Gio Placci has done The New Abnormal (8B+) and Captain Nemo (8C) in Valle Bavona. “Such a gem! Shout out to my blood bro Pietro Vidi for the FA. Captain Nemo is the sit start to Finding Nemo (8A+). ”

During the last four months the Italian has done eight boulder problems 8B+ to 8C, in spite having had a finger injury for the first nine months of 2023. In 2022, he did three 9a+’s and was #21 in the Lead WC in Edinburgh.

Can you tell us more about Nemo and New Abnormal?
The breakdown is about 8B+ soft into knee bar rest into the stand that is 8A+. It is for sure one of the best hard boulders I have ever tried. Five small sessions [for Nemo] and three for Abnormal. I used a different beta compared to Jimmy’s beta , that’s why I think 8B+ is a right grade.

What are you looking to do next?
It is time to switch to my real discipline that’s lead! World Cup final and climb hard routes but I still don’t know which ones.

Martina Demmel has done Coma Sant Pere (8c+) in Margalef. ”Still in disbelief! How I missed the feeling of dominating almost all the 45 meters... keeping my focus after passing my previous highpoint was another crux! 6 tries & more on Insta soon:)” (c) Jordi Rullo

The next day she moved to Siurana and completed 2 x 30 (8c). ”Having a 100% humidity on those always soaked holds was far from ideal but since Vera started the send-train again, I had to jump on as well;) had it in my mind for 4 years when I touched the holds the first time! 9 tries in total.

How long are you staying in Spain and when will you start preparing for the World Cup?
I'm gonna stay in Margalef until the end of February because then it's time to go back home for the selection comp for the World cups. This trip was already planned with the national team coaches since last summer and it was supposed to be a little change in between of longer training periods and since I'm only focusing on Lead, there's still some time until the season properly starts! And I'm also doing a few off-the-wall exercises here.

Marie Dorsaz has done Master of Pogs 8A in La Balmaz. The 39-year-old started climbing at age 22 and sent her first 8A, out of seven, at 34 and first 8A+ two years later.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The boulder was opened as an 8B by Fred Nicole in 1996, but since then, several holds have broken, making the line easier. I tried this line a few years ago but I wasn’t strong enough for this powerful boulder. Two weeks ago, I decided to try it again, thinking that, maybe, I got stronger over the years. And, to my surprise, I got all the moves quickly in the first session, and sent it a few days later. I’m happy to see that at nearly 40 years old (I’ll be 40 in March), I can still make progress.

What does a typical climbing week look like for you?
My partner Theo and I have our own moonboard at home, so our training is mainly done using this tool. And when I’m not working, I climb outside whenever I can, but also in the gym for fun.

What is coming up next?
Of course I’d like to progress further and why not do an 8B boulder. I’ve already tried Tronic summer (8B) in Valais, where I live, and it suits me pretty well, so I’m going to try it again this summer. Maybe it’ll take me a few years to send it and I’ll do my first 8B boulder when I’m 45, who knows? :)

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done the second ascent of James Pearson’s masterpiece Bon Voyage (9a) trad in Annot, after trying it for three days. (c) Petr Chodura

”It is hands down one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and it is a true miracle that there are just enough holds to make it climbable and enough gear to make runout, but safe.”

Pearson did not suggest a grade but Ondra says he thinks it could be a solid 9a if bolted and placing gear makes it a little bit more difficult. In other words, Bon Voyage might be the hardest trad climb in the world. Noteworthy is also that Ondra has made the hardest grade in all disciplines and styles except for his 8C+ boulder; 9c, 9a+ flash, 9a onsight, 8B+ flash, 9a MP and 9a trad.