27crags reporta que Ashima Shiraishi mandou a primeira repetição do boulder aberto por Paul Robinson, The Steady Plums direct, V13 em Topside. Ashima já tinha mandado a primeira ascensão feminina do Crown of Aragorn, V13 estabelecido em Hueco Tanks. Poucas mulheres já mandaram V13, e nenhuma delas tão rápido quanto Ashima. Em uma entrevista no NY Times (em inglês), Ashima diz que treina 5-7 vezes por semana, entre 25 - 35 horas no total, incluindo deslocamento. (c) Chasing winter
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27crags reports that Ashima Shiraishi has done the first repeat of Paul Robinson's The Steady Plums direct, 8B in Topside. Previously Ashima has done the first female ascent of the very well confirmed Crown of Aragorn, 8B in Hueco Tanks. Only a handfull female have done multiple 8B's and nobody as fast as the 11 year old. In the interview with NY Times Ashima says she trains 5-7 times, spending 25 - 35 h, a week including transport. (c) Chasing winter
93: Tina Hohnsen Hafsaas NOR - Domen Škofic SLO 95: Jessica Pilz AUT - Bernhard Röck AUT 97: Evgeniya Lapshina RUS - Ruben Firnenburg GER Complete results More than 50 % of the finalists, including the winners in the 97 category, were ranked based on who climbed fastest even if they had different results in the qually. It seems most coaches and also infact some judges do not like this new rule.
BJ Tilden has opend Moonshine, 9a in Wild Iris. BJ has previously done three 8c+' out of which two FAs. "End of an era. Bolted this route ten years ago. Tried so many times, been so close so many times, and it finally came together. No real rhyme or reason. Just persistence. AMAZING ROUTE!!
Christof Rauch has done Charity Bouldern, 8B in Silvretta. "Finally. After falling on the traverse cause of wet holds. Sooo happy. Amazing problem. Next time Skiroute Project. IMO 8A+-8B. Here is a nice video from last week when he did Craceland, 8b in Zillertal. In the Combined Junior Game, he is #7.
Team ABC climber and 2-years-reigning Girls D US Sport National Champion Stella Noble has just climbed her first outdoors 7c+ with Sonic Youth in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado. Less than a year ago at the age of 9 Stella became the youngest person to climb The Diamond on Long's Peak Colorado, taking the record previously held by Tommy Caldwell who first climbed The Diamond at age 12. Photo and video @Team ABC Blog
Mar Álvarez has done her two first 8b+, Tripa de Conejo and Ixeia (see picture) in Rodellar. Check her nice Gallery. If you're able to read in Spanish or want to use Google translator, here is the interview we had with her right after sending the first of those two routes a few days ago.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
In bouldering, you do not get any credit for being close to Top out, i.e. match the Top in control. This can create situations that many do not find fair. A climber barely getting the zone once, could score better than another one that several times climb higher and but falls every time trying to ma…
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