Two 8B's and two 8c+'s by Alfons Dornauer (19)

Alfons Dornauer is in great shape having, the last week, done two 8B boulders in Zillertal and yesterday he did Reality Check 8c+ in Schleier Wasserfall. In the combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #8. Today he added The Source 8c+ in Zillertal to his impressive Tick list. "3rd go this year, had to brush the route at first, soo dirty!!! Conditions were perfect! One of the most stunning lines in the valley! MASTERPIECE!!!


by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

Solveig Korherr - excelling at sport climbing and bouldering, and now launching into trad...

Solveig Korherr - excelling at sport climbing and bouldering, and now launching into trad...

Solveig Korherr, who over the last six weeks, has done several 8A boulders and an 8c route, has been on a trad trip to Cadarese, where she sent two 8a's and ons…

Radek Votocek and the stunning Rock Erotic

Radek Votocek did five 8c+ graded routes last year and Rock Erotic (8c+) in Geyik bayiri was his hardest, as it's officially (8c+/9a). Lukáš Černý has put together the video and says, "I had the pleasure to film with Radek during my Christmas trip, and I was able to record some more of his new entr…



Hojer & Wurm take German double

Jan Hojer (6) GER - Juliane Wurm (3) GER Dima Sharafutdinov (5) RUS - Anna Stöhr (1) AUT Kilian Fischhuber (3) AUT - Akiyo Noguchi (6) JPN The fifth Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck was a great show on nice problems. Jan started first as he was sixth in the semifinal and secured the gold even if five climbers remained to try the last boulder. The same thing happened for the result of Dima and Juliane. It can be noted that during 2013, 40 % of the winners have actually started first in the final as his/her semi final results were the worst of all finalist. This relatively good results for the last ranked guys coming into the final, we have seen since 2007 and especially in the four last world championships.


Ondra on a bolting mission to Flatanger

Adam Ondra is on a two week bolting trip to Flatanger where he during two weeks hopes to bolt another ten routes out of five, which are probably in the 9b range. He brought a 150 m static rope and hopes that this will make it possible to bolt from the top using hooks the master the overhang. If I feel in good shape I hope to also make some FAs but the plan is to go back home and train hard and return to Flatanger later this summer. Norway is amazing during the summer and in the cave you can also climb when it rains. I have not been climbing for a week and I am super pshyched to rapel down and start projecting new amazing lines.


No plan - Just climbing: Still most popular

Based on 1 300 unique votes, "How do you climb/train?", we can see that the result is almost identical to a poll in 2009. This is interesting as we during the last few years have seen an increasing number of articles and discussion on 8a on how to train systematically. 09 % I follow a strict programme 41 % A bit of both 50 % No plan - Just climbing