Alfons Dornauer is in great shape having, the last week, done two 8B boulders in Zillertal and yesterday he did Reality Check 8c+ in Schleier Wasserfall. In the combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #8. Today he added The Source 8c+ in Zillertal to his impressive Tick list. "3rd go this year, had to brush the route at first, soo dirty!!! Conditions were perfect! One of the most stunning lines in the valley! MASTERPIECE!!!

Jan Hojer (6) GER - Juliane Wurm (3) GER Dima Sharafutdinov (5) RUS - Anna Stöhr (1) AUT Kilian Fischhuber (3) AUT - Akiyo Noguchi (6) JPN The fifth Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck was a great show on nice problems. Jan started first as he was sixth in the semifinal and secured the gold even if five climbers remained to try the last boulder. The same thing happened for the result of Dima and Juliane. It can be noted that during 2013, 40 % of the winners have actually started first in the final as his/her semi final results were the worst of all finalist. This relatively good results for the last ranked guys coming into the final, we have seen since 2007 and especially in the four last world championships.

Adam Ondra is on a two week bolting trip to Flatanger where he during two weeks hopes to bolt another ten routes out of five, which are probably in the 9b range. He brought a 150 m static rope and hopes that this will make it possible to bolt from the top using hooks the master the overhang. If I feel in good shape I hope to also make some FAs but the plan is to go back home and train hard and return to Flatanger later this summer. Norway is amazing during the summer and in the cave you can also climb when it rains. I have not been climbing for a week and I am super pshyched to rapel down and start projecting new amazing lines.

Based on 1 300 unique votes, "How do you climb/train?", we can see that the result is almost identical to a poll in 2009. This is interesting as we during the last few years have seen an increasing number of articles and discussion on 8a on how to train systematically. 09 % I follow a strict programme 41 % A bit of both 50 % No plan - Just climbing

On the ARk from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.