strength, power and fitness. :) Since I have already done a lot of stuff in Magic Wood I have been trying to find climbs that I can potentially do at my current fitness level. A little hard, but I have done some nice climbs. :)

How was this tick list possible not fully recovered?
I don’t know. I still feel pretty weak for myself. I think it will take a few more months to get back where I want to be. These shoulder issues started last late summer with my SC joint injury where I couldn’t lift my left arm more than 90 degrees for over 2 months. So I didn’t climb or hang board or anything for over 2.5 months. Then I started extremely easy sport climbing and then only sport climbed really till December. Then At beginning of February when to Red Rocks where I climbed quite well despite overcoming my injury and then on the trip I hurt my right shoulder from overcompensating and trying to climb hard. But from all of this, I have learned to listen to my body and the importance of taking care of it!! Lol!

Blindgänger 9a by David Firnenburg

David Firnenburg, who previously has done 20 routes graded 9a or 9a+, has done Blindgänger (9a) in Unterwald. "Nice route on crimps, slopers and pockets! FA by Dimitri Vogt in 2021. Located on the left side of the crag. First through the small roof and then resistant climbing straight up. Rather felt soft for the grade (8c+/9a?) but time will tell. Good day with Sam Ometz. Unterwald is a good alternative to Gimmelwald in the region of Berner Oberland!"

How many sessions did it take?
It took me three sessions. I was already close to sending it on my 2nd session but I kept falling on a tricky sequence in the upper part of the route. It’s nice to see that there is still a lot of potential for new hard routes here in Switzerland 😊