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The Game, 8C by Jon Cardwell

Jon Cardwell has done his first 8C and the third ascent of Daniel Woods' The Game in Boulder Canyon. His first 8B+ was Dreamtime which he did 2007 being 18 years old and that year he also did his first 8c+. Last autumn, Jon also showed being in his best endurance shape in his life doing two 9a's in Red River Gorge and onsights up to 8b+ and he is #4 in the 8a route game. Video on the Island

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Slovenia #1 in ECH in Munich

Slovenia, a country with just over 2 million inhabitants, was overall the best performing nation at the European Championship in Munich. Besides Janja Garnbret’s two gold medals, they had four more finalists out of which Luka Potocar placed second. Runner-up was France with five finalists including …

Mens' Top-8 into the Combined final

Mens' Top-8 into the Combined final

The male Combined finals will start on Thursday at 15.00 with Boulder followed by Lead at 17.00. (c) Petr Chodura 1. Adam Ondra CZE 690 + 1 000 = 1 690 2. Luka…

Womens' Top-8 Combined on Wednesday

Womens' Top-8 Combined on Wednesday

Based on the Combined "World Cup" points, the Top-8 females will compete in the new (Olympic) Combined format on Wednesday. If you have not participated in both…

Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Nicolai Uznik won by doing two boulders in six attempts out of which one flash. This was just one attempt less than Sam Avezou. In the live streaming they give …

Janja superior once again

Janja superior once again

Janja Garnbret climbed with ease passing Jessica Pilz high point. The biggest drama was actually Janja’s big whipper partly upside down, having done a big diago…

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Kruder's story of the Two Worlds

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Kruder's story of the Two Worlds

Jernej Kruder has written a blog about his first 8C ascent, The Story of Two Worlds. A video is coming out soon. How did you start it? The same as Graham, normal sit start with ass on the ground. I do not know what is the big deal of it anyway. I do not think that the different starts of Robinson and Koyamada change the grade. In the future, it would be nice to see people climb it like Dave did... natural sit start.

8C also by Dave Graham

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8C also by Dave Graham

Dave Graham has done the second ascent of Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon, 8C in Red Rocks which Paul thoughts was one of his best and hardest boulders in his life. The name comes from a basket ball player in Harlem Globetrotters and it finishes with a slam dunk move. Graham: "Meadowlark Lemon 8C was established by Paul Robinson, and its an incredible addition to our world of hard boulders! The rig is super proud; aesthetic, tall, and blank looking, I’m always really impressed when I stand undermeath it. After 6 days of battling with the strange valley conditions, learning the body positions, and gaining the snap necessary to execute the finicly toe hook lurp move, I managed to do it second try today."Alex Kahn has taken the picture of Pauls FA.

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Witness the Fitness, 8C 2013 by Daniel Woods

Daniel Woods has done the the third ascent of Chris Sharma's classic Witness the Fitness, 8C in Arkansas. Fred Nicole did the second ascent in 2006 despite several broken holds and since than more holds have broken."In its original state, I would guess it would be hard 8B, when Fred did it 8B+, and now it is 8C." Sharma said some years ago that it was the hardest and by far the coolest line he has seen in his life. Also Jimmy Webb and Paul Robinson came close to sending it and Paul reports. "It was amazing to watch. In it's current state it is 8A+ to 8B to a 7B+ finish. The day before Paul had done the first repeat of Dave Graham's Wood grain grippin' also after broken hold that made it to go from soft to hard 8B+.

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7C+ flash and 8A by Megan Mascarenas (15)

Megan Mascarenas has flashed Scare Tactics, 7C+ in Red Rocks. The 15 year old who started climbing 12 years ago has also done her fourth 8A by Show of Hands in Moe's Valley.

Two 8b+ OS by Stefano Ghisolfi (19)

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Two 8b+ OS by Stefano Ghisolfi (19)

Stefano Ghisolfi had a nice day in Montsant where he onsighted two 8b+, L-Mens and Falconetti. Two days previously, he onsighted his first 8b, Photo-Shoot in Margalef. The 19 year old Italian is a succesful competition climber who was #3 in the World Cup in China last year.