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9a FA again by Christian Bindhammer (36)

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9a FA again by Christian Bindhammer (36)

Christian Bindhammer, who has been a Lead World Cup finalist some 30 times, has made yet another 9a FA, Iron Dome, 9a in Allgäu. He did his first by Action in 2003 and since than he has done one 9a more or less every year. Because of the very sharp and edgy style including one mono you can't do more than 3 tries a day and it's horrible if it's to warm. So to find the right conditions there is a challenge and then you'll need to do it fast ;-)" Yesterday he started a new harder project at the crag that he hopes to do next spring. More pics by Maxi Klaus on FB

8a+ OS by Martina Cufar Potard

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8a+ OS by Martina Cufar Potard

Martina Cufar Potard has onsighted Les fabulosos cadilacs, 8a+ in Piedra Parada which means she has been in Argentina for the Petzl Roc Trip. In 2001, Martina was the Lead World Champion and since than Slovenia, with 2 million inhabitants, has been one of the most successfull competition nations in the world. (c) Said Belhaj

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

In the male Lead ranking of 2018, Sean Bailey was #18 and the highest ranked from the USA. The second highest was #43. In 2019, Sean had advanced to #9 and Jess…

Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

In the Villar Speed qualification, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia set two World Records. In his first run, he did 5.09 and then 5.04 in his second race, video. Runner-up was Long Cao from China with 5.22. Besides the several World Records in 2022, the level has been pushed significantly and 5.58 was…

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Over the last 12 months, Michaela Kiersch has sent two 8B+ boulders and one 9a route. There might be some unreported ascents out there from other female climber…

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Increased Access problems in Osp/Misja Pec

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Increased Access problems in Osp/Misja Pec

Some locals living have started a campaign in order to close the climbing in Osp/Misja Pec. The parking and the free camping problems have increased over the years and now the locals are feed up with cars parking on their vineyards, making the dishes in grave yards etc. The only place to park is in the Osp Campsite, 3 Euro per day. Please respect this and share the news or it just might be that the #14 most popular climbing area in the world will be closed. (c) Maciej Ostrowski

8c+ flash and 9a RP by Alexander Megos (19)

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8c+ flash and 9a RP by Alexander Megos (19)

Kletterszene reports about an extreme tick list for Alexander Megos in Red River Gorge including the flash of the Pure Imagination which recently did get down graded to 8c+. Based on the topo grades, the 19 year old also did another five 8c+, three of them second go, and onsighted three 8b+'s. Kletterzene also says that Alexander did his second 9a by The Fly in Rumney. Alexander has not commented any grades but to 8a, he previously said he does not think he has done 9a yet. Here are some quick comments from Alexander after the North Face Kalymnos festival where he actually proved to be the best climber in the competition. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

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Three 8A's by Katha Saurwein

Katha Saurwein has added another three 8A's to here log-book making it twelve 8A's and harder including three 8A+ the last year. In 2008, she won one Boulder World Cup.

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8c by Conny Matthes

Conny Matthes has done her second 8c, Intercooler in Frankenjura where she also has done six 8A's this year.

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8A by Margo Hayes (14)

Margo Hayes has done her first 8A, Sunshine in Hueco Tanks which was first suggested as an 8B. She did her first 7C+ at the age of 12 years old, and last year she flashed another one. Margo has also done 8b being tied in.