Eva Hammelmüller has done Weißer Rausch (8c) in Ötztal. "This 8c was very technical, with a hard and tricky boulder at the beginning and a pumpy ending without any proper rest. Definitely one of the best lines I have climbed recently!"
What is next?
Turkey for 10 days🥳 onsights or looking for some hard projects?🤔!!!🤩🤩
TOP IMAGES OF THE WEEK
Yannick Flohé has flashed Wrestling with an alligator (8B) and done Bügeleisen (8B+) in Maltatal, video on his Insta.
"I spent two days in Maltatal on my first day I started with Power of goodbye 8B with a nice dyno from two crimps to a jug. After that, I tried Bügeleisen. After a really good flash attempt, falling at the last crimp before the big move to the edge, I climbed it in four more tries. On my sent go I got two splits on my fingertips so I couldn’t try the sit anymore. On my second day, I worked on Hide and Seek but dropped the last hold two times and couldn’t finish it. I was quite frustrated and already tired but Chris Schweiger told me to try Wrestling with an Alligator which he did the day before. I just decided to give it a try and somehow just flashed it. I think it’s not the hardest 8B and I had a good Beta 😅".
So did you actually have taped fingers while flashing the 8B?
Yes, two fingertips taped with superglue and tape 😅. And I put some climb skin into the cut that helped.
Natalia Grossman has flashed Prince of Thieves (8A) and done Beyond Life sit (8A+) in Joe's Valley (UT).
In the picture, (c) Brennan Robinson, she does Big Joe Left (8A) and in total has made seven boulders 7C+ to 8A+ during just two separate weekend sessions.
In 2021, the 20-year-old did nine World Cups in Lead and Bouldering and just once she missed the podium. The season then finished with the World Championship where she was #2 in Lead and #1 in Boulder. This can be compared with 2019, when Natalia was on an average #14 in the Boulder WC's and in her only Lead WC, she was #53.
Martin Bergant, #9 in the Kranj WC in 2021, has done Xaxid hostel (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec.
"For sure one of the best lines in Mišja peč. I tried it twice last year and failed to do all the moves. Last week I went back and fell only twice on my second try. I decided to come back in the morning when the conditions are better and clipped the chain on my 5th try overall. Now I still have some time to open new projects before I start preparing for the new competition season."
Christof Rauch has done Stil vor Talent (8C) in Magic Wood. In total, the 27-year-old has now done twelve 8C's and more than 800 boulders 8A and harder.
How was the process taking it down?
I knew most of the moves from La Grosse Toulouse, so I had a short session where I checked the crux it and found some good beta for myself. Then I had another small session where I did the stand, the next session I failed at the last crux and the session after I did it. Props to Giani (Clement) for this cool addition to one of my favourite blocs! Just in time before the top out got wet. Special thanks to my girl Julia for the support.
Alex Ventajas has done his first 9a+, Pure Dreaming plus (9a+) in Arco. (c) Diego Borello
"After doing “Underground” and “Pure dreaming,” I thought about trying the connection between the two lines, but I preferred to consolidate the grade doing few more routes around 8c+ and 9a before trying a 9a+. This lasts weeks I felt en real good shape and I went to Pueblo in Arco to start climbing again on the routes, remembering the moves and trying the part that connects the two. Step by step, without rush and keeping climbing others “short-term project”.
After doing “Reini’s Vibes” quite quickly I thought: why not start give real tries to my biggest project from the start? After seven attempt (four days) In total, I managed to get to the top of the route, doing my first 9a+. Of course I already knew most of the moves, so the process was quite short, but this line needs very focused mind and great endurance. I loved to climb it and I think it’s a good way to debut in the grade." More info on his Insta.
Killian Chabrier has done Dreamtime 8B+ (C) in Cresciano, Insta video. "I just needed two sessions to do Dreamtime the first mythical “8C” Boulder, maybe one of the best Boulder I’ve tried. Really happy to do it despite a bit of pressure caused by the bad weather. For the grade, I saw that répétitors are hesitating between 8b+ and 8c, for me, it is more like an 8b+ hard. Now I’m hoping for good weather to do The Story of Two World where I did all moves very quickly."
Dreamtime was put up by Fred Nicole as the first 8C in the world. Later it was downgraded but due to a broken hold back to 8C again. Then a new sequence was found and 8B+ suggestion come along. In practice, this means that Dreamtime should not be considered the first 8C in the world, which Chabrier's quick ascent and thought confirms.
Allison Vest has done her third 8B, Blackout in Joes Valley, after just three sessions. The last week she has also sent Black #1 8A+ as well as two 8A's.
"I had a great time trying Blackout. It suits me and my love of teeny crimps and big moves really well. Each session I went there, someone I was with sent it so I was really motivated and inspired to put it together myself. I had to get creative and really convince myself I wanted to grab the tiny holds, but, stoked I made it work. I was there with (c) Alex Johnson that day who is also super close… her send is up next!"
How did you get into and out off that amazing position in the picture?
You end up with your right hand on the edge just before and rose move under to that big side pull. Then, match it to unwind!
How can you explain being in your best shape ever?
I’ve had a few overlapping leg injuries for the past several months so I’ve been doing a lot of work on lock-offs (my weakness) and hangboarding (my strength). As a result, my fingers feel the strongest they ever have and I can use them more efficiently because of the lock off training. Also, it has been a long time since I’ve felt like I’ve been able to climb and try as hard as I can because of minor tweaks and injuries so I’m super motivated right now. And, just grateful to be outside. That mental space has allowed me to clean up past boulders that I’ve left undone as well as some surprise sends on new ones.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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