McColl & Stöhr win in Slovenia
1. Sean McColl 3t5 4b9 - Anna Stöhr 3t6 4b5 2. Jan Hojer 2t8 3b9 - Melissa Le Neve 3t6 4b7 3. Dima Sharafutdinov 2t10 3b8 - Shauna Coxsey 2t3 4b4 Complete results This was the fourth straight win for Anna and the first win for Sean. Throughout the whole competition, Jacky Godoffe and his team made very nice problems out of which 25 of 26 problems were done, but even so, very few were done by most. Video of the finals.
Jam Session 8A
by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief
Sport Climbing needs your Olympic vote
Inside The Games has launched a a poll for the 2020 Olympic Games and invites its readers to answer the following question: "Which sport do you think the IOC should vote to include on the Olympic programme for 2020?" After 146 000 votes for the eight candidates 1. Wrestling 39.8 % 2. Squash 30.5 % 3. Karate 24.2 % 6. Sport Climbing 0.5 %
Almost all against chipping!
Based on 1 600 unique votes to, " What do you think about Chipping?", we can see that the result in 2013 is a notch more negative towards chipping compared to an identical poll in 2009. Yes! = Better Climbing: 6 % (6) OK, but very seldom: 8 % (11) I do not know: 2 % (3) No, but cleaning is OK: 56 % (50) NO! Brush is the limit: 27 % (30)
Gui-Gui does Two 8B's in Font
Woods video of Bridge of Ashes 8C
Island.io presents a nice video from Daniel Woods second ascent of Dave Graham's Bridge of Ashes 8C in Elkland.
15th 8c+ onsight by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has onsighted his 15th 8c+, Chambao in Baltzola. "Super guapa, but being flexible, it could be a little easier... 9a was postponed due to terrible humidity...I will be back." The runner up in this 8c+ onsight ranking has done one including Alexander Megos 9a. It should also be noted that Adam, last autumn, onsighted two confirmed 9a's in Red River Gorge giving them a personal grade of 8c+. After he comes back to Spain he is going to Flatanger in Norway so we are talking about a total of at least 50 hours of travelling with a car, until he can start looking for a future 9c project. (c) Alvaro Susena
Boulder WC Slovenia this weekend
The fourth stage of the Boulder World Cup 2013 takes place in Log Dragomer in Slovenia this weekend. The whole event is streamed live. The finals start Sunday 19.00. IFSC video from the last WC in Kitzbühel.
Gozo - The next climbing destination
Stevie Haston, one of the best 50+ climbers in the world, has presented an extensive guide to climbing on the Maltese island - Gozo, calling it the next climbing destination. There are currently some 300 routes on the island spread our on 8 sectors.
by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief
Water World 9a onsight by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra onsighted Water world (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec, last November."Yees, very proud to onsight it. Possibly not the hardest 9a especially with kneepads, but not a very obvious one to onsight. Super happy."
Will Bosi streaming 3rd session on Burden of Dreams 9A
William Bosi has made very good progress on Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams 9A, in his first two sessions. Let's see if he continues trying the new beta he found. Here is the live-streaming link.
Jana Švecová does all moves on Terranova (8C+) in just two sessions
William Bosi just recently said that he felt that Adam Ondra's Terranova (8C+) was as hard as Burden of Dreams 9A. Now, Jana Švecová (Vincourková) has dropped a video where she does all moves on Terranova in just two sessions, by coming up with new beta.
Schubert tries Bouin's DNA (9c)
Jakob, you recently took a short trip to what is likely to be the world’s second-ever 9c route. How much could you take away from DNA, the route freed by Seb Bouin in the Verdon Gorge in the south of France? Last November I went for a very short trip to Verdon. I took the 10 hour drive just because…
Bosi is live-streaming BoD 9A again
William Bosi is up in Finland live-streaming his second session on Burden of Dreams 9A. The temperature is -3, icicles are visible, and there is a clear blue sky and he is making good progress. Will says that the first individual move might be 8B but skipping that, doing kind of a stand start, it co…
Matt Segall sends Kryptonite, 9a
Matt Segal, world-class trad and big wall climber, has done Kryptonite (9a) at The Fortress. He first tried it in 2003 and then started working on it last year. Matt took a little time to answer a few questions we had. So basically, you came back 19 years later and started to project Kryptonite as …
Good progress for Will Bosi on Burden of Dreams 9A
William Bosi has been doing an Insta livestreaming this morning trying Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams 9A in Finland. When he did his flash attempt he had some 50 viewers but in the end, there were 1 500 watching his first working session. As a great surprise for him, he did the first crux move…