LATEST NEWS

Megos doing Samfaina 9a (+) and comments by Sharma

Chris Sharma put up Samfaina as a 9a in 2010 and then Ramon Julian Puigblanque repeated it rather quickly confirming the grade. The second repeat was done by Jorge Diaz-Rullo last year suggesting 9a+ which also Alex Megos now has done.

La Rustica 8C by Dave Graham (40)

La Rustica 8C by Dave Graham (40)

Dave Graham reports on Insta that he last month did La Rustica 8C in Valle Bavona. It was put up by James Webb in 2013 and all the previous handful repeaters have given it five stars and Dave comments, "potentially the most aesthetic climb in Bavona."

"After about 6 sessions trying about 200 times per session from the start I managed to do the pocket move but quickly slipped off the middle section. Over the next 4 sessions I proceeded to fall off the final move to the jug 3 times 😵‍💫 As it was intensive for my left leg I spaced my sessions about 10 days apart."

This was the 40-year-old's four 8C during the last five months and actually his last three years have been his best ever. Last month we asked him, How can you still progress after 20+ years as a pro climber?
I feel stronger honestly! 😅😅😅, 🤔🤔🤔. Not sure why?? Maybe smarter??? Healthier lifestyle. Ah just eating better, no partying, lots of good rest!! Better attitude about climbing, more patient and also less concerned with conditions. Always finding new solutions, not getting angry. In the past, I would get much more frustrated when I would fail or not do well. These days I think I'm so used to failing that I'm surprised when I succeed. I do boulders that are really my antistyle too. So I assume they should be hard but I think it really helped my mental game, to push longer and harder. Never get pissed, it is not wise!!! I am feeling strong!! But four months of trying hard has been tough, I took the last two weeks kind of easy as the weather was finally bad 😅🤣

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Advertorial: For the SS2022 collection, La Sportiva releases the new version of the Katana Laces shoe, which enriches the climbing category and is presented as …

Lena Müller "ecopoints" 350 km on a bike to climb two dream cracks

Last year, we made an interview with Lena Müller and the ecological crises. She is currently doing a PhD at the University of Innsbruck about the effects of climate change on mountain ecosystems. In the documentary video she takes her bike 350 km to climb two dream cracks.

Janja trains almost only on a spraywall

"I do 95 % of the training on the wall. I am not doing any finger boarding. I am not doing any fitness. I am training six times a week for four hours on the spray wall and that is it. I kept repeating to myself, "if I am not having fun, then I will not win". It is as simple as that." Janja also thin…

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Advertorial: Another Play in Paradise is a spicy route, one of 129 that traverse the south-facing slopes of the Lienz Dolomites in 5 sectors ranging in difficul…

MORE NEWS

Catxasa 9a+ by Mateusz Haladaj

Catxasa 9a+ by Mateusz Haladaj

Mateusz Haladaj has done Catxasa (9a+) in Santa Linya. "Epic journey with this one. So close last year, this time unexpected. Steep, Savage, Complex, Hard, Love it!" (c) Zac Moss

The 36-year-old reports on Insta that he was very close sending first three yeears ago and then again last year, when he did the easier variation Catxasita (9a). In total, the Pole has done some 15 routes 9a and harder.

Rock and Comp success for Jenya Kazbekova

Rock and Comp success for Jenya Kazbekova

Jenya Kazbekova was #4 in the Brixen EC. She started off with three straight flashes and then she needed seven tries to make the first move and top out also the last boulder. Super impressive as her preparation was a 2-weeks trip to Siurana, where the Ukrainian onsighted two 8a+, flashed Sentimental 8b+, on 2nd go did Directa Jabali and redpointed Pati Noso 8c/+.

How was this record tick list possible?
Winter training pays off if you go rock climbing mid comp season👍🏼

How was the feeling starting the last boulder as you know that you could win?
I knew that the last boulder would be the deciding one. Jumps were never my strong side, and I wasn't as confident as on the first three, I think that influenced my performance a lot. The jump itself wasn't too hard, just coordination, unfortunately, it took me too many tries to get the feeling for it.

Which comps do you plan to do in 2022 and what are your ambitions?
Pretty much all the comps until Villars, then World games, maybe can squeeze in some rock climbing afterwards and then EU Championship in Munich. After that only rock climbing😊. Ambitions, show my best for my country and my people💙💛

Grossman and Fujii win spectacular show in Seoul

Natalia Grossman from the USA won each stage in the Boulder World Cup in Seoul, topping out all 13 boulders. Oriane Bertone from France got the silver and Brooke Raboutou from the USA the bronze. Complete female results. (c) Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

Among the male, Kokoro Fujii did all four boulders in 11 attempts meanwhile Tomoa Narasaki needed one more attempt. The last boulder Narasaki did on his fourth try which also was the first time he made the zone. Yoshiyuki Ogata, who was in the lead before the last boulder which he could not do, got the bronze. Noteworthy is that Japan had five in the Top-6 final and France had two Top-7. Complete male results

Japan dominate in Seoul

Japan dominate in Seoul

Japan had nine men competing in the qualification round of the Boulder WC in Seoul and eight qualified for the semi-final. The lowest ranking of the nine placeded 21st, thus missing the semi by just one spot. Tomoa Narasaki was #10 and had five others from Japan in front of him. France had three men qualify in the Top-6 and a handful of stars like Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert chose to not travel to Seoul and take part. Complete results
(c) Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

In the absence of Janja Garnbret, Natalia Grossman won the qualification ahead of Stasa Gejo, Camilla Moroni and Oriane Bertone. The big names that did not make it to the Top-20 semifinal were; Fanny Gibert, Chaehyun Seo and Mia Krampl. Complete results

El Intento 8c+/9a by Ana Belen Argudo

El Intento 8c+/9a by Ana Belen Argudo

Ana Belen Argudo reports on Insta that she has done El Intento 8c+/9a in Cuenca. In total she needed some 24 tries spread over a dozen days. (c) Javi Pec

The 20-year-old started projecting it one month ago directly after she did her first 9a, commenting. "I will go for routes that inspire and challenge me and I will try to leave nice footage that could inspire the next generation. This is just starting."

5.17 and 6.64 are the new Speed WR

5.17 and 6.64 are the new Speed WR

In the Speed qualification in Seoul, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia and Alexsandra Miroslaw from Poland set new Speed World records with 5.17 and 6.64 respectively. Miroslaw continued winning the female division at the same time Katibin made a false start in the final which made, the previous world record holder Veddriq Leonardo, from Indonesia, win the gold. It should be mentioned that first, both made a false start so they had to race again. Also, the race of the bronze was a bit anticlimax when Rahmad Badi, also from Indonesia, won as his opponent Lodovico Fossali was unfortunate to fall. Complete results