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The Abbatoir 8A+ (B) by Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb has done The Abattoir (8A+) in Yosemite (CA). "Shouts to Keen for the last minute beta change to end the epic. Left hand to the lip then right to jug...nails snails! April 24 what a day."

In total, the 24-year-old has done 34 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ and she is #1 in the ranking game like she has been for almost a year now. Interesting is that all her four 8B+', she has done during the last 12 months and the last one, she did in just two sessions.

Seta Ibérica 9a+ by Jonathan Flor

Seta Ibérica 9a+ by Jonathan Flor

Jonathan Flor reports on Insta that he has repeated Jorge Diaz-Rullo's Seta Ibérica 9a+ in Cuenca. "While I'm still trying (Following the leader) my main project here, I was able to make one of the best combinations of this wall." (c) Japh Imagenes

The 25-year-old Spaniard has done over 60 routes 8c+/9a and harder, including three 9b's, and actually almost all of them since 2019.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Advertorial: For the SS2022 collection, La Sportiva releases the new version of the Katana Laces shoe, which enriches the climbing category and is presented as …

Lena Müller "ecopoints" 350 km on a bike to climb two dream cracks

Last year, we made an interview with Lena Müller and the ecological crises. She is currently doing a PhD at the University of Innsbruck about the effects of climate change on mountain ecosystems. In the documentary video she takes her bike 350 km to climb two dream cracks.

Janja trains almost only on a spraywall

"I do 95 % of the training on the wall. I am not doing any finger boarding. I am not doing any fitness. I am training six times a week for four hours on the spray wall and that is it. I kept repeating to myself, "if I am not having fun, then I will not win". It is as simple as that." Janja also thin…

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Advertorial: Another Play in Paradise is a spicy route, one of 129 that traverse the south-facing slopes of the Lienz Dolomites in 5 sectors ranging in difficul…

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Dreamtime 8B+/C by Hans Radetzki

Dreamtime 8B+/C by Hans Radetzki

Hans Radetzki, climbing photographer and a very much under the radar 9a climber, has done Dreamtime 8B+/C in Cresciano and there is an Insta video. (c) StefanKuerzi.com

"It’s just awesome to realise what’s doable with a lot of obsession :) I never really saw myself as a boulderer but Dreamtime got me super psyched somehow. I’m just very grateful about the process and the learning opportunities you get with trying something that’s very hard for you personally. Failure and frustration are some of the best teachers to learn how to handle yourself I guess :)"

8A and 8A+ by Eva Hammelmüller

8A and 8A+ by Eva Hammelmüller

Eva Hammelmüller, who last year did her first 8c+/9a, has done The Antwoord (8A+) and Clockwork Orange (8A)
Zillergrund Wald. (c) Felix Mast

"I tried "Clockwork Orange" two years ago but was not able to climb it, so I was really psyched to finish off this boulder. Although I didn’t really remember the moves, I could climb it pretty quickly, so I had plenty of time to try something else. After climbing some easier boulders, we decided to try „Antwoord“. At first, we struggled a lot with the first move and it rained quite a lot, so the top out was completely wet. Yet, after drying the top out and finding a heel for the first move, I could do it in my first send go!"

The End 8c+ by Pepa Šindel (14)

The End 8c+ by Pepa Šindel (14)

Pepa Šindel from the Czech Republic has done the first repeat of The end 8c+ in Medveja. The power endurance challenge was bolted by Andrea Polo and Domen Škofic did the FA. Last year, the 14-year-old did an 8c in four different countries; Slovenia, Slovakia, Spain and Germany. His father Petr comments.

"All members of our family climb and climbing is a our lifestyle, motivation and love for us. Pepa trains on the home bouldering wall in the barn and goes to the rocks as often as possible. Ideally every weekend plus the whole school holiday. Although he does not specifically prepare extra, he trains a lot. At least 3 to 4 times a week, power bouldering - old school wall, ideal conditions :-)."

Six 8C's and two 9a's in four weeks by Will Bosi

Six 8C's and two 9a's in four weeks by Will Bosi

William Bosi has made a trip to Moravský kras where he the first three weeks did six 8C's and Kostěj nesmrtelný 9a (after a broken hold). Later he was #2 after Adam Ondra in the Czech Nationals and did, Perla východu (9a). "Incredible route and definitely the king line of the crag had a proper battle to get this one done! Even falling on the last move... grade wise it feels far more like 9a+ which is crazy considering Adam climbed this when he was 14!! Time will tell I guess." (c) Band of birds

Moravský Kras is a predominantly limestone area north of Brno which is the home of Adam Ondra, who acted as a guide to Will on parts of this trip. The area is characterised by technical and challenging climbing on often polished limestone and rarely sees visits from the elite climbing circuit despite multiple hard boulders and routes established by the likes of Ondra and Martin Stranik.

“It has been an amazing experience to not only explore the Moravsky Kras area but be welcomed by the local climbing community. Ahead of the trip, I trained probably harder than I ever have in preparation for a climbing trip and so was really happy that I was able to tick so many classics of the area. I am psyched to come back again soon to continue exploring the area and training with the locals!”

La Ramirole MP 8b by Katherine Choong

La Ramirole MP 8b by Katherine Choong

Choong Katherine, who last year finished IFSC comps after 16 years on the circuit, has done La Ramirole MP (8b) in Verdon. Previously the 30-year-old has done two 9a's and last year she did the MP, 6.4 sekunden 8b (+), meaning her route track record is one of the most impressive out there. (c) Julia Cassou

"I climbed all the pitches of the multi-pitch route La Ramirole in a perfect no fall ascent! But it wasn't a piece of cake! Each pitch was a long battle of endurance! I had been dreaming of climbing this route since I saw a picture of Nina Caprez many years ago. But it took me a while before I felt ready to tackle this impressive overhanging wall. Jim my partner was also close to sending the route, falling at the top of the 8b! Sharing this adventure with him, sharing the pressure, the fatigue, the difficulties, the disappointment when he fell but also the excitement, the mutual support and the moments of joy after each successful pitch made this climb an incredible experience!

This route is clearly in my style: there are no extreme moves, but it's a sequence of difficult moves on a very overhanging wall. So less difficult than 6.4 Sekunden which was very technical and bouldery. But it's clearly the second hardest multi-pitch route I've done. When I arrived to Verdon I had a lot of doubts about my ability to do it, my form is not the best right now. The first few days I couldn't do more than a few moves in a row and I ended the day completely exhausted. But my body gradually adapted to this environment and then my head, seeing that the end of the trip was approaching, took over to send this monster of endurance. I clearly didn't have the margin to be able to fall on the pitches and try them again, I absolutely had to climb them all without falling in order to be able to do them all on the same day. So it was a big mental battle!"

Pain makes me stronger, every day! 8c (+) flash by Moritz Winkler

Pain makes me stronger, every day! 8c (+) flash by Moritz Winkler

Moritz Winkler has flashed Pain makes me stronger, every day! 8c (+) in Frankenjura. The 26-year-old was pushing hard on rock and in comps as a teenager and had previously only done one 8c+.

"Short route, short story. On the fourth climbing day in a row, I wanted to support my girlfriend in her project, when an old friend from youth competitions showed up between the trees in the forest of Frankenjura, Hans Radetzki. He told me about a small wall I had never heard about with bouldery moves and a kneebar. My endurance level was basically at zero because I was bouldering in Spain in recent weeks. Exactly my business I thought since routes with kneebars are my favourites. I just wanted to have a look, but then somehow I took my harness, chalk and shoes. Hans had a good try, but unfortunately, he did not make it. He told me that he would have a 10 minutes rest before the next attempt and this was my chance to go for it, ... Thirty seconds later, I clipped the anchor.

Not expecting to climb or even try anything that difficult, I was really unprepared. I had forgotten to take my liquid chalk (my usual routine) and had not taped my finger with the pulley I damaged a year ago. Nevertheless, I felt confident and fortunately, I was able to borrow Hans’ kneepad. All in all, I spent a maximum of 10 minutes at the crack which gave my girlfriend just a short break before she was able to go back to her project again. ;-) In summary, it was a lucky shot for me, which is also really a good description of the attempt. Perfect moves which were completely my style and an important intuitively positioned foothold at the right time. With this foothold, Hans was also able to climb the route after a few more tries."


How has your climbing life been over the last few years?
After climbing many competitions and finally starting in my first lead WC, I spend too much time on Hangboarsd and plastic. I had enough of training and lead climbing for a long time and I just went on rocks, mostly fun bouldering and I also started really enjoying cleaning rocks and doing FAs. That's something good you can be proud of and maybe last a bit longer for posterity. This is also the reason, why I joined the DAV Felskader bw (DAV Rockteam, for bolting and doing "unnormal" stuff at the rocks). Sadly I had super bad Injuries to my foot. Then I had finger problems since last year. After this long time of getting a week, I felt a change in my body and I wanted to get a bit stronger and maybe climb some lead routes with my girlfriend again. So I sadly couldn't train for a long time and never really tried super hard in the past years...

Battle of Hearts 9a FA by Luca Bana

Battle of Hearts 9a FA by Luca Bana

Luca Bana has done the FA of Battle of Hearts (9a) in Paline. "It is basically a different end of "Abusive Love", a 9a link-up I freed in 2018 at Paline's crag. This 'new' one adds some physical moves which make the things a bit more tiring. After the send of "Stone War" 8c+/9a last week, I decided to give some tries to this connection and the process for the send turned out to be super fast, as I already climbed several times all the parts of this portion of rock for the other existing routes: just two sessions were enough to grab the first ascent of this pure stamina beast, where fatigue tolerance is crucial for success: probably one of the biggest challenge against the pump of the whole area!"