Leo Bøe completes Estado Critico (9a)

Leo Bøe, who did three 8c+'s last month in Oliana, has sent Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. (c) Esteban Lahoz

"In 2019 I saw my friend, Lucas Marques, climb Estado Critico as his first 9a. He motivated me to try the moves, but at that time they felt hard and impossible to link. I’ve wanted to revisit the route through the years to check in on my progress and now I finally had the chance. This time, the moves felt far within reach and already on day two I was falling at the end. The final move was the redpoint crux for me and I fell there in the following sessions. The ending is super techy and you’re going from thumb press to thumb press while sitting on a heel. It was incredibly rewarding to finally latch the final pocket/jug and send the route that gave me so much trouble five years ago! Perhaps soft for the grade, but harder than all the 8c+’s I’ve done."

How long have you stayed in the area and what is next on your agenda?
Next, I will sample the moves in La Rambla. My dream for this year is to find a 9a+ project that gets me psyched to fight hard. I have been here for two months and I’ll be staying 2-3 months longer in Spain! Let’s see what comes next!

Manon Hily does L'ideal Chimerique (8c+) and flashes an 8b

Manon HILY has redpointed L'idéal chimérique (8c+) and flashed La barre à un million d'année (8b) in St Léger. In total, she has now done 15 routes 8c or 8c+, out of which four this winter.

I spent five days in the end on L'ideal. This is a long route with a lot of « not natural » holds but very cool to train because there are two parts. In the first part, all the moves are powerful and long on good holds. You have to be fast and after that, you have a good rest with a small jug. Then you have a pumpy section before the crux with eight moves and then there is a very hard shoulder move. I took a little crimp to be closer and cross instead of doing the shoulder movement. I think this is the perfect beta for small people. You can fall so many times to the top!”

The french climber has been an active IFSC competition climber since 2009, winning nine youth medals. In 2022, she earned her first senior podium with a bronze at the European Lead Championship. Last year, the 29-year-old was #3 in the Briancon World Cup and now her goal is to qualify for the Olympics and later the European Championship. After this, her focus will be back on outdoor climbing.

Back in 2022, Theo Blass sent Trip tik tonik (9a) and became the youngest climber to have done a 9a.

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Alizee Dufraisse completes Second life (8A+)

Alizee Dufraisse has done Second life (8A+) in Chironico. The 36-year-old is a former competition climber who has sent three 9a's and eight boulders 8B and beyond. In the Lead World Cup, her best result was a podium in 2009. Currently, she is writing her PhD thesis in Sociology regarding changes in professional climbing. (c) Marine Thevenet

Can you tell us more about Second Life?
After Kingda Ka (8B) in October I was very motivated and tried From dirt grows the flower left (8B+) a little but I kind of tweaked my shoulder so [I] had to find a boulder that didn’t bother me. I decided then to try The Crack Line (8B) which I think is a super line as well. It is hard!!! I couldn't send but I made good tries. At the same time, I wanted to have a "side project", especially with the idea of an endurance boulder as I'm returning to routes soon. So I started trying Second Life. It was cool, as I also learned about my abilities to go climbing alone, make it safe, and find motivation and confidence.

I have always been bouldering with someone because I didn't imagine I could do it alone and that it would feel different but as good in a way. So it's weird, how I could have put myself some limits in my climbing practice.

Jenny Buckley makes quick work of Forever More Sit (8A+)

Jenny Buckley, who did her first 8A at age 13, has sent Forever More sit start (8A+) in Brione. In 2023, the 16-year-old did ten IFSC Youth Comps and her worst result was #8.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
All of my friends that I usually go rock climbing with were busy so I took two crashpads with me hopped on a bus and went to Brione alone. I warmed up quickly and remembered Forever More was quite a short boulder and relatively safe with only two pads. So I went straight to it and sent it in about ten minutes. It suited my style and overall I have to say it's a beautiful boulder.

What is your climbing background?
I was born in Slovenia but moved to Ticino 5/6 years ago and am a big fan of rock climbing but don't go outdoors often since training is currently the main focus. I'm mostly a competition climber so this off-season I have been practically only training hard indoors. Yesterday I had a day where I could go for a day to have fun and just enjoy the rock.

Noé Looser ticks Frank's wild years 8A (+)

Noé Looser, Lead European Youth Champion in September, has done Frank's wild years 8A (+) in Cresciano. The 17-year-old sent her first 8c at age 13. ”Frank's was a really cool project which I had a lot of fun with. I tried Frank's this year three or four days and last year once. I think the first three moves are the hardest. For the hook I needed a lot of body tension.”

Babsi Zangerl does Solitary Souls direct exit (8c)

Barbara Zangerl has sent Solitary Souls direct exit (8c) in Arco after trying it a dozen times. The Austrian has the most impressive female multi-discipline ticklist in the world. Last year, she sent the trad line Meltdown (8c+) and she has done five bolted routes graded 8c+/9a or 9a. Her big wall resume is elite and she completed boulders to 8B until she incurred problems with her back.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had a great time in Arco. Solitary Souls (8c+) is a route from Alfredo Webber and Adam [Ondra] did the onsight of that pumpy steep line. I just did the direct exit which is easier and a bit shorter. I would be psyched to get on the main line which is longer and adds another pumpy crux to the line.

What is your next plan?
In general, my plan in winter is to train mostly in the gym and I work a bit more in the hospital at this time of the year.

How does a normal training week look?
I train 5 times a week, mostly freestyle… lots of time in the bouldering gym.

Any big travel plans for 2024?
In summer we would be psyched to go on an expedition to Pakistan or India…. We are still planning… not sure yet… and in fall back to Yosemite.

Babsi has previously commented on how it is possible to focus on so many disciplines at the same time?
"For me personally this is the best way to stay motivated all the time. I can‘t really imagine focusing just on one style all the time. Maybe I would be stronger then but it would be less fun, I guess. I love all the different styles of climbing. For me, it is not all about climbing hard. I love the mental challenge in trad climbing and the adventures in big wall climbing. Climbing an easier graded route which is hard to protect can be a harder challenge compared to climbing a hard-graded sport climbing route. So it is all relative. I just really like the learning process of trying out something new."

David Bermudez Carbonell, 14, ticks Escalatamasters 9a (8c+)

David Bermudez Carbonell, who did 13 routes 8c or 8c+ in 2023, has sent Esclatamasters (9a) in Perles & Canelles. (c) Sputnik Climbing

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This week I am with my parents on holiday. The first day we went to Oliana and I could do Fish eye 8c on my second go. The next days I tried Esclatamasters and I progressed really fast on the route and finally on my 6th attempt in total I could send it. Today I had to make a strategy because it was very hot and this route has a slab with very small holds that require a cold temperature. Anyway, the route is amazing and combines an overhanging and physical part with a very technical slab. I am very happy!! Now, I will enjoy the rest of the days trying to climb onsight.


When David did his first 8c+, last spring, we asked his mother Isabel what a normal climbing week looks like. “David normally trains in a climbing wall 3 times a week. He loves to do infinite movement traverses, although he trains in a self-taught way. The climbing wall where we train has nothing to do with the current climbing walls, it is a climbing wall set up by a group of climbers with density walls very focused on the transfer to the rock. Nobody tells David what he has to do and he decides what he will do each day. Without a trainer, nutritionists or psychologists... [This has changed as he since couple of months he is part of Sputnikclimbing.]

He is also passionate about watching videos of climbers of all times and loves to climb everywhere in the house (including the living room table 😂). His talent, motivation and passion for climbing make him achieve the accomplishments he is making with his small stature and young age (13 years old). Best of all, he always enjoys the process.

David climbs every weekend and is a climber who always gives his all, he climbs at the top of his game on every pitch. He has a lot of endurance and self-confidence. So as soon as he finds the right method to solve the hardest pitches on the routes, he never fails.

He loves to onsight climb, and although we usually climb on weekends regularly in Cuenca, he usually tries some onsight climbing (below his grade) before trying his project. Also when we go on a climbing trip on holidays, he always climbs onsight.”